LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Dave, Dylan is one of our younger members, I don't even know if he has a drivers license!
Lugnut Nightmare
- Thread starter Dylan Galvin
- Start date
Dave, Dylan is one of our younger members, I don't even know if he has a drivers license!
Than he's more computer savvy than I . Should take no time at all
Dylan Galvin
Active Member
Got a very little somewhere tonight. Cant get anything done late with these damn cordless drills. I only have a real thick disc for the grinder right now, so it wasn't any help. By the way, new hubs, wheels, and studs are sitting in my garage right now so dont be phased by the destructive nature of this picture.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
You'd make this guy proud with work like that!
If you are replacing the hub, then just pull the center cap off, undo the cotter pin and back the spindle nut off. Everything will come of in one piece.
You say you are replacing all that stuff anyway, so just take it off and quit screwing around with it.
Dylan Galvin
Active Member
Oh my, I cannot describe how silly I feel now. Thanks John, next time maybe I'll actually use some commen sense. Woops
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Dylan Galvin
Active Member
Sweet relief.
Dylan Galvin
Active Member
Could someone let me know how to remove the rubber brake line from the back of the drum assembly? I kind of need that. I tried turning a wrench on it, but its happy where it is. Do I need to use a line wrench for it as well? I'll need a larger one if so.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
If you want to re-use the rubber line you will need a flare nut wrench. You would have the proper size if you bought a good quality complete set of flare nut wrench's.
DO NOT TWIST THE RUBBER HOSE!
Steps
1) Remove steel inboard line with your flare nut wrench.
2) Remove rubber hose bracket from frame or rubber line metal end from bracket which ever is easier. Most time it is easier to take bracket off frame.
3) Using the proper 6 sided flare nut wrench unscrew wheel cylinder metal end of hose from wheel cylinder, this should be done with a 1/4 turn (crack) of the connection then you should be able turn hose by hand carefully to unscrew it. No extreme bends or twists!
From the above picture the hose doesn't look that old by the shiny end but on older/original where you will be replacing the wheel cylinder and hose it's 'Open Season' as they say especially if someone has monkey wrenched the wheel cylinder end nut, (used opened end vs flare nut wrench) so cutting the hose to use a six sided socket to remove is OK. If it is really old & rusted/frozen a little dot of red hot heat on wheel cylinder will loosen up 'jist'bout anything or just torch it off.
In just about all cases you will need the get the rubber hose metal end off the wheel cylinder to remove the wheel cylinder from the backing plate.
Question? Do you mind if I ask you what you do for a living? The reason I ask is because "but its happy where it is." kind of puzzles me.... lol
DO NOT TWIST THE RUBBER HOSE!
Steps
1) Remove steel inboard line with your flare nut wrench.
2) Remove rubber hose bracket from frame or rubber line metal end from bracket which ever is easier. Most time it is easier to take bracket off frame.
3) Using the proper 6 sided flare nut wrench unscrew wheel cylinder metal end of hose from wheel cylinder, this should be done with a 1/4 turn (crack) of the connection then you should be able turn hose by hand carefully to unscrew it. No extreme bends or twists!
From the above picture the hose doesn't look that old by the shiny end but on older/original where you will be replacing the wheel cylinder and hose it's 'Open Season' as they say especially if someone has monkey wrenched the wheel cylinder end nut, (used opened end vs flare nut wrench) so cutting the hose to use a six sided socket to remove is OK. If it is really old & rusted/frozen a little dot of red hot heat on wheel cylinder will loosen up 'jist'bout anything or just torch it off.
In just about all cases you will need the get the rubber hose metal end off the wheel cylinder to remove the wheel cylinder from the backing plate.
Question? Do you mind if I ask you what you do for a living? The reason I ask is because "but its happy where it is." kind of puzzles me.... lol
Dylan Galvin
Active Member
So i already removed the bracket from the frame, seemed easiest. Thanks for the tips. i only have one of those wrenches you're talking about, and its way too small. I meant when I turned the metal end it was not loosening at all, probably because I was using a standard adjustable wrench
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
You probably rounded the nut hex already if it slipped. ie monkey wrenched.
TIP: Take them adjustable wrenches and toss them out of your tool box!
Or giv'em to the wife or kids if they are mechanically inclined.
TIP: Take them adjustable wrenches and toss them out of your tool box!
Or giv'em to the wife or kids if they are mechanically inclined.
Better yet, cut the hose and put a new one on. You are replacing other lines because you say they need it, so it's pretty safe to assume the rubber hose(s) need to be replaced too. Do it once, do it right. Do the rear one too.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
I was just preaching this mentality yesterday, do it right and be done with it. Sounds like a proper tool set is in your future Dylan, it will be worth every penny. A set of brake tools and a couple of other specialty tools, and you can do almost anything on these old cars. Just keep plugging away. Don't throw out those adjustable wrenches, they have plenty of uses, just not brake lines!
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bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
vice grips........
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Dylan Galvin
Active Member
Yeah I have many uses for my wrenches, Monaco or not. They're not going anywhere.
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