1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
I received them yesterday. They are bare metal, so I am going to get POR15 black. Agree with asymmetrical shackles.
Leaf Spring Sag, 1970 Fury Convertible
- Thread starter 1970FuryConv
- Start date
Thank you, this is useful information. Something additional that I'll need to check before I choose between ESPO and Eaton. A few questions:
1. are the front bushings pressed in, or did you need to specify a request for that to be done?
2. did you buy shackles, or are you hoping to re-use yours? Laura at ESPO Springs'nThings told me yesterday that (i) they do not sell new shackles and (ii) they know of no one who makes them. William at Eaton has not yet responded to my inquiry on this specific topic.
3. if you got the install kit, do the U-bolts and whatever else you got look like it's what you need?
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
· ML725 leaf Springs: removed many stickers. Paint Prep: Razor blade paint/gasket scraper, Goo Gone, Marine Clean, rags. Liked these stickers
· POR 15: obtained a pint can of gloss black in the afternoon. Applied one coat to both Springs.
· IKCC1000: shackle/install kit. Eaton Shackles do not have wide upper offset and do not fit. Eaton sent straight shackles pictured in Galen's post above. Chrysler stopped using straight shackles in 1969. Called Mike at Eaton. Informed him that their online catalog listing is wrong for 1970 to 1973 C body cars. He will give partial credit because the shackles do not fit. I asked him to wait on that until we are sure the other parts fit.
He says our offset shackles (wider at top) are obsolete. Gave mine a 3rd coat of WD40 today.
Plan to install springs this weekend. Ben
Made in USA Love it!
WD-40 is not a good penetrating oil. I think you'll find that many will agree with me on that.
My preference is PB Blaster, but many others have favorites, including acetone and ATF.
BEST is just crack the nuts off with one of these and don't look back. Less than $20 at about any auto shop.
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
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I agree with Big John. This the WD-40 over your shoulder and get some PB Blaster or Sea Foam Deep Creep.
The nut buster is a good idea too. I've had one in my till box for close to 30 years.
The nut buster is a good idea too. I've had one in my till box for close to 30 years.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
1970 Fury III 440/727/8.75. Eaton Detroit Leaf Springs ML725 Installed with IKC1000 Install Kit
This is right side leaf spring. Left side is that same procedure.
· Lower shock: axle on jack stands. ¾”ls & gun to remove nut & curved washer. Rag around a Pipe to pry off shocks. Jacked axle off stands. Jackstands under rear subframe, wooden blocks to inside of opening to access front hanger nuts. Jack under axle at full extension down. Jackstand under RS axle. Keep right side from falling down.
· WD-40: all fasteners. I used 4 applications of WD-40 to all fasteners over 6 days prior to doing the job. Then I applied it before removing each fastener. In all deference to John @Big_John (who is very knowledgeable and whose advice I regularly seek out and who recommended PB Blaster & the nut buster) this car has been garage kept. There was no need for anything stronger than WD-40, so I went with Dave’s @polara71 recommendation of using WD-40. Also, WD-40 is just a magical chemical for taking squeak out of door hinges, making hood hinges open easily, getting nuts off rusty bolts, etc. As you will see, WD-40 worked out fine with this car. I’ll keep PB Blaster and the nut buster in mind for rustier situations.
· U-bolt nuts: with ¾” ls & impact gun. U-Bolt-Shock Plate: remove. U-bolts: remove. Note IKCC1000 U-bolts are 1.125” longer than factory and really need to be cut to be used on 1970 Fury suspension. My factory U-bolts were in good condition from when I added 3.23 sure grip 8.75” axle and recycled 8.25” axle in 2016. I reused the factory u-bolts.
· Rear Spring Hanger/Mount: remove 3 bolts: 9/16”ss, ½” bb & rat. Guide rear end of spring onto cardboard on floor. Front Spring Hanger/Mount: Remove 4 nuts holding the front spring mount, 9/16 ls, ½ R, 9/16 ls, 3/8 stub R. Removed upper nuts 1st. Hanger: push to rear & let down with the front of the spring. (Having an assistant helps)
· Front Spring Eye: Spring in vise. 15/16” ss & ½” bb & pipe on nut; 15/16” ls & ½ BB & pipe on bolt head. Remove nut & bolt. Compare to install kit bolt. OEM has larger bolt head. OEM has much more smooth surface and is 1/8” longer than the IKC1000 bolt. Very little of bolt extends out now. Did not like Eaton shorter bolt and coarse thread. Decided to reuse factory bolt and nut.
Front Hanger
Factory Spring Eye Bolt: Check out length beyond nut
Factory bolt below. Can't lose that 1/8"
· Rear Shackle: Place rear of spring in vise. 11/16” ls, ½ BB & R, remove both nuts. Slide offset bracket off of shackle. Slide shackle & hanger out of spring.
