Hey all! So I’m finally at the fun stage of going through my electrical harness before I reinstall my dash. There are a few shady solder jobs need redone. So, since I plan on adding some modern accessories (new head unit, a few USB ports), what are some suggestions about decent newer bladed fuse blocks? I only have the 7 circuit buss block and would rather have some spares for future accessories possibly. Thanks for any suggestions and advice.
New fuse block
- Thread starter AlVal74
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sprice
Active Member
Have to admit, the connections are somewhat intriguing. Especially the 14 guage copper twist-connect. Never seen that before.
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
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Are you going to upgrade the charging circuit to handle the extra power requirements? Possibly an ammeter bypass and slightly heavy wire to carry the power inside.
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
Is this regarding the '68 300 in your avatar? If so I think later models had more fuse terminals, I could be wrong though. Seperate universal fuse block? Did the car run with the wires like that? Typically you want to keep red and black away from eachother, I'm no expert though. I'm not sure exactly what that relay upon a relay is, it would mount inside, beside the fuse block.
This is the way I found it. Yes it ran. Turns out those 2 wires actually connect to one another in the diagram. Why someone did this is mind boggling. Only 7 fuses in it. Looks like 3 direct battery and 4 switched fuses. Definitely need more so I guess a separate block. Any suggestions on a good one? I hear good and bad stories about painless. Also good and bad about Ron Francis?
Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
On one of my Chryslers I added a Painless Performance "CirKit Boss Auxiliary Fuse Block" under the hood. This provides a mix of relay-switched and always-hot circuits for adding accessories. I have no complaints with it.
If you want to add a power distribution center under the hood that replaces the fusible links with MIDI fuses and also adds some always-hot circuits, look at the Blue Sea Systems Safety Hub model 100 or 150.
If you are looking to replace your original fuse panel under the dash with something else, you might consider using these 4-circuit panels from Blue Sea Systems. You would need two of them, one for switched circuits and one for always-hot circuits, plus a separate inline fuse holder for the dimmable dash lights. You should wind up with 2 extra circuits for expansion, and at least one of them will be on the switched fuse block. I just wish that they also made this in a mirror-image layout so 2 could be mounted on a board with the power feeds both coming in from the same end and the output terminals on opposite sides.
If you want to add a power distribution center under the hood that replaces the fusible links with MIDI fuses and also adds some always-hot circuits, look at the Blue Sea Systems Safety Hub model 100 or 150.
If you are looking to replace your original fuse panel under the dash with something else, you might consider using these 4-circuit panels from Blue Sea Systems. You would need two of them, one for switched circuits and one for always-hot circuits, plus a separate inline fuse holder for the dimmable dash lights. You should wind up with 2 extra circuits for expansion, and at least one of them will be on the switched fuse block. I just wish that they also made this in a mirror-image layout so 2 could be mounted on a board with the power feeds both coming in from the same end and the output terminals on opposite sides.
I have 2 more questions please guys. In the photo what is the relay right above the ammeter connections? And the wire on the fuse block says ACC in the manual. Does it just connect to the feed side or does it connect elsewhere. On the fuse side it says RR A/C. The car had dealer aftermarket AC so it’s confusing me. Y’all have been extremely helpful and I appreciate it.
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