New engine for FURYIOUS

[C Body Bob]

My over budget 440 build.

Ok I’ll be screwing the motor together next week when all the parts arrive. Low compression 440 with Speedmaster aluminum heads. Used purpleshaft cam 509 lift installed straight up. Crank was turned 20 under. Going with a Cometic MLS .27 compressed head gasket. 72 chamber heads. Should get 8.3 to 8.5 compression. STP oil treatment as assembly lube. Prime engine while rotating. 8 qts 10W30 Penzoil. Looks like I’ll need a single plane intake. Eddy Torker or MOPAR M1 if anybody has a deal on one uncut for a RB MOPAR. I’ll do a clay test on the piston to valve just to be sure. Holley 750 dual line with single pump & 25 squirter to start. I also need a RB curved electronic dizzy. Does this recipe sound good. Any suggestions. Remember it’s a over budge build already. Looking for 375-400 horsepower.

 

[MarPar]

 

[C Body Bob]

View attachment 389533

did you miss the part about already being over budget LOL

 

[Turboomni]

For a single plane intake ,how about a Holley Street Dominator? I am using one on my 505 because I will be able to use my stock dual snorkel air cleaner,, It flows very well and can accept holly and carter type carbs. Here is a pic of before my mod and after of the manifold. Very low rise for low clearance hoods.

Before

After

 

[CBODY67]

Everything sounds decent other than the compression ratio. Might aiming for 9.5 be better? Can the heads be optioned with a smaller chamber?

Headers and under-car exhaust system?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Turboomni]

My stroker will be 9.7 to 1 compression ratio as that is the highest my engine designer will accept for pump premium with aluminum heads. Don't know about cast iron heads.

 

[C-Sick]

Why single plane at that power level? You'd be giving up a bunch down low, and not really gaining much if any up top. Performer RPM and call it good. 750 Holley should be OK for the expected power level. What heads are you using?

I get budget, but if you're building it why such low CR? 9.5:1 is still pump gas friendly and will make more power.

 

[Turboomni]

Why single plane at that power level? You'd be giving up a bunch down low, and not really gaining much if any up top. Performer RPM and call it good.

Good point of course on the dual plane. I suggested the Holley single plane as it is a rather small single plane and is what he asked for ,a single plane. For my stroker I will not be lacking in torque down low. In his case we do not know what rpm range he wants his power. He also didn't say if he is running headers or exhaust manifolds. He is experienced and was specific so,,,,

 

[C Body Bob]

For a single plane intake ,how about a Holley Street Dominator? I am using one on my 505 because I will be able to use my stock dual snorkel air cleaner,, It flows very well and can accept holly and carter type carbs. Here is a pic of before my mod and after of the manifold. Very low rise for low clearance hoods.

Before

View attachment 389536

After

View attachment 389537 View attachment 389537

I’ve heard a lot of good things about the Holley. Trying to find a good used one at a low price is hard. I rarely see one for sale & when I do they want $250 for it.

 

[C Body Bob]

Everything sounds decent other than the compression ratio. Might aiming for 9.5 be better? Can the heads be optioned with a smaller chamber?

Headers and under-car exhaust system?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

72 is pretty small. To raise compression means new pistons, boring, honing & new rings. $600-$700 more bucks.

 

[C Body Bob]

My stroker will be 9.7 to 1 compression ratio as that is the highest my engine designer will accept for pump premium with aluminum heads. Don't know about cast iron heads.

I had a 10 1/2 440 that ran fine on 92 pump. Ross pistons small dome, .30 over. MOPAR stage 5 heads.

 

[C Body Bob]

Why single plane at that power level? You'd be giving up a bunch down low, and not really gaining much if any up top. Performer RPM and call it good. 750 Holley should be OK for the expected power level. What heads are you using?

I get budget, but if you're building it why such low CR? 9.5:1 is still pump gas friendly and will make more power.

Drag motor with loose converter, launching at 2000-2200. Use spacer to tune power band. And the single plane is 5 pounds lighter. Speedmaster heads. As for compression. That’s the way the smog motors of the 70’s came.

 

[C Body Bob]

Good point of course on the dual plane. I suggested the Holley single plane as it is a rather small single plane and is what he asked for ,a single plane. For my stroker I will not be lacking in torque down low. In his case we do not know what rpm range he wants his power. He also didn't say if he is running headers or exhaust manifolds. He is experienced and was specific so,,,,

FURYIOUS is my Drag car. It’s got headers, slicks, trick trans parts, loose converter, lots of weight remove. 3135 pounds as it sits right now. Hope to get even lighter.

