No spark while cranking?

[73 grancoupe]

I'm have problems with not getting a spark while ignition switch is turned to cranking but I will get a spark at run. The car is a 73 fury with tilting steering column so it has the delco style ignition switch. I replaced the switch with a new old stock and still having this issue. But sometimes it will start once I release the key to run after trying to crank it. I took the new switch off the column and notice if I grip it tightly I hear relays turning on and off could the new switch also be bad? Or is it something else?

 

[57fury440]

Check the Ballast Resistor.

 

[RemCharger]

Bad ballast would be where it runs in start, but not run.
Time to Crack out the test light.
Check for power from ignition, to ballast in crank mode

 

[73 grancoupe]

I forgot to say I changed that before I changed the switch with a new old stock Mopar ballast

 

[71Newp]

This is a classic example of a bad ICM. Either the ICM itself is bad or there is a bad ground. First try cleaning the surface where it attaches to the firewall and if that doesn't work you will need a new ICM.

 

[RemCharger]

Yep run a ground wire to the case, and bend the 5 pin female terminals to tighten them up.

 

[73 grancoupe]

I will give it a try thanks.

 

[1970FuryConv]

I'm have problems with not getting a spark while ignition switch is turned to cranking but I will get a spark at run. The car is a 73 fury with tilting steering column so it has the delco style ignition switch. I replaced the switch with a new old stock and still having this issue. But sometimes it will start once I release the key to run after trying to crank it. I took the new switch off the column and notice if I grip it tightly I hear relays turning on and off could the new switch also be bad? Or is it something else?

I had the exact same problem with my 1973 Monaco. Tilt column/Delco ignition, everything.
This ECM cured the problem.
for MOPAR HR7500 Electronic Ignition Module Dodge Plymouth Chrysler MAX RELIABLE | eBay

 

[1970FuryConv]

Note, when going to the 4-pin ECU, cut the dark green/red wire off the 5-pin connector. 4-pin ECU does not use auxiliary power. Also, you need a single ballast resistor. Second side of dual ballast resistor not needed with 4-pin.
Single ballast resistor
Blue is ignition run, brown is start.

5-pin (trash) vs. Rick's 4-pin

4-pin ECU and single ballast resistor cured the starting problem immediately.

 

[bronze turbine]

I had this same problem and it was the gap in the distributor from the rotor to the pickup. Needs to be very close.

 

[73 grancoupe]

If I go with the 4 pin I don't need the duel ballast anymore?

 

[RemCharger]

Correct.

 

[1970FuryConv]

If I go with the 4 pin I don't need the duel ballast anymore?

Yes, you use a single ballast resistor like the one pictured.
The second side of the dual ballast resistor regulates aux charge to the ECU. 4-pin does not use aux charge.

For reference on Dual Ballast resistor: computer control auxiliary side: once the circuit passes through the jumper wire at the top of the ballast resistor the current at start goes down through the 5 ohms side, auxiliary side of the ballast resistor to the dark green/red wire that gives power for the ECU to send to the distributor.

Dark green/red wire is 5th pin, unused with 4-pin ECU.

 

[carguy300]

I agree with all, I ran 4 pin on my last 300, after installing an upgrade electronic/ solid state wiring harness from Evans, and new starting, charging and running components, never had any issues after that.

 

[schwarzsurfer]

Hi all,
I bring up this old thread because I have the same issue and did not find a solution yet. My 72 Newport with factory electronic ignition does not produce a spark while cranking, but it does, when the ignition switch is in Run position.

I changed the coil, the pick up, the ballast resistor and the ignition box, but nothing changed. I measured all wires if there is the voltage that should be there, coil gehts about 8v in run and full 12v during start. Also checked IGN1 and IGN2 wiring, all fine and provides the voltage it should. Also measured the pins of the ignition box, has voltage where it should and resistance where it should.

Read about bad ground to the block, so removed the ground cable, cleaned everything, reassembled all parts, still no spark during cranking.

I am running out of ideas. The engine sometimes fires up, when I release the ignition switch from start and it goes to run position. Apparently sometimes there is enough momentum left from the starter so the engine still turns when the spark from Run position appears and then the engine runs normally.

Any ideas what else I could check?

Thank you so much.
Marian

 

[carguy300]

My 300 did that awhile back, all was new, The ballast resistor was wired wrong. It would try to start when I released the key to run, had a major back fire one time. Used wiring diagram for my model, it was my mistake. Mine only had 2 leads on it, yours may be different but thats what is was on mine.

