Ignitionswitch voltages question (1969)

[Stargazer]

Guys, car functions fine, runs and starts good. Except for a small problem when running on LPG. I won’t bother you with that.

But because of that problem, I measured power at the ignitionswitch. And I wonder if the voltages it shows are normal.
The red wire shows a nice 12,36volts. With the key in “RUN” the blue wire shows 11,35volts, but the brown (start) wire also shows 5,35volts when in “RUN”. Is that normal, should the brown wire not show 0 volts when key is in “RUN”?

With the key in “Start”, de brown start wire (only) gets 8,08volts. Cars starts fine though.

Are these voltages normal, or is the ignitionswitch bad?

 

[3175375]

Boy, those numbers sound low. You may want to consider contacting Craig @mobileparts for a replacement ignition switch. I purchased one from him for Shamu, my 69 Fury III vert that solved my issue.

 

[Stargazer]

Boy, those numbers sound low. You may want to consider contacting Craig @mobileparts for a replacement ignition switch. I purchased one from him for Shamu, my 69 Fury III vert that solved my issue.

I may do that, thanks!

 

[mobileparts]

One year only --- 1969 Only --- Ignition Switch & Ignition Tumbler with 2 (Mopar) keys.... I reproduced them ......

Too bad you didn't do this last month !! My friend of 35 years, Adrie was here at HERSHEY, Pa. For the # 1 Car Show & Swap Meet.... from the Netherlands .... he could have brought them back for you....

I can ship to the Netherlands.....
The Ignition Switch is $ 69.00.
The Ignition Tumbler is $ 69.00.
Plus Actual shipping......

Craig....P.M. me, if interested....

 

[Stargazer]

One year only --- 1969 Only --- Ignition Switch & Ignition Tumbler with 2 (Mopar) keys.... I reproduced them ......

Too bad you didn't do this last month !! My friend of 35 years, Adrie was here at HERSHEY, Pa. For the # 1 Car Show & Swap Meet.... from the Netherlands .... he could have brought them back for you....

I can ship to the Netherlands.....
The Ignition Switch is $ 69.00.
The Ignition Tumbler is $ 69.00.
Plus Actual shipping......

Craig....P.M. me, if interested....

That is too bad Craig! Should I need another one and not find it here, I will definitly contact you.

 

[mobileparts]

Stargazer,
Shipping to the Netherlands , for anything under 2 pounds , is
$ 31.50….
PayPal fee is 4 %…..

So, if you want just the Ignition Switch , it would be
$ 69.00 + $ 31.50 + $ 4.08 === $ 104.58 , we will make
that === >>> $ 100.00. Total…

If you want the Ignition Switch and Ignition Tumbler, it would be
$ 138.00 + $ 31.50 + $ 6.78 === $ 176.38 , we will make
that ===>>> $ 165.00. Total…

Craig…..

 

[Stargazer]

Stargazer,
Shipping to the Netherlands , for anything under 2 pounds , is
$ 31.50….
PayPal fee is 4 %…..

So, if you want just the Ignition Switch , it would be
$ 69.00 + $ 31.50 + $ 4.08 === $ 104.58 , we will make
that === >>> $ 100.00. Total…

If you want the Ignition Switch and Ignition Tumbler, it would be
$ 138.00 + $ 31.50 + $ 6.78 === $ 176.38 , we will make
that ===>>> $ 165.00. Total…

Craig…..

Thanks for all this Information Craig. Good offer. When needed, I will let you know.

 

[Turboomni]

Get the Tumbler and the ignition switch. I just did for my 69 Fury. mobileparts is top notch

 

[thethee]

Little late to the party but as shipping is expensive I tend to triple check before I commit to new parts. And I think your ignition switch might actually be functioning properly.

If I'm not mistaken, the brown and blue wire are connected to each other through the ballast resistor. With the key in the "run" position, power is fed through the BR to the brown wire, which is then backfed to the ignition switch. So no, you shouldn't have 0V at the switch.

