Lower Control Arm

[SF-66TC]

I'm having a hard time envisioning where the Lower Control Arm Bushing is installed.

Does anyone have a photo of a Lower Control Arm out of a car?

Looking at my LCA and comparing it to a photo I saw it looks like the Tortion Bar fits through a sleeve of some sort and on through the cross member where it is locked down by a nut and cotter pin - but I don't see where the bushing is.

As far as the STRUT ROD, I can only see it goes into the LCA, but I don't see a sleever there as well.

Can someone clarify - I'm more of a visual person so if you have a photo that would be most helpful.

Thanks in advance!

 

[MrMoparCHP]

It is between the pivot shaft and the control arm

Alan

 

[SF-66TC]

Thanks Alan - as they say, "a picture says a thousand words". I thought the Tortion Bar fed all the way through the cross-member when in fact the pivot shaft (which is a separate piece) feeds into the LCA Bushing and through the cross-member. I didn't know that BOTH Tortion Bar ends were keyed. Now it makes perfect sense as can be seen in the LEFT LCA pictured.

For Clarification: as far as the LCA bushing, does it feed into the thick TB collar? The bushing that I have appears fairly LONG (photo below) and looks to be somewhat longer than the width of the LCA itself.

It is between the pivot shaft and the control arm

Alan

 

[MrMoparCHP]

The pivot is pressed into the bushing on the end with the flange
the bushing is pressed into the control arm.

I had this done as it requires a press, I don't recall the sequence.

The pivots were masked off before I blasted the arms, the shoulder you see is part of the pivot as is the 3/8" or so you see past it.


Alan

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Go through the hex T-bar socket and press pivot out of center. Peel the rubber out then throw some washers in the sleeve remaining in the arm (biggest diameter that will fit) then with a chisel/air chisel fold over the edges of the outer sleeve to capture the washers. Then going back though T-bar socket put something in to press the washers and the sleeve out. You get your washers back.
To reassemble press pivot into bushing (a washer under the inner sleeve helps not strain the rubber). Then using a piece of pipe (to not press on the pivot/rubber) press outer sleeve into the control arm.

 

[330dTA]

This Mopar Muscle article might come in handy:

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassi...front-suspensions-lower-control-arm-bushings/

Regards, J

 

[SF-66TC]

That's a GREAT LINK J - Thanks so much! Being more of a visual person those pics totally map out the procedure. :yourock:

This Mopar Muscle article might come in handy:

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassi...front-suspensions-lower-control-arm-bushings/

Regards, J

 

[SF-66TC]

Great description 70bigblockdodge (Dave?) Seeing the pics from 330dTA's link sheds light on what you were describing especially ONLY if one doesn't have access to a welder.

Go through the hex T-bar socket and press pivot out of center. Peel the rubber out then throw some washers in the sleeve remaining in the arm (biggest diameter that will fit) then with a chisel/air chisel fold over the edges of the outer sleeve to capture the washers. Then going back though T-bar socket put something in to press the washers and the sleeve out. You get your washers back.
To reassemble press pivot into bushing (a washer under the inner sleeve helps not strain the rubber). Then using a piece of pipe (to not press on the pivot/rubber) press outer sleeve into the control arm.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Besides I am a cheap *** and I want my washers back.

 

[SF-66TC]

This Mopar Muscle article might come in handy:

Replacing Front Suspension's Lower Control-Arm Bushing - Mopar Muscle Magazine

Regards, J

Finally getting it together - slowly, but surely -

I think I needed some new LCA bushings... you think

33dta's Mopar Muscle article worked perfect! Thanks Jaakko!

New bushing installed!

LCA's degreased & etched

LCA's POR15 along with rest of suspension parts

Beginning of re-installation YAY!

 

[cantflip]

Finally getting it together - slowly, but surely -

I think I needed some new LCA bushings... you think

Nice work there... at the age of these cars, I would think the majority have had or need new bushings. It always amazed me how often these kind of things are overlooked even in shops. Now your alignment will hold true and you will notice the feel of the car improve significantly.

 

[commando1]

People alway move bushings to the bottom of the needs list.
Most neglected item on any car.

 

[SF-66TC]

People alway move bushings to the bottom of the needs list.
Most neglected item on any car.

Yeah, I originally felt the same way commando1. When I did my front disc conversion I only changed (1) Ball Joint, the idler arm and tie rods. I really didn't want to think about changing the LCA or strut rod bushings due to the amount of work involved, but I came to my senses when I decided to upgrade to the tubular control arms. I figured if I was going to go that far I might as well go for it, but I still didn't want to do it myself. So I went to a friends shop and asked how much they would charge to install the Tubular Control Arms, R/R the LCA Bushings, Shocks, Pitman Arm and Strut Rod and Sway Bar Bushings. When he quoted a minimum of 8 hours at $110/hr simple math told me $880+!
I then thought, "Dang, for $900 all I'd get would be the parts replaced, but the suspension would still look like crap!" Well, being the anal person I am I wanted everything cleaned and POR15 so I decided to just do the job myself. To be totally honest, IT WASN'T THAT BAD AT ALL! One of my biggest fears were the Tortion Bars, but with the correct tool suggested by 330dta it slid right out and right back in! So all that said, "It's really not that hard if you have the right tools - it just takes time and patience.

Oh yes...and by the way... that $900+ in labor I saved doing this myself PAID FOR ALL THOSE ADDITIONAL PARTS!!!

 

[commando1]

Amen.

 

[cantflip]

Amen.

X2

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Tighten the piviots in stub frame with control arms at ride height approx to lessen the strain on the bushing, that way bushing is relaxed at ride height.
Before tightening t bar adjuster.

 

[65sporty]

Nice job, the parts look great and should preform like new

 

[SF-66TC]

Tighten the piviots in stub frame with control arms at ride height approx to lessen the strain on the bushing, that way bushing is relaxed at ride height.
Before tightening t bar adjuster.

THANKS 70bigblockdodge - I'll do that!

 

[SF-66TC]

Getting there... Saturday finished up installing the rebuilt steering box, LCA's, spindles and disc brakes.

Still left to do; install new Pitman Arm, connect center link, tie rods, front sway bar, fill and bleed power steering pump and gear box, let car on the ground and tighten T-bar adjuster and torque strut bars and LCA pivot rods.

 

[65sporty]

Looking good