Leaf spring spreader tool

[monaco75]

Did the springs on my ‘75 Monaco without any stretcher or special tools... Came apart without loosing any limbs lol.

I used a ratchet strap during re-assembly. I attached the rear of the springs first and pulled the front up to be bolted in place.

 

[BLUESMOBILEPERTH]

Sorry been a bit busy. Here are the photos of the spreader tool I made. As per the above posts don't attempt to remove the spring without a tool.

 

[1970cat]

so, it looks like you are pulling the spring to lengthen it so the upper bolts line up? did you need it for removal and installation?
looks like a well made tool.

 

[polara71]

am I looking at? I've replaced 5-6 sets of springs Why would one need this ?

 

[saylor]

my moneys on the shitposting aussie.

give em hell mate good on ya

 

[65sporty]

I do like the fact that you used some ingenuity and made a tool that the FSM said you needed, but like I have said and others have also said it can be done without it. I can't count the number of springs I have changed without a special tool as I work as a Auto Mechanic. What matters is you got it done and are happy with the results.

 

[BLUESMOBILEPERTH]

As per my previous post it only applies to 75 - 78 C bodies so if you have never unbolted the springs on one of those models then you haven't needed the tool. If you have a workshop manual you can verify it yourself.... not sure why there are so many disbelievers on this forum who think they know everything. Will be my last post on the subject.

 

[mr. fix it]

As per my previous post it only applies to 75 - 78 C bodies so if you have never unbolted the springs on one of those models then you haven't needed the tool. If you have a workshop manual you can verify it yourself.... not sure why there are so many disbelievers on this forum who think they know everything. Will be my last post on the subject.

I can't speak for anyone here but I have tried to keep an open mind on most subjects having been out of the trade for many years.

A lot of experience is here on the boards and we have found many ways around the factory tools required.

Only hands on experience will tell who is correct.
If we do see posts showing members that have lost fingers or broken bones will be able to act as a testimony to who is correct in the long run.

 

[commando1]

As per my previous post it only applies to 75 - 78 C bodies so if you have never unbolted the springs on one of those models then you haven't needed the tool. I

Still..

 

[polara71]

As per my previous post it only applies to 75 - 78 C bodies so if you have never unbolted the springs on one of those models then you haven't needed the tool. If you have a workshop manual you can verify it yourself.... not sure why there are so many disbelievers on this forum who think they know everything. Will be my last post on the subject.

The factory manual specifies special tools for many jobs.
The torsion bar removal tool for example . I don't have one but this board suggested they'll slide out with a,twist and a tug, they did.
Some don't have a pickle fork and would rather use a hammer.
How many here have a press but improvise without it....?
So good for you on your high horse, you've been very helpful to those of us that have asked why.

 

[78Brougham]

Looks like you're working on a 4 post lift and have a jack or you're supporting the rear axle under the drum with something. I wouldn't recommend doing that. It can cause all kinds of problems.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Looks like you're working on a 4 post lift and have a jack or you're supporting the rear axle under the drum with something. I wouldn't recommend doing that. It can cause all kinds of problems.

I don't think he has the rearend supported in anyway, hence the need for the tool. I can see the reason/benefit of the tool now with pictures. There must be a lot of arch in those formal springs due to weight. The front springs on my 85 Pete are a stack and a crazy arch you will never see unless it comes off the ground, but made it difficult to get the shackle side bars to the pin, bottle Jack and a C clamp got me lined up. It's just different approaches.
Just like transmissions and all their "special tools" that I'm not buying because I do one every 10 years.

 

[rags]

not something that i would do, but on it's merits: it's an easy tool to build with scraps from under the chop saw bench and it works perfect for the application. i can't argue with that. thanks for posting.

 

[cantflip]

1- disconnect shocks, bust all the u bolts loose or off, jack stands or lift under frame...
2- disconnect drive shaft, park brake cables and brake hose (probably due for replacement anyhow)...
3- disconnect rear hangers, then front hangers... and roll the assembly out from under the car so you can work on it nicely...
4- after replacement parts are installed, wheel back under the car and reconnect front hangers...
5- use floor jack under the differential to raise the assembly until the hangers line up... if gravity isn't holding the car well enough, use jack stands or blocks under the front frame rails... use thin wood or sheet metal to allow the rear hangers to slide if you don't want to gouge the undercoating...
6- gravity is your friend, use the floor jack to control the effects while lining up bolt holes... tiny movements...
7- reinstall whats left, good time for a new brake hose that never gets replaced and was likely too brittle to move out of it's normal travel range... good time for u-joints too...
8- Not an aluminum driveshaft... you can buy a ball joint press and maybe a couple of sockets to replace them, there is a special press available if you like to spend money, or you could use a hammer and vise like flat-rate techs did to knock the job out in 10 minutes or less...

Now if you really want to work extra hard... do it all hanging in the air... but I never saw anybody with half a brain try that...

Moral of this story... come on in, ask your questions, but when you act like a dick to the first folks who want to help you... many of us are just going to sit back and enjoy the show. Just so that you know, everyone who replied to this thread has done this job, even on the elusive 74-78 C-Body (it's a car, not a spaceship... ).

 

[bluefury361]

The only time I ever needed to use a spring spreader tool was to install the front and rear transverse leaf springs on 30's/40's Fords.

 

[rags]

I used a ratchet strap during re-assembly.

this would have been my preferred solution. loop the strap around the impact absorber for the bumper, hook it to the spring bracket and ratchet the bracket backwards into place. my thanks to @monaco75 for the suggestion.