Needing help with 70 300 steering column reinstallation

[challenger]

I don't know why this thing is being such a problem but the steering column, which I removed to R&R the input seal on the PS box, isn't lining up as described in the FSM.

The current problem I have is with the steering shaft not being in the center of the shift tube. For some reason the FSM for this car and I have a terrible communication problem. I've worked on several Mopars and had a FSM for all of them but this one always finds a way to confuse the **** out of me. Here are the pages, from my FSM, for the installation of the column:

I do not have a shaft centering tool so I figured I could snug up the 3 floor bolts and center the shaft by using the pressure from the bolts to keep the shift tube somewhat centered. This has not worked so far. The bolts either get tightened too much or too little so the tube either won't stay somewhat centered ot I can't move it. In addition to this the manual never states when to remove the centering tool from the tube. As mentioned, I am not going to use the tool BUT I'd like to know if its use is finished after everything is tightened up are somewhere else? The main reason I ask this is because I really can't figure out WTF the reason is for having the "O" ring retainer. Is it to secure the tube to the floor plate?
Lastly what impact does the rear hanger bracket and bolt have on the whole alignment of the column/shaft/shift tube. There doesn't seem to be much play in the bracket yet it is one of the last items to be tightened down.
BTW - is there a simply tool that others have used to keep the shaft centered in the shift tube?

 

[Dobalovr]

 

[saylor]

i have no idea why, but this was the single hardest job I have done on my car to date.

it took 3 people - me on the inside on the floorboard, one guy at the connection, and one guy with a hammer.

just thought id help encourage you.

try not to die -

- saylor

 

[saylor]

oh OH oh and pay note to #8 .. .my selector is off by 1 because I didnt do #8 . . .

 

[challenger]

oh OH oh and pay note to #8 .. .my selector is off by 1 because I didnt do #8 . . .

I'm pretty sure the gear selection can be fixed by adjusting the linkage in the engine compartment. It doesn't take much movement, from an original or previously working position of the shift tube, to throw off the gear selector on the column. I had a similar situation when I simply unbolted the column while doing work to the instrument cluster and I was able to adjust the slide on my linkage to remedy that. Perhaps yours is out of the range of the adjustment ability of the linkage which sounds like the case. Having the selector off by one would drive me crazy. (crazier)
Last night I had an epiphany about what my problem with the column is and I'll go out this AM to see about it. After thinking about it more I think I now understand all the adjustments and what needs to happen. I think the issue is that the floor plate is stuck to the shift tube and isn't allowing the tube complete adjustability . The floor plate has to allow the shift tube to slide in and out for the proper distance of the coupling and it has to allow the tube to rotate for proper selector adjustment. Obviously if it can slide it can also rotate. Mine is currently stuck hard to the tube. I didn't have the column completely apart so the floor plate hasn't been moved from the position its been in for almost 50 years. I'm pretty sure the column was installed from the factory without the shaft centered in the shift tube. Last night I came to finally understand that floor plate floats on the shift tube and the "O" ring retainer clamps to the floor plate securing everything in position once the centering of the shaft within the shift tube, 13/16" coupling adjustment and shift selector adjustments have been made and floor plate and three column bracket nuts and bolts have been tightened. It's like the old ankle bone connected to the leg bone song I guess . To clear up possible confusion the "O" ring referred to in the FSM is a thick, round piece of spring steel. It gets positioned in a groove that's been formed in the shift tube and it snaps in this groove. Once seated in the groove it's not going anywhere without being prayed out. The retainer slides on the shift tube and the O ring acts as a stop for the retainer and the retainer can then secure the shift tube to the floor plate.
I'll report back with the results if I have good luck. If not I'll report a stolen car to my insurance company AFTER I drive this fu$@er into a deep lake.
BTW I'm going to try to use a piece of rope or fuel line or a towel/rag as a "tool" for keeping the shaft centered in the shift tube.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

I got lost trying to read through everything here,

If you didn't take the column apart (wouldn't matter if you did) installing a steering column shouldn't be an issue.

Typically I'm working alone so I need to be creative. I first place the column through the floor and rest the steering wheel on the seat or a box.
The steering column can only go together one way, so the shift tube and lever will be in the proper orientation when installed.
I will first work the coupler on to the steering gear, this should more or less just slip on once in the proper rotation, NEVER use a hammer as you can do damage to the shear pins.

Once you have the coupler lined up lift the column into place and put the dash nuts on.

At this point make sure the coupler is seated and put the pin in, you should be able to use firm bumps on the steering wheel to seat the coupler.

