1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
If the zerk fitting/grease fitting is clean and they won't take grease, that can mean the grease is dried up inside.
New Land Barge, new forum .
- Thread starter ksc
- Start date
fury fan
Senior Member
I agree with that but I would stipulate:
If you wiggle it with one hand and and immediately feel slop - it's really worn.
You then need to wiggle it from different orientations, and with a mini-prybar, to make sure all 4 caps/bearings are good.
You'll be looking for slop of 1/16" or less?
But you really need to disconnect the driveshaft and roll the joint thru a full range of motion to accurately evaluate.
Roll the 2 caps that become free when you disconnect from the rear axle (don't drop them), then pivot the cross to/fro.
Slide the driveshaft out and pivot the output yoke in both directions.
You can have a joint that doesn't have slop, but has roughness and/or spots of resistance.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
I've always had the rear on jackstands, with the transmission in neutral. Wiggle while spinning the driveshaft and you'll know if the joints are good or not.
fury fan
Senior Member
That's good too. I guess mostly what I was meaning to say was to be thorough about checking them, if a guy just grabs it and blesses it because it didn't wobble in his hand, then he might mis-diagnose.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Yep, out of the car is the most accurate way.
ksc
New Member
I need a drive shaft . The rear yoke has had a joint beaten out of it at one time Severe ware on the yoke ears. Low on surface area contact(friction/press fit).
ksc
New Member
Been driving daily . 50 + miles a day
Runs great .
Still making decisions for front suspension .
OE type sway bar bushings un-available . Likely cut my own.
Talking with Firm Feel . Fatt+ torsen bars and urethane bushes.
Front brake parts trickle in . Though no front calipers seem to be available.
Thoughts on window regulator rollers? Please .
Driver side front window
Runs great .
Still making decisions for front suspension .
OE type sway bar bushings un-available . Likely cut my own.
Talking with Firm Feel . Fatt+ torsen bars and urethane bushes.
Front brake parts trickle in . Though no front calipers seem to be available.
Thoughts on window regulator rollers? Please .
Driver side front window
ksc
New Member
Thanks All .
fury fan
Senior Member
I have a buddy south of Indianapolis that has a bunch of driveshafts laying around.
If you get me the measurement between centerlines of both U-joints I can check with him. (I also have one laying around I can check).
Reman brake calipers went AWOL in the last year or so - you'll need to get some JY cores and rebuild kits.
See here: Introducing a 1970 300 TNT convertible
As for front sway bar:
The FF bar is an awesome piece vs factory and other aftermarket ones. But at a price.
Years ago I put a 1" bar from somebody (Addco?) on a car and it fit OK.
Most recent one is on my 300L (from PST, maybe) and the mounting bracketry absolutely sucks. Came with a bunch of typewritten instructions and sketches of the installation. I've tried the brackets numerous ways and nothing seems correct.
So research before you buy!
If you are on a budget there's a 15/16" bar as part of factory HD susp/towing packages. (IIRC that's the diameter)
Window rollers:
Is the circled item the remant of what you seek?
If so, could you make something out of some nylon spacers from mcmaster.com?
You could maybe buy something a little oversized, chuck it in a drillpress and grind it down?
If you get me the measurement between centerlines of both U-joints I can check with him. (I also have one laying around I can check).
Reman brake calipers went AWOL in the last year or so - you'll need to get some JY cores and rebuild kits.
See here: Introducing a 1970 300 TNT convertible
As for front sway bar:
The FF bar is an awesome piece vs factory and other aftermarket ones. But at a price.
Years ago I put a 1" bar from somebody (Addco?) on a car and it fit OK.
Most recent one is on my 300L (from PST, maybe) and the mounting bracketry absolutely sucks. Came with a bunch of typewritten instructions and sketches of the installation. I've tried the brackets numerous ways and nothing seems correct.
So research before you buy!
If you are on a budget there's a 15/16" bar as part of factory HD susp/towing packages. (IIRC that's the diameter)
Window rollers:
Is the circled item the remant of what you seek?
If so, could you make something out of some nylon spacers from mcmaster.com?
You could maybe buy something a little oversized, chuck it in a drillpress and grind it down?
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Any chance of rebuilding your calipers?
NAPA used to stock a rebuild kit.
ksc
New Member
Yeah the window regulator rollers right there next to my toe That's exactly what I'm talking about. That's funny ****. I was hoping that some b-body four-door rollers might be the same part number. But I haven't studied the parts books yet. Yep might try making my own I've got a little late here.
Yeah and it looks like I'm going to be dealing with firm feel for most suspension items sway bar etc etc. But that's going to come later I'm going to go with torsion bars and a suspension rebuild kit for now and reBush somehow my factory sway bar. I don't believe that is a 15/16 sway bar in my car. Maybe 7/8.
And for the drive shaft business I will give it a measure and let you know. It's not a very long shaft at all. But I sure would feel a lot better about it if it had all material in the yoke. I was considering some PC7. Just for some more surface contact area. That's some pretty good stuff PC7.
I was afraid of that on break calipers everybody's got left sides and nobody's got a right side or the other way around I don't recall right now. Yeah Good luck finding junkyard 73 calipers anymore for anything. I have the pin type calipers. I don't see the pins anywhere either.
Thanks a lot
ksc
New Member
Looks what I'll have to try. Everybody's got right calipers no left calipers anywhere or the other way around I don't recall. No pins anywhere either. I haven't checked mine yet
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
From a friend who is a counterman, the parts stores usually have rights and no lefts.
fury fan
Senior Member
Last I looked a few months ago, I couldn't find rights OR lefts. Nothing.
IIRC I found pins though.
IIRC I found pins though.
Mid70's Chrysler Fanatic
Well-Known Member
Why is that? Do C-bodies have a quirk that causes the left-side hardware to wear out faster - thus requiring frequent replacements that deplete the stores’ inventories?
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Mike doesn't know. He's running into the problem while converting his 65 Fury to 73 c-body brakes.
ksc
New Member
Where did you find the pins?
If ya don't mind sharing.
NAPA RockA and others I've checked recently all show one side (The same side) and not the other. Calipers that is.
ksc
New Member
I find that odd also.
Mid70's Chrysler Fanatic
Well-Known Member
Come to think of it, I’ve got a Dodge Dakota that started scoring the left rotor while the right side was still good. Granted, though, that this truck had about 180,000 miles on it, so I can’t rule out other problems (alignment, f¥€ked-up prior brake job, etc.,) unrelated to make and model.
fury fan
Senior Member
Hmmm. Just checked Rock Auto and a couple other places, seems the slider pins have silently gone AWOL also.
Back when I looked, pins were available but no calipers.
Today I see 1 caliper but no pins.
Here's a set for B-E bodies, but don't know if the bolts are the same length because the calipers are made for a 1" thick rotor instead of the 1-1/8" of a C-body.
MP500827 - 1970-74 Mopar B / E-Bodies - Brake Caliper Repair Set For Single Piston
Back when I looked, pins were available but no calipers.
Today I see 1 caliper but no pins.
Here's a set for B-E bodies, but don't know if the bolts are the same length because the calipers are made for a 1" thick rotor instead of the 1-1/8" of a C-body.
MP500827 - 1970-74 Mopar B / E-Bodies - Brake Caliper Repair Set For Single Piston
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