Spring Comparison
· IKC1000 install kit, bushings: springs are 2.5” wide. Bushings fit exactly at spring eye, even though the shackles are wrong, because of no offset. Upper bolt at rear hanger is wider. 2.5” bushings will leave gap of at least .75”. Need a center bushing to compensate. Left factory bushings in place because they felt tight and didn’t show much wear. You need bushings for the rear spring eye or you buy the $74.99 kit. I spoke on the phone with Mike at Eaton Detroit Springs about the shackles being wrong, but I need to update that information with the information that a set of bushings from the install kit must be supplied with the springs, or you can’t do the job.
Split bushings installed in rear spring eye
This is right side leaf spring. Left side is that same procedure.
· Lower shock: axle on jack stands. ¾”ls & gun to remove nut & curved washer. Rag around a Pipe to pry off shocks. Jacked axle off stands. Jackstands under rear subframe, wooden blocks to inside of opening to access front hanger nuts. Jack under axle at full extension down. Jackstand under RS axle. Keep right side from falling down.
· WD-40: all fasteners. I used 4 applications of WD-40 to all fasteners over 6 days prior to doing the job. Then I applied it before removing each fastener. In all deference to John @Big_John (who is very knowledgeable and whose advice I regularly seek out and who recommended PB Blaster & the nut buster) this car has been garage kept. There was no need for anything stronger than WD-40, so I went with Dave’s @polara71 recommendation of using WD-40. Also, WD-40 is just a magical chemical for taking squeak out of door hinges, making hood hinges open easily, getting nuts off rusty bolts, etc. As you will see, WD-40 worked out fine with this car. I’ll keep PB Blaster and the nut buster in mind for rustier situations.
· U-bolt nuts: with ¾” ls & impact gun. U-Bolt-Shock Plate: remove. U-bolts: remove. Note IKCC1000 U-bolts are 1.125” longer than factory and really need to be cut to be used on 1970 Fury suspension. My factory U-bolts were in good condition from when I added 3.23 sure grip 8.75” axle and recycled 8.25” axle in 2016. I reused the factory u-bolts.
· Rear Spring Hanger/Mount: remove 3 bolts: 9/16”ss, ½” bb & rat. Guide rear end of spring onto cardboard on floor. Front Spring Hanger/Mount: Remove 4 nuts holding the front spring mount, 9/16 ls, ½ R, 9/16 ls, 3/8 stub R. Removed upper nuts 1st. Hanger: push to rear & let down with the front of the spring. (Having an assistant helps)
· Front Spring Eye: Spring in vise. 15/16” ss & ½” bb & pipe on nut; 15/16” ls & ½ BB & pipe on bolt head. Remove nut & bolt. Compare to install kit bolt. OEM has larger bolt head. OEM has much more smooth surface and is 1/8” longer than the IKC1000 bolt. Very little of bolt extends out now. Did not like Eaton shorter bolt and coarse thread. Decided to reuse factory bolt and nut.
Front Hanger
Factory Spring Eye Bolt: Check out length beyond nut
Factory bolt below. Can't lose that 1/8"
· Rear Shackle: Place rear of spring in vise. 11/16” ls, ½ BB & R, remove both nuts. Slide offset bracket off of shackle. Slide shackle & hanger out of spring.
Spring Comparison
· IKC1000 install kit, bushings: springs are 2.5” wide. Bushings fit exactly at spring eye, even though the shackles are wrong, because of no offset. Upper bolt at rear hanger is wider. 2.5” bushings will leave gap of at least .75”. Need a center bushing to compensate. Left factory bushings in place because they felt tight and didn’t show much wear. You need bushings for the rear spring eye or you buy the $74.99 kit. I spoke on the phone with Mike at Eaton Detroit Springs about the shackles being wrong, but I need to update that information with the information that a set of bushings from the install kit must be supplied with the springs, or you can’t do the job.
Split bushings installed in rear spring eye
I've used the new, shorter bushings, without problem in the longer shackle.
If you feel that you need to, buy another pair and cut them down to a 3/4" tube to fill in the center, or you could even cut the old ones up.
Also, be sure not to finish tightening the bolts for the spring eyes and shackles (except the u bolts) until it's all in place and weight is on the wheels. That saves any extra stress on the rubber... Yea, I know... The pros will tell you it doesn't make a difference and ten guys will say that they don't.... But then you will read about how the rubber bushings didn't last etc.
If you feel that you need to, buy another pair and cut them down to a 3/4" tube to fill in the center, or you could even cut the old ones up.
Also, be sure not to finish tightening the bolts for the spring eyes and shackles (except the u bolts) until it's all in place and weight is on the wheels. That saves any extra stress on the rubber... Yea, I know... The pros will tell you it doesn't make a difference and ten guys will say that they don't.... But then you will read about how the rubber bushings didn't last etc.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Rear hanger bolt wider than IKC1000 Shackle
· Hangers & Shackle: clean on wire wheel, then CRC Brake Clean. 2 coats POR15 Gloss Black.
