Need help ID-ing brake drums

The most effective way to resurface a drum is to have them ground at a machine shop rather then cut.

OK, grinding I know of, and turning them to get them perfectly circular is a must when they warp out of that (if its not too much), but what I'm interested in is a process of re-lining the drum, and bonding that inner lining to the outer drum. Given how cylinder bores can be re-sleeved, it should be feasible enough to sleeve a brake drum. After all, iron's malleability still makes it a most attractive metal for working with.
 
I just pulled the same drums off the front of my 67 the other day. You need to either cut the swage off around the lugs, or press each one individually out of the hub and drum. I'm doing a disc brake upgrade so I didn't care about the drums and tried to press the whole hub out with a hydraulic press.

If you insist on keeping drums on the front, this is the correct way to do it: Wheel stud swedge cutting tool

Don't do what I did if you plan to get your drums resurfaced:


THANK YOU for this VITAL DATUM! I'll have to deal with this issue on my recently acquired 1968 Newport in a year or 2. I suppose I could take the front hubs to a machine shop, but I prefer the satisfaction of doing this job myself. Once de-swedged, I'll never afflict myself with that crap again. My 1966 was free of that on the front hubs, while the rear ones had been ruined in a number of ways, and just replaced the axles or "drive shafts" to use the FSM nomenclature. I looked at the butcher job that fellow with the hole saw did and decided its well worth getting the RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB.
 
Are brake shops no longer equipped with brake lathes capable of turning frond drums with the hubs attached? If this is a problem, find an old shop with an old mechanic. Separating the drum is asking for runout problems when re-installing. Has always worked for me. Lindsay
 
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