 

[Ripinator]

View attachment 389486 My over budget 440 build.

Ok I’ll be screwing the motor together next week when all the parts arrive. Low compression 440 with Speedmaster aluminum heads. Used purpleshaft cam 509 lift installed straight up. Crank was turned 20 under. Going with a Cometic MLS .27 compressed head gasket. 72 chamber heads. Should get 8.3 to 8.5 compression. STP oil treatment as assembly lube. Prime engine while rotating. 8 qts 10W30 Penzoil. Looks like I’ll need a single plane intake. Eddy Torker or MOPAR M1 if anybody has a deal on one uncut for a RB MOPAR. I’ll do a clay test on the piston to valve just to be sure. Holley 750 dual line with single pump & 25 squirter to start. I also need a RB curved electronic dizzy. Does this recipe sound good. Any suggestions. Remember it’s a over budge build already. Looking for 375-400 horsepower.

Bob: The only thing I would suggest is to use real break-in oil and good cam lube. I used COMP CAMS 15W-40 break-in oil during the first start and cam break-in on my '66 440. Runs great now. . .

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I would advance the cam 4-6 °, get that intake valve closed early to build cylinder pressure. You don't need to rev those stock pistons much over 6k, so the rpm you may give up, up top, will trade off to a little better down low.
Put some real oil in that thing, any oil with a API seal on the back is no good for flat tappet cams,(unless it is a old bottle from late last century)

 

[MarPar]

did you miss the part about already being over budget LOL

Nope lol

 

[CBODY67]

One of our friends has a restored '69 Super Bee 440 6-Pack. Correct red line repro tires, stock wheels, TorqueFlite, and probably 4.10 SureGrip. Conventional wisdom is to advance the cam for a bit more lower-rpm torque, or at least put it in at "0". What he did was to do the opposite, put it in at "-4 degrees". Which bled-off enough low end torque so that the skinnier tires would hook up better, as the retard helped top-end power. As a result, his car ran faster than another friend's similar Super Bee did. No matter what. The other guy tweaked and tuned until there was nothing else to do, again. Finally, the secret was revealed.

With the lower compression ratio, advancing for more cyl pressure would be good, though, all things considered. Especially with good grip.

I would hope that the MP 509, being an OEM-supplied product, would have OEM-lever Parkerizing on the cam lobes. Not sure how the current state of affairs might be compared to earlier times, though. Seems like I've seen some virgin oil analysis postings of a Joe Gibbs race oil with 3000ppm zddp? Which might work well as a cam break-in oil?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[C Body Bob]

One of our friends has a restored '69 Super Bee 440 6-Pack. Correct red line repro tires, stock wheels, TorqueFlite, and probably 4.10 SureGrip. Conventional wisdom is to advance the cam for a bit more lower-rpm torque, or at least put it in at "0". What he did was to do the opposite, put it in at "-4 degrees". Which bled-off enough low end torque so that the skinnier tires would hook up better, as the retard helped top-end power. As a result, his car ran faster than another friend's similar Super Bee did. No matter what. The other guy tweaked and tuned until there was nothing else to do, again. Finally, the secret was revealed.

With the lower compression ratio, advancing for more cyl pressure would be good, though, all things considered. Especially with good grip.

I would hope that the MP 509, being an OEM-supplied product, would have OEM-lever Parkerizing on the cam lobes. Not sure how the current state of affairs might be compared to earlier times, though. Seems like I've seen some virgin oil analysis postings of a Joe Gibbs race oil with 3000ppm zddp? Which might work well as a cam break-in oil?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

The main purpose of installing the cam straight up it to have a baseline. Since it’s a totally new combination I’ll have the option to move the cam as I see what the car needs. The combo I ran last season was weak down low but had strong top end. So I’ll see how this one does & tune from there. This cam definitely was not designed for low compression so I realize it’s not optimal but it’s what I have

 

[70bigblockdodge]

This cam definitely was not designed for low compression so I realize it’s not optimal but it’s what I have

Yep, lot of overlap in that one, it is quite bitchy if you were going to street drive, not a concern for Furious. My guess you will need alot of fuel early.

 

[65sporty]

Throw in a bottle of supplement with zddp for that cam break in.

Comp has it's own also and others make it. Anything flat tappet I work on gets it during a oil change.

 

[furious70]

I've got an rb torker for $125 + shipping if you want it.
I also have an 850cfm Holley with annular boosters that might help you get single down low.
The 509 will want a single plane I agree. Wind it up.