Once it is seated bolt the plate to the floor, the two bolt plate may need to be loosened to get the three bolt plate to line up (this may be where your problem is).

With the column in then connect the shift rod, you may need to reset the adjuster on the rod going to the transmission. I like to loosen this and make sure the lever is all the way in park with the shift lever in the interior in park.


Alan

 

[challenger]

Alan, that is exactly how I got mine in. Working alone it can be a VERY big hassle. I guess your luck is exceptional . I had to go back and forth three times because they coupler slipped off the gear box shaft twice.
I wouldn't follow your "detailed" instructions. You didn't mention the fact that the shaft should be positioned a specific distance within the coupling. If you just jam the thing in there the end of the shaft could be against the bottom of the inside of the fouling and destroy **** when the first bump comes along.
Also you didn't mention centering the shaft in the tube? I doubt it highly critical but it's pretty easy to install a steering column and have the shaft rub on the shift tube from that point forward. I doubt anyone wants that so IT IS important to at least make sure the shaft is clear of the tube no? In addition there are steps detailed in the FSM that have safety concerns regarding the collapsing of the steering wheel.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

The bearings center the shaft in the column, I did say... "this should more or less just slip on once in the proper rotation", yes there is only one position for this, the coupler is keyed per se. The roll pin will only go in if the coupler is positioned correctly. If you clean both the inside the splines and the steering gear these should wiggle together by hand. I did mention not using a hammer, there are shear pins on the steering shaft and the shift tube. Bumping the wheel with the heal of your hand should not hurt these, short of a crash the column housing is safe.

As for centering the steering shaft in the coupler, this can be a feel thing, get the coupler seated and pined then check it when you bolt up the column. There is a fair amount of travel in the coupler and if you didn't touch any of the column mounting points it will go right bank where it was. If you want to be sure mark the shaft with the coupler in both positions and find halfway, mark it, I'd say if you are within an 1/8" of center you are close enough.

You did not mention moving any of the mounting surfaces when the column was out so it should go right back where it was. Yes the dash mounting plate has slots but the floor plate is fixed and it secured after the column is in place, thus fixing that adjustment. You don't move the shaft to adjust the column you move the entire column assembly. The seal between the floor plates (the 2 bolt and 3 bolt ones) locks the adjustment.

For someone that simply pulled the column to replace a steering gear and or rebuild a coupler my initial reinstall outline should have been just fine.

Even as I read this and what has been posted I find myself questioning what is referred to when talked about centering the shaft in the column.
There is no lateral adjustment here, that is fixed. Centering the shaft in the coupler is done by moving the entire steering column assembly in the car, the adjustments are in the mounting brackets to the dash and floor.


Alan

 

[70bigblockdodge]

You don't want it to bind anywhere but perfect concentricity is not really needed. Put it together like it is your 40th one today and I wonder what is for lunch in the cafeteria today?

 

[MrMoparCHP]

...As mentioned, I am not going to use the tool BUT I'd like to know if its use is finished after everything is tightened up are somewhere else?

The main reason I ask this is because I really can't figure out WTF the reason is for having the "O" ring retainer. Is it to secure the tube to the floor plate?

Lastly what impact does the rear hanger bracket and bolt have on the whole alignment of the column/shaft/shift tube.
There doesn't seem to be much play in the bracket yet it is one of the last items to be tightened down.

BTW - is there a simply tool that others have used to keep the shaft centered in the shift tube?

Ok lets step back and look at this again.

The centering tool? Wright it off to engineers trying to be mechanics. I see no reason for it and feel the bearings do the job.

The O-ring is a seal, It will hold the mounting plates in position if the column is removed (long as you do not loosen the two bolts). Once the two bolts on the o-ring are locked down the lateral (in/out) position of the column housing is fixed.

The hanger bracket bolts to the column in a fixed position (there is no play) and the adjustment is in the bracket to the dash (technically this isn't an adjustment, just the final bolts holding it in place).

So here is what you need to do
A. Get the column in place (with the hanger bracket locket down tight, floor plates loose)
B. Fit coupler to steering gear, put the pin in.
C. Lift column in place and place a couple dash nuts on (loose), mke sure floor plates are not pressed against the floor.
D. Center column in the couler.
E. Bolt plate to floor and tighten the two bolts on the secondary plate
F. Check the coupler to make sure still centered.
G. Lock down dash mounting nuts (all three)
H. Hookup and adjust the shifter
I. Plug in turn signal connector.


Alan