I suspect your voltage drop issues are actually "downstream" of the ignition switch. Have you checked the resistance across the terminals of the ignition switch with a multimeter? With the switch disconnected? If in the "run" position it shows near 0 ohm from red prong to blue prong and in the "start" position it shows near 0 ohm from the red prong to the brown prong I'd say it should be good.

 

[mobileparts]

Actually, thethee, Stargazer is in the Netherlands as are you —- you guys should get to know each other……it would be funny if you guys are somewhat near each other !!!

Shipping is only $ 31.50 , so it is not much of a factor….
( they don’t weigh that much…)

I wonder if you guys know Adrie deVries from the Netherlands —- he is a Great Guy —- he has a 1959 Chrysler, a 1937 Studebaker, and a few other American cars… He comes to Fall Carlisle and HERSHEY every year for the last 35 years ( except during Covid and travel restrictions…)

 

[Stargazer]

Little late to the party but as shipping is expensive I tend to triple check before I commit to new parts. And I think your ignition switch might actually be functioning properly.

If I'm not mistaken, the brown and blue wire are connected to each other through the ballast resistor. With the key in the "run" position, power is fed through the BR to the brown wire, which is then backfed to the ignition switch. So no, you shouldn't have 0V at the switch.

I suspect your voltage drop issues are actually "downstream" of the ignition switch. Have you checked the resistance across the terminals of the ignition switch with a multimeter? With the switch disconnected? If in the "run" position it shows near 0 ohm from red prong to blue prong and in the "start" position it shows near 0 ohm from the red prong to the brown prong I'd say it should be good.

Thanks for the input! I agree. Research before buying new
parts, I learned my lessons.
I think I finally solved the problem. The troublesome LPG electrics where powered from the low voltage brown “START” wire, coming from the ignitionswitch. I changed that to the blue “RUN” wire, with enough voltage. Did a test drive, and the car runs great on both gasoline and LPG now. Also did alot of measuring like you mention, resistance etc. The ignitionswitch showed a little resistance but not much. Found a topic about how to open up the non servicable ignitionswitch and opened it up, and cleaned all contacts and connectors. No resistance anymore. Some wires from the switch up had been cut up in several pieces somewhere in time. Improved that as well.
ps. The problem was; while running on LPG, headlights on, transmission in Drive or Reverse, engine stumbles and dies. Looking back, the low voltage feeding a LPG relay, closed LPG supply to carb.

 

[Stargazer]

Actually, thethee, Stargazer is in the Netherlands as are you —- you guys should get to know each other……it would be funny if you guys are somewhat near each other !!!

Shipping is only $ 31.50 , so it is not much of a factor….
( they don’t weigh that much…)

I wonder if you guys know Adrie deVries from the Netherlands —- he is a Great Guy —- he has a 1959 Chrysler, a 1937 Studebaker, and a few other American cars… He comes to Fall Carlisle and HERSHEY every year for the last 35 years ( except during Covid and travel restrictions…)

Such a small country, but still 17 million people. So I never met these guys ;-).

 

[thethee]

Shipping is only $ 31.50 , so it is not much of a factor….
( they don’t weigh that much…)

Yeah this time it's reasonable but it's still a lot if you end up not needing the part is all I'm saying.

 

[thethee]

Thanks for the input! I agree. Research before buying new
parts, I learned my lessons.
I think I finally solved the problem. The troublesome LPG electrics where powered from the low voltage brown “START” wire, coming from the ignitionswitch. I changed that to the blue “RUN” wire, with enough voltage. Did a test drive, and the car runs great on both gasoline and LPG now. Also did alot of measuring like you mention, resistance etc. The ignitionswitch showed a little resistance but not much. Found a topic about how to open up the non servicable ignitionswitch and opened it up, and cleaned all contacts and connectors. No resistance anymore. Some wires from the switch up had been cut up in several pieces somewhere in time. Improved that as well.
ps. The problem was; while running on LPG, headlights on, transmission in Drive or Reverse, engine stumbles and dies. Looking back, the low voltage feeding a LPG relay, closed LPG supply to carb.

Excellent!
I know LPG can be tricky to deal with, I've been messing with my setup for a long time.