My new Big Red 72 Imperial mechanic feedback about the brake issue

[DocMcNeedy]

My mechanic gave me a laundry list of things to fix on Big Red...the brake problem apparently originating from a major air leak at the spacer at the master cylinder union. Anyone ever have issues here and finding these necessary parts? I have estimate to fix that and improve some things under the hood, tranny tuneup and full new brake job

. Just need it road safe first before other things like interior pieces get addressed.

 

[cantflip]

My mechanic gave me a laundry list of things to fix on Big Red...the brake problem apparently originating from a major air leak at the spacer at the master cylinder union. Anyone ever have issues here and finding these necessary parts? I have estimate to fix that and improve some things under the hood, tranny tuneup and full new brake jobView attachment 134966 . Just need it road safe first before other things like interior pieces get addressed. View attachment 134965

Your picture just looks like spillage from the master cylinder reservoir... if the rear seal of the master is leaking, that's a rebuild... I am not intimately familiar with your car, maybe someone who is will chime in.

 

[Davea Lux]

My mechanic gave me a laundry list of things to fix on Big Red...the brake problem apparently originating from a major air leak at the spacer at the master cylinder union. Anyone ever have issues here and finding these necessary parts? I have estimate to fix that and improve some things under the hood, tranny tuneup and full new brake jobView attachment 134966 . Just need it road safe first before other things like interior pieces get addressed. View attachment 134965

Doc:

Usually this condition is caused by a bad master cylinder that has leaked brake fluid into the brake booster unit and this needs to be repaired NOW! (Brake fluid degrades the internal components of the booster) A continued leak of this type will eventually cause the brakes to be very sluggish due to the lack of vacuum pressure if they aren't so already. (Not to mention that a leaking master cylinder will cause the brakes to fail due to lack of fluid pressure) I would suggest that you have the master cylinder checked for leaks and replaced or rebuilt as necessary. A NOS after-market master cylinder will start at about $60. Boosters start at about $175 (Both are for parts only) You already have a vacuum leak at the connector, so you will need to have the brake booster rebuilt. A transmission service on these vehicles should be done about every 40k, this will include a fluid change and a band adjustment and filter replacement, should cost at a shop a about $120. The brake job complete is harder to estimate as I have no idea what is left of the drums and rotors. Front rotor assemblies are about $60 each for after-market replacement (shop net). Rear drums are worth about $85 for after-market drums (shop net) or less depending on the shop volume discount. Brake pads and shoes are relatively cheap as are re-built disc brake calipers and wheel cylinders (wheel cylinders are about $6-8, calipers start at about $29.,(or less)( shop net) Most shops will mark up parts about 50-70% All these parts are available if you know where to look. J.C. Whitney Carid or Rock Auto will usually have the necessary parts in stock if you do your own wrench work. Hope this helps

Dave

 

[Turboomni]

Just from my experience when I bought my Fury last year I found a very good mechanic as I assume you have as I don't work on cars much anymore .just smaller stuff. But to the point I would frankly let your trusted mechanic go crazy on big red if the car is rather new to you. Fix the master and booster with new or reman ,change the rubber brake lines ,turn the drums or replace, rebuild brakes ,cylinders, metal lines ,service the tranny,check over and replace any suspect front suspension components. I had my mechanic replace the whole front end as he thought it was all original to the car.. if needed cough it up now and then forget about it for a long time. For a car seemingly as nice as yours it will be the best thing for both of you.

 

[Mr C]

That booster looks odd to me...I do not recall ever having a master that didn't mount right up to the booster.

 

[DocMcNeedy]

Doc:

Usually this condition is caused by a bad master cylinder that has leaked brake fluid into the brake booster unit and this needs to be repaired NOW! (Brake fluid degrades the internal components of the booster) A continued leak of this type will eventually cause the brakes to be very sluggish due to the lack of vacuum pressure if they aren't so already. (Not to mention that a leaking master cylinder will cause the brakes to fail due to lack of fluid pressure) I would suggest that you have the master cylinder checked for leaks and replaced or rebuilt as necessary. A NOS after-market master cylinder will start at about $60. Boosters start at about $175 (Both are for parts only) You already have a vacuum leak at the connector, so you will need to have the brake booster rebuilt. A transmission service on these vehicles should be done about every 40k, this will include a fluid change and a band adjustment and filter replacement, should cost at a shop a about $120. The brake job complete is harder to estimate as I have no idea what is left of the drums and rotors. Front rotor assemblies are about $60 each for after-market replacement (shop net). Rear drums are worth about $85 for after-market drums (shop net) or less depending on the shop volume discount. Brake pads and shoes are relatively cheap as are re-built disc brake calipers and wheel cylinders (wheel cylinders are about $6-8, calipers start at about $29.,(or less)( shop net) Most shops will mark up parts about 50-70% All these parts are available if you know where to look. J.C. Whitney Carid or Rock Auto will usually have the necessary parts in stock if you do your own wrench work. Hope this helps

