Non Mopar Question

Mudeblue

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In addition to my 65 SF, I have a 1966 GTO. When I start the engine and release the key, the engine quits. If I slightly hold the key to the start position without re-engaging the engine, the engine remains running but when I release it, the engine dies. Research states that in older cars, there is a resistor in series with the coil which during starting reduces the voltage to the coil allowing more voltage to the starter. If this resistor is burned out, you get the condition I describe.

I know where this resistor is on my 65 SF but do not know if GM had this resistor and if so, where it is. Any thoughts? (Sorry if a GM question is disconcerting to anyone but I need the help).
 
I don’t understand why you you didn't first go to a GTO forum.
The odds you'll get proper help would increase a 100 fold.
 
There’s a resistor wire on GM products. It goes to the positive side of the coil along with a wire that comes from the starter that provides full voltage during cranking. Might have to peal back some tape to identify and inspect.
 
Research states that in older cars, there is a resistor in series with the coil which during starting reduces the voltage to the coil allowing more voltage to the starter.
You have this part backwards. There is full current to the coil during starting and drops back to the resistor wire when you release the key after the engine starts.

BTW, this is the exact same symptom (surprise surprise) of a bad Mopar ballast resistor and exactly how the Mopar system works too.

And do the "surprise surprise" in Gomer Pyle's voice for full dramatic effect.

5mc698.jpg
 
Now, the "trick" would be to get a LeMans wiring schematic to see where that resistor wire might be . . . A similar GM car as the LeMans might be the same, BUT some of the individual carlines did some different things from each other back then. Model year might not matter too much, but "carline division" would.
 
I don’t understand why you you didn't first go to a GTO forum.
The odds you'll get proper help would increase a 100 fold.
You missed the “subject” line and my “apology” in the last line. I intentionally included them knowing that there is always someone out there that will make a comment which contributes nothing. Thanks for not letting me down! As to a 100 fold, this forum is very active with very knowledgeable individuals with respect to classic cars who are more than happy to assist in resolving issues.
 
There’s a resistor wire on GM products. It goes to the positive side of the coil along with a wire that comes from the starter that provides full voltage during cranking. Might have to peal back some tape to identify and inspect.
Thanks. Will check out. My understanding is that Pontiacs during this era had starter problems because of a lack of a heat shield by the starter and this may be a related problem.
 
You have this part backwards. There is full current to the coil during starting and drops back to the resistor wire when you release the key after the engine starts.

BTW, this is the exact same symptom (surprise surprise) of a bad Mopar ballast resistor and exactly how the Mopar system works too.

And do the "surprise surprise" in Gomer Pyle's voice for full dramatic effect.

View attachment 609884
Thanks John. Your always an encyclopedia of knowledge; but, give me credit for being close!
 
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Now, the "trick" would be to get a LeMans wiring schematic to see where that resistor wire might be . . . A similar GM car as the LeMans might be the same, BUT some of the individual carlines did some different things from each other back then. Model year might not matter too much, but "carline division" would.
Thanks. The "GTO" prior to 1966 was a LeMans which just had a "GTO" trim package you could purchase for a couple of $100's. In 1966, the GTO became it's own model so technically one could argue there was no such thing as a GTO prior to 1966. Appreciate you input. I have all the technical manuals for the car but I could not find anyreference to my issue. Thanks again.
 
Thanks John. Your always an encyclopedia of knowledge; but, give me credit for being close!
Oh yea, you were close in that you knew it switched...

I've seen so many threads on here where there's no understanding of some very simple concepts and it's frustrating to me. You are seeing how it works and just need a little nudge to see it a little clearer.

I also wanted to point out that it's the same technology for the GM and the Mopars. People don't get that sometimes. Whenever I see "GM doesn't do it that way", nine out of ten times, the answer is "yes they do".

Please don't think I was trying to correct you for the sake of correcting you.

I did get to use my Gomer Pyle meme though... That is what I see as important.
 
It might be a technicality, but a "GTO" is the same body series as a normal "LeMans" Pontiac A-body car. In the early days of "GTO", it was an optioni package to get around some internal GM orientations. When GM discovered the GTO option was wildly popular and resulted in sales gains for Pontiac, they had to agree with DeLorean that it should be its own model. Until the 1982 Z/28 appeared, "Z/28" was purely an option package. Starting with the 1982 Camaros, the bodies knew what kind of Camaro they would exit the plant as, the Z/28 had its own VIN model designation (extra bracing and such for the Z/28s that the 4-cyl models did not get, for example).

Unlike GM, Chrysler made each of their performance cars with their own VIN model designation. That made it much harder to "clone" one of them. By comparison, there probably have been far more Z/28s sold than Chevy ever produced (due to "clones" in earlier times).

CBODY67
 
Oh yea, you were close in that you knew it switched...

I've seen so many threads on here where there's no understanding of some very simple concepts and it's frustrating to me. You are seeing how it works and just need a little nudge to see it a little clearer.

I also wanted to point out that it's the same technology for the GM and the Mopars. People don't get that sometimes. Whenever I see "GM doesn't do it that way", nine out of ten times, the answer is "yes they do".

Please don't think I was trying to correct you for the sake of correcting you.

I did get to use my Gomer Pyle meme though... That is what I see as important.
I admire your broad knowledge and appreciate your. Refreshing humor.
 
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If the resistor wire doesn't work, check your ignition switch. If there isn't 12 volts on the run circuit, it won't...well, run. I chased that demon once before. If it's an original piece or at the very least, replaced sometime ago it might be a good idea to check. Good luck
 
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