Is the 1961 Imperial power steering box the same as used in the 1961 Newport?

Treozen

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Hello folks -

I'm building the list of things my '61 Newport will need, but first among them really is a new / rebuilt power steering box. There is 5+ inches of free play at the wheel and this is with no movement of the pitment arm - so the slop is in the box or in the way the shaft connects to the box - but I don't see a way to adjust that. I did try adjust the box by adjusting the lash on the gearing - I turned the adjuster through almost a full turn+ (way too much) testing in between times, and there was very little if any perceptible change - except that you could hear the pump was less happy and the wheel didn't return to center - so It was obviously doing something, but not the right something. I set the lash back to a more reasonable adjustment, but it didn't seem to make any difference anyway.

I've found rebuilt boxes form a few sources, but often they indicate "Imperial" and don't offer anything specific for a Newport or 300. I did find the same unit elsewhere listed for just any 1961 - 1964 Chrysler, but would like to be sure before ordering.

This is also a job I've not done, and it looks annoying, especially since it looks like the cross rams, master cylinder and booster may all need to come out if the box comes out through the top (a video I watched said it does).

Thanks,
Allan.
 
Looking at the copy of the parts interchange I have, the answer is no, they do not interchange.

Get a downloadable copy of the parts interchange here: Parts Manuals – MyMopar Go the bottom group and download the '50-65 parts interchange book.
 
The adjustment you made did not affect what you wanted it to affect, which is why it did not return to center as easily as it should. What do you see on the input side of the gear? Or at the bottom of the steering column jacket and the coupling there?

It could well be the differences in the gearboxes are in how they mount to the stub frame, rather than what's inside of them.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Looking at the copy of the parts interchange I have, the answer is no, they do not interchange.

Get a downloadable copy of the parts interchange here: Parts Manuals – MyMopar Go the bottom group and download the '50-65 parts interchange book.
Thank you for that. It seems that there is a collar of sorts that is a few inches longer at the input shaft - I found a site that differentiates between the long and short collar, though it doesn't explain which one is for which model in 1961 - 1964. I may just reach out to Firm Feel - they are a Mopar specialist and right here in Washington.
The adjustment you made did not affect what you wanted it to affect, which is why it did not return to center as easily as it should. What do you see on the input side of the gear? Or at the bottom of the steering column jacket and the coupling there?

It could well be the differences in the gearboxes are in how they mount to the stub frame, rather than what's inside of them.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Yes, I knew it would eventually fail to return to center - but for the purposes of making sure I'd adjusted enough, I figured that if I got that far and still no noticeable difference, then that would effectively eliminate gear lash as the primary issue.

I'll need to get a helper and a better look at what's happening - what I do know is that there is no movement at the output shaft over that 5 inches of free play. I have just learned however that there seems to be a rubber isolator that basically sandwiches the end of the steering shaft where it slides into the box coupler - if that rubber part were say missing, or so badly worn that it may as well be, I bet you'd get a few inches of play - so that's the next investigation that I'll do tomorrow - fingers crossed too, because replacing the rubber isolator would be about 300% easier and 4000% less cost ;-)
 
What you adjusted was not the only adjustment, just the one most people are aware of as it has the threaded stud and lock nut. The OTHER adjustment is on the input side of the gear. With your helper turning the steering wheel from center, with the car parked, you can see an in and out reaction to the steering shaft being turned BEFORE anything happens inside the gear.

You can also see what appears to be a large spanner nut of sorts. That is where that adjustment is done with a special tool. From the steering wheel side of things, that movement from wear can be mistaken for "lash" when it is not. It is wear on that upper bushing.

At the bottom of the steering column, too, can be a "plunge joint". Kind of oblong and rectangular in shape. Inside of it are some items which can deteiorate and wear. There is a rebuild kit for that.

Then, there can be the official "rag joint", which looks like a section of tire sidewall in a circular piece with holes drilled in it. Road isolation is its purpose.

Look in the Chrysler Parts Manual to see what Imperials have on them as sometimes they can be a separate breed of automobile from normal Chryslers. www.mymopar.com

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67
 
I am following this thread with great interest, as my ‘61 newport with power steering has excessive play between the steering wheel and the pitman arm. I have placed the car on jack stands and it will stay there until I am able to figure this out.

It is very difficult for me to see exactly how the “flexible coupling” works in this particular design, without pulling the steering box out- there is no rag joint, but the service manual shows a coupling, and I was wondering if (when worn/aged) the coupling will produce slop, and if so, where to find a new one.

I am new here. Any help is appreciated. Hours on the internet has turned up nothing.

Thanks,
Dave

Pic below is me prepping to remove the steering box/inspect the flexible coupling.

C1043BA0-9236-4FD5-BFEF-EAF81B675AF7.jpeg
 
This is what rock auto shows for interchange, I just did the box on my 64 880 from firm feel. The steering shaft is one piece from the steering wheel splines to the box. There is a snap ring at the top of column bearing that needs to be removed, there is also a large clamp at the base of steering column, and a large dust boot once that is loose and the column support bracket under the dash is removed the outer jacket lifts up and out. shaft has a large cotter pin that goes thru the shaft and pins it the steering box shaft. This is like a knife and blade, there is a rubber insulter between the two which is available in reproduction. There is also a brass contact strip that is the ground for the horn button .

CHRYSLER3001958-1964
CHRYSLERIMPERIAL1958-1963
CHRYSLERNEW YORKER1958-1964
CHRYSLERNEWPORT1958-1964
CHRYSLERSARATOGA1958-1960
CHRYSLERTOWN & COUNTRY1958-1964
CHRYSLERWINDSOR1958-1961
DESOTOADVENTURER1958-1960
DESOTODESOTO1961
DESOTOFIREDOME1958-1959
DESOTOFIREFLITE1958-1960
DESOTOFIRESWEEP1958-1959
DODGE8801963-1964
DODGECORONET1958-1959
DODGECUSTOM1958-1959
DODGELANCER1958-1959
DODGEPOLARA1960-1961
DODGEROYAL1958-1959
DODGESIERRA1958-1959
DODGESUBURBAN1958
PLYMOUTHBELVEDERE1957-1959
PLYMOUTHCUSTOM1958
PLYMOUTHFURY1957-1961
PLYMOUTHPLAZA1957-1958
PLYMOUTHSAVOY1957-1961
PLYMOUTHSUBURBAN1957-1961
Please refer to catalog for application details.

1032-a.jpg
 
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Thank you very much for that info- that's going to help me get this box out of the car. I ordered the isolator from Andy's. I think I need to get a parts manual, as the service manual doesn't always give you everything you might need to see.

If the Newport power steering box fits that many models on yout list, that's a good thing for us!

Our Newport has suffered serious neglect by all of the prior owners- I'm going to have to pull the entire front suspension apart to replace every wear item, as well as the steering components. I've never seen a passenger car this bad... only farm trucks! It's the wife's car and she is scared to drive it right now.

Thanks again,
Dave
 
That does illustrate everything very well. Is that the parts manual or an assembly manual? I must get one!

Thanks,
Dave
 
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