 

[schwarzsurfer]

My 300 did that awhile back, all was new, The ballast resistor was wired wrong. It would try to start when I released the key to run, had a major back fire one time. Used wiring diagram for my model, it was my mistake. Mine only had 2 leads on it, yours may be different but thats what is was on mine.

Some years ago I did all the wiring new and the car drove well for 5 years now without any issue. So I assume it could not be a wrong connected wire. It just stopped producing sparks while cranking from one day to the other.

Maybe my batterie is dead and the voltage drops that much during cranking, that there is not enough power left to create sparks during start. I will check this today.

Greetings
Marian

 

[Big_John]

Hi all,
I bring up this old thread because I have the same issue and did not find a solution yet. My 72 Newport with factory electronic ignition does not produce a spark while cranking, but it does, when the ignition switch is in Run position.

I changed the coil, the pick up, the ballast resistor and the ignition box, but nothing changed. I measured all wires if there is the voltage that should be there, coil gehts about 8v in run and full 12v during start. Also checked IGN1 and IGN2 wiring, all fine and provides the voltage it should. Also measured the pins of the ignition box, has voltage where it should and resistance where it should.

Read about bad ground to the block, so removed the ground cable, cleaned everything, reassembled all parts, still no spark during cranking.

I am running out of ideas. The engine sometimes fires up, when I release the ignition switch from start and it goes to run position. Apparently sometimes there is enough momentum left from the starter so the engine still turns when the spark from Run position appears and then the engine runs normally.

Any ideas what else I could check?

Thank you so much.
Marian

Some years ago I did all the wiring new and the car drove well for 5 years now without any issue. So I assume it could not be a wrong connected wire. It just stopped producing sparks while cranking from one day to the other.

Maybe my batterie is dead and the voltage drops that much during cranking, that there is not enough power left to create sparks during start. I will check this today.

Greetings
Marian

You've thrown a bunch of parts at this and that may complicate things. New parts aren't necessarily good these days.

Run a jumper wire from the battery to the positive post on the coil. Now try starting the car. That bypasses everything and if it starts, the problem is somewhere in the ignition wiring.

If it starts, remove the jumper and check voltage at the coil while cranking the engine. You may have a wiring problem that isn't carrying enough current under load, but still shows voltage while not under load.

A bad battery would crank the engine slowly.

 

[Gerald Morris]

You've thrown a bunch of parts at this and that may complicate things. New parts aren't necessarily good these days.

OHHH SOOO TRUE! After removing the fried Lean Burn system from my '83 D150, I had to carefully assemble an ECM system for the truck. I did so, and it works very nicely, for now, but I don't trust that ECM, and will be getting an NOS one when funds come in....

Before doing anything following, check your battery voltage. A battery can retain enough charge to turn an engine even at 11.5 V, but it won't spark things up well.

Run a jumper wire from the battery to the positive post on the coil. Now try starting the car. That bypasses everything and if it starts, the problem is somewhere in the ignition wiring.

Yes, but folks need to be reminded to remove the hot wire to the coil from the ignition switch when doing this, in case there is a short or such. One must instruct folks about hot wiring carefully nowadaze....

If the motor doesn't start with a clean hot wire, you have a coil problem. If it does, proceed onward.

After getting the first hot wire start, then, replace the switched wire from your ignition switch. Try again. If it fails at this point, you have a serious short in the switch loop.

If it starts, remove the jumper and check voltage at the coil while cranking the engine. You may have a wiring problem that isn't carrying enough current under load, but still shows voltage while not under load.

YEP! If this is so, check the bulkhead connection. Oxidation there would produce enough resistance to impede startup voltage.

One quick, dirty test of this hypothesis would be to get a jump start on the system, as it is. If it jumps reliably just from somebody providing some extra voltage, then a bad connection well might be what's lurking. I had such an issue once.....

 

[Big_John]

Yes, but folks need to be reminded to remove the hot wire to the coil from the ignition switch when doing this, in case there is a short or such. One must instruct folks about hot wiring carefully nowadaze....

I think you want to leave that in place so it powers the ECU, but I could be wrong.

The car is a '72, and the electronic ignition was a factory option that year, so I assume it's been rewired like the factory did. There's a screwy "back feed" (for want of a better term) that comes back through the ballast resistor to limit current and power the ECU.

I think it's safe to assume the coil and ECU is OK as the car will occasionally fire as the key is let off.

I'm thinking the fault is in the ignition switch, bulkhead connector or wiring. Since it's been rewired, that also brings in the quality of wire and connectors/crimps.