performance 1966 chrysler newport

I'll admit that "terrible idea" has a variety of meanings. From VERY terrible idea to "little bit" terrible idea. With a normal "bad idea" in the mix, too.

IF somebody tried to steer me away from doing something I'd read about, done on other cars, then I'd start doing research to find out why I was told that. THEN after doing my research, over time, I'd know why I was told that, possibly even discovering something better in the process. Research which included going to the popular car cruises, looking at cars, what had been done to them, and talking to the owners about their modifications. Noticing their tone of voice when talking about their modifications, in order to detect their enthusiasm with what they'd done, or otherwise. Then I'd also observe when they left and how the modifications affected how the car acted and drove off.

The Saturday and Sunday morning "Power Block" programming proved that "anything is possible", IF one has decent fabrication skills, backed by a shop full of metal breaks, welders, and cutters, among other things. NONE of it inexpensive, either. When many of us were 17 year olds, that sort of thing was usually only in race shops, to build race car chassis, bodies, and such. Places waayy above my capabilities to pay for.

One of the best riding/handling cars I ever drove was a friend's '71 'Cuda 383 with the optional HEMI suspension under it. A suspension which the magazines recommended against as it was "harsh". With its less sound deadening, it was quieter than our then-new '72 Newport Royal. There was one sweeping turn that had a washboard section to one side. My '66 Newport with HD shocks would side-step a bit on it, but that 'Cuda drove right through it smooth and flat, as if it was not there.

Body flex can be tricky. In the body design, there are some areas which are stronger to counter-act such flex, as others are designed to absorb it. Doing additional stiffening, up front, can do a lot to prevent later expensive repairs. I also DO know that Chrysler designs better UniBody cars than GM does, especially compared to the GM F-body Gen II Camaro/Firebirds. A friend noted "F-body" means "Flex Body". Sub-frame connectors are the norm on those cars if engine power and torque is increased very much. Not to mention on T-top cars. Sub-frame connectors would also benefit normal HD suspension cars, too. On my '77 LT, I also added all of the front sub-frame reinforcements to it, which did help steering feel a bit.

"AT tires", with their truck-chassis orientation, provide tire sidewalls which are stiffer than what we had back then. Tread designs and rubber compounds are better, too. They might look "different", but can be an incognito "performance tire" where normal perf tires are not built in that size anymore. Just have to get past the cosmetics on the sidewalls.

Weight removal can always signal a red light when a UniBody convertible is the car it is desired for. Convertibles already had stiffening in the floor pan to counter act the loss of the metal roof. The ONE exception was the '58-'60 T-birds, where a hradtop could be removed to make it into a convertible, with no additional stiffening needed as Ford over-designed that UniBody such that such was possible. As mentioned above, the best way to reduce weight in a Chrysler convertible is aluminum engine components (i.e., cyl heads, intake manifold) and even tubular exhaust headers. Only the very serious drag racers of the middle 1960s era "lightened" their cars (with acid-dipped fenders and a bit of Swiss cheese action), but then THEY had ready access to the OEM body designers to discover WHERE they could do that and not affect body integrity. Additionally, those cars were "throw-aways" rather than needing to last well past 100K miles on normal city streets and rough country roads.

The BAD thing about body flex is that it takes so long to appear, many times. Stiffen one part and the flex that part/area was supposed to absorb is transferred to a place that was not designed to deal with it. Which can then result in metal flex-breaks that must be repaired. Such breaks might be more prone on a non-C-body car because the C-body cars have more wheelbase length to absorb such flex than a smaller body vehicle does?

There is ONE thing I would recommend that ANY Chrysler Corp vehicle enthusiast do BEFORE getting involved in modifications. That is to attend the Mopar Nats and look at what others have done. It IS very possible that what one might be considering is there, so you can talk to the owners and find out what it took to do what they did (and you are considering doing). Plan on going for about five years straight, as what's there can change yearly.