Dave

Dave,
Thank you for a very thorough diagnosis...I believe you are right on the money. The brake pedal goes all the way to floor with little to no braking power now. Rebuilt cylinder/booster combo top of the list to get it on the road...car must have been sitting in storage for a while. My mechanic is going use his resources to find all parts necessary to get it done. I'll pass on the sources you mentioned if he gets stumped. He has been a mechanic for 60 years and has 40 collector cars of his own so it shouldn't be an issue getting done. I just know he doesn't see 72 Imperials in his shop very often. It has been flat-bedded back home as we wait for the parts to be delivered. General estimate with full brake job, tranny tune up, engine tune up, filters, misc. wiring and removing oddball accessories... think about 3K.

 

[DocMcNeedy]

Just from my experience when I bought my Fury last year I found a very good mechanic as I assume you have as I don't work on cars much anymore .just smaller stuff. But to the point I would frankly let your trusted mechanic go crazy on big red if the car is rather new to you. Fix the master and booster with new or reman ,change the rubber brake lines ,turn the drums or replace, rebuild brakes ,cylinders, metal lines ,service the tranny,check over and replace any suspect front suspension components. I had my mechanic replace the whole front end as he thought it was all original to the car.. if needed cough it up now and then forget about it for a long time. For a car seemingly as nice as yours it will be the best thing for both of you.

Thank you for great advice...the estimate to get done exactly what you mentioned is about 3K...and I'm fine with that and parts are being ordered up...I think I got a good deal on vehicle initially...it's a real clean solid body and 440 engine...just needs some TLC up front to make it a safe driver...later deal with the aftermarket sunroof, interior, steering wheel, etc...

 

[Wile E Coyote]

That spacer is correct; I have that same one on my 72 Imperial. Davea Lux described my condition when it happened to me; MC leaked into booster and ruined the rubber. Back in 1995, I was in Louisiana for a one week job staying at a hotel. It happened the day I got there, Sunday. Parts store couldn't get one so I called Murray Parks on Monday. Murray sent me a used one and it arrived on Wednesday. Thursday night I reassembled it and Friday after work I was back on the road! (Sorry; memory lane. I know you didn't need all that info!)
Like turboomni and others state; replace it all. I just did mine last year. Calipers, rotors, rubber lines on front, master cylinder, wheel cylinders. Cheap insurance and peace of mind knowing you can STOP. If you can't stop and have even a little crash, boom, bang - the price of replacement parts (if you can find them) will be WAY more than the price of a full brake job.
Do the whole brake job now. Do it once, do it right.

 

[DocMcNeedy]

That spacer is correct; I have that same one on my 72 Imperial. Davea Lux described my condition when it happened to me; MC leaked into booster and ruined the rubber. Back in 1995, I was in Louisiana for a one week job staying at a hotel. It happened the day I got there, Sunday. Parts store couldn't get one so I called Murray Parks on Monday. Murray sent me a used one and it arrived on Wednesday. Thursday night I reassembled it and Friday after work I was back on the road! (Sorry; memory lane. I know you didn't need all that info!)
Like turboomni and others state; replace it all. I just did mine last year. Calipers, rotors, rubber lines on front, master cylinder, wheel cylinders. Cheap insurance and peace of mind knowing you can STOP. If you can't stop and have even a little crash, boom, bang - the price of replacement parts (if you can find them) will be WAY more than the price of a full brake job.
Do the whole brake job now. Do it once, do it right.
View attachment 134981

I definitely agree...will spend the $$$ to do it right...waiting for parts...hard to stop a 6,000 lb tank with your feet...I'm just suffering from "I just bought it and want to drive it...and all I can do is look at it...without brakes."

 

[Xenon]

Where did you get the car from..?
Says you are in PL Minn yet plates are classic Illinois plates...

 

[DocMcNeedy]

Where did you get the car from..?
Says you are in PL Minn yet plates are classic Illinois plates...

Purchased vehicle from Country Classic Cars LLC in Illinois...shipped to Mn. PO passed away and had those plates. The dealer had it online on Hemmings as a consignment. Plates came with the sale. I suppose the car should have come with plates removed but i like them...eventually will make it to mancave wall i think. Temp permit in window. Mn collector plates on their way...takes forever.

 

[Xenon]

Illinois AV plates are the ONLY good deal in the state....
35$ for five years......
However the dealer is suppose to remove them prior to selling car
even if a consignment car....

 

[DocMcNeedy]

Illinois AV plates are the ONLY good deal in the state....
35$ for five years......
However the dealer is suppose to remove them prior to selling car
even if a consignment car....

I was surprised to see them on vehicle when it was delivered...
Wasn't completely sure that state's policy. Nothing weird is gonna happen...new plates are coming.