Front Hanger
Rear
· Clamp rear of new spring in vise. 2 sides of rubber bushing in rear spring eye. Wider stud of shackle is inside hanger. Smaller stud goes in spring eye. Mount smaller side of shackle by hand. Flat side of shackle faces outside of car. Rear Shackle Offset Bracket facing interior: 11/16” ls, 3/8 TW & install nuts. 40’lbs.
Offset plate installed
· Clamp front of new spring in vise, towel in vise. Front Spring Eye Hanger/Mount: 15/16” ss & ½” torque wrench on nut & 15/16” ls, ½ BB, pipe on bolt, which assistant braced against vise: 125’lbs
· Spring under car. Slide on cardboard
· Front spring hanger/mount: 4 nuts @30’lbs, 9/16 ls, 3/8 air ratchet, 3/8 TW
· Hangers & Shackle: clean on wire wheel, then CRC Brake Clean. 2 coats POR15 Gloss Black.
Front Hanger
Rear
· Clamp rear of new spring in vise. 2 sides of rubber bushing in rear spring eye. Wider stud of shackle is inside hanger. Smaller stud goes in spring eye. Mount smaller side of shackle by hand. Flat side of shackle faces outside of car. Rear Shackle Offset Bracket facing interior: 11/16” ls, 3/8 TW & install nuts. 40’lbs.
Offset plate installed
· Clamp front of new spring in vise, towel in vise. Front Spring Eye Hanger/Mount: 15/16” ss & ½” torque wrench on nut & 15/16” ls, ½ BB, pipe on bolt, which assistant braced against vise: 125’lbs
· Spring under car. Slide on cardboard
· Front spring hanger/mount: 4 nuts @30’lbs, 9/16 ls, 3/8 air ratchet, 3/8 TW
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
· Rear Spring Hanger/Mount: Asst helped push up rear of spring. Install 3 bolts: 9/16”ss, 3/8 stub R, 3/8 Air ratchet, & 3/8 torque wrench @ 30’lbs
· Install u-bolts on plate. Shock mount to inside rear. ¾”ls & 3/8 AR, 3/8 torque wrench @ 45’lbs. I like the factory U-bolt length and this proves that you can use them on 5 or 6 leaf springs. My 50 year-old springs were 5-leaf to match 318. New springs are 6-leaf stock height to match 440.
· POR 15 gloss black, later dabbed on installed exposed fasteners
RS Spring installed
Springs are same both sides
Front Hangers look same. Left side
· Rear shackle is mirror image of right side, with offset again to inside. Could be all the same parts, but with shackle offset reversed.
Springs installed
· Install u-bolts on plate. Shock mount to inside rear. ¾”ls & 3/8 AR, 3/8 torque wrench @ 45’lbs. I like the factory U-bolt length and this proves that you can use them on 5 or 6 leaf springs. My 50 year-old springs were 5-leaf to match 318. New springs are 6-leaf stock height to match 440.
· POR 15 gloss black, later dabbed on installed exposed fasteners
RS Spring installed
Springs are same both sides
Front Hangers look same. Left side
· Rear shackle is mirror image of right side, with offset again to inside. Could be all the same parts, but with shackle offset reversed.
Springs installed
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
· Before: Measure garage floor to lower edge of Pinch weld behind front tires 9” both sides. Pinch weld in front of rear tires 8 3/8” both sides
· After: Distance to bottom of pinch weld about 10” front and back. Need to remeasure, but I was running out of daylight.
· Test Drive: Drive quality vastly improved. Handling was sloppy and bouncy before. No longer the case. Car feels much tighter. Eaton Detroit ML725 Springs A+ (Made in Detroit USA A++). Install kit IKC1000: used 2 sets of bushings for the rear spring eyes. Saved second set of bushings for another car. Rear shackles do not have offset and are wrong for 1970 and later rear spring hangers. Front spring eye bolts were 1/8” too short, coarse thread, not enough smooth surface. U-bolts were 1 1/8” too long. Needed to be cut, new ends beveled, threads trued with die. Overall, love the Made in USA Springs. $741 including Fedex ship was money well spent.
Some pics
Test Drive: Sunset on white paint
Quarter shot. Stance dramatically improved
Rear level
Eaton Springs: recommended
· After: Distance to bottom of pinch weld about 10” front and back. Need to remeasure, but I was running out of daylight.
· Test Drive: Drive quality vastly improved. Handling was sloppy and bouncy before. No longer the case. Car feels much tighter. Eaton Detroit ML725 Springs A+ (Made in Detroit USA A++). Install kit IKC1000: used 2 sets of bushings for the rear spring eyes. Saved second set of bushings for another car. Rear shackles do not have offset and are wrong for 1970 and later rear spring hangers. Front spring eye bolts were 1/8” too short, coarse thread, not enough smooth surface. U-bolts were 1 1/8” too long. Needed to be cut, new ends beveled, threads trued with die. Overall, love the Made in USA Springs. $741 including Fedex ship was money well spent.
Some pics
Test Drive: Sunset on white paint
Quarter shot. Stance dramatically improved
Rear level
Eaton Springs: recommended
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