It was at Mopar Nats that I discovered how deceptively EASY it was to put a B/RB engine in a '79 Dodge St. Regis/Chrysler Newport. In this case, the car started as a genuine police car (with factory dual exhausts). Only thing that had to be fabbed was the a/c line from the RV-2 compressor to the condenser. Everything else was "salvage yard" stuff. No chrome, just paint under the hood. Plus a LA-motor pie pan on a factory dual snorkel air cleaner. A great Malaise-era sleeper! He told the Chevy guys it was a 318, as they didn't know any better, except in a few cases.

One year, there was a high school auto shop class there with a 4-dr K-car. The car looked great in every nook and cranny I could see on the grass show field. The paint was "custom", but flawless. The custom interior was flawless. EVERYTHING was flawless. INCLUDING the Suicide Doors for the rear doors! Obviously, I suspect they took a worn-out car and completely remanufactured it, but added lots of things to replace the "stock" things in the process. Investing a huge amount of money in the process, but with a final product that was stunning and outstanding in the process. In many ways, "a terrible idea", but something that was totally unique and was an effective showcase for the skills they would use in the future to earn a living with. Their pride in the car was very evident as they prepped it for judging and made it look great. This was in the 1990s.

The ONE thing I really liked about the Mopar Nats was its INTERGENERATIONAL aspect. Lots of younger people with their cars, as there were grand-parents there to keep their grandkids while the parents were off searching for parts, cars, and other things. One year, I saw such under the Viper tent. By the convenience store near the end of the drag strip, I watched a high shcool guy put slicks on the front of his upgraded K-car, with a torque wrench, as his father AND grand-father watched nearby. I had never seen such at the many other non-Mopar events I'd ever attended!

When and if you do go to the Nats, BE IN SHAPE to be able to walk all day, non-stop, and then come back the next days and do it again. In 90 degree F heat and some damper humidity in the mornings. It WILL be enjoyable!

Enjoy!
CBODY67
I actually hadn't considered the AT tires I chose (Falken AT3W) for sidewall strength, though they seem to be perfect. They re the first tires I've had where I can run "normal" pressures without people stopping me to say I have a flat...

I wanted the traction because my C body ends up in places nobody with their head on straight would take theirs. I still have my Nexen N'priz tires on the steer right now to make sure tread wear is correct before throwing money at steer tires.
 
This in the type of environment that breeds "daddy taught me" knowledge I see today from people of that era as well as their children. Sometimes its true, Sometimes it isn't but across all of it they never seem to have the underlying knowledge of why they are doing what they are doing. The "youngsters" have access to, as well as the skills to use a huge wealth of knowledge from the internet.

I don't have to see what rich Bobby down the road did and copy him. I can read up on how someone on the other side of the planet did it, contact them and ask a few questions, then go to my (online) mechanical engineer / math buddy and have him run the math to make sure my ideas can be done safely, actually do it, then go back to each and share the results.

I think too many people here fall into the " I didn't do it so it must be bad" trope which causes new people to stay away. Luckily I didn't ask anyone here before I bought my Newport because I'd have steered clear if some dope told me I'd crack my C pillar in half if I put better heads on it. Now I know that if I make too much power I'll have to brace it but that's an actual helpful; answer rather than "don't try".


Entertainingly I've seen about the same arguments about what would happen if you put a big power v8 in a Porsche.

Reading about it, or hearing about it, or being told about it is a completely different thing than being able to see it done firsthand and then driving and riding in the car after it's done and then seeing what "additional" unforeseen work is needed to make it work right.
These old cars are absolutely touchy feely.
When I read about a modification on the internet, the first thing I ask myself is where's the rest of the story? The part where they had to add a host of band aids to get it to work. Or the part about how it doesn't work as stated. Or the part about how it cost more and took more effort than it was worth. Or the part about how it's no better than stock.
 
Reading about it, or hearing about it, or being told about it is a completely different thing than being able to see it done firsthand and then driving and riding in the car after it's done and then seeing what "additional" unforeseen work is needed to make it work right.
These old cars are absolutely touchy feely.
When I read about a modification on the internet, the first thing I ask myself is where's the rest of the story? The part where they had to add a host of band aids to get it to work. Or the part about how it doesn't work as stated. Or the part about how it cost more and took more effort than it was worth. Or the part about how it's no better than stock.
Maybe its a generational difference but nobody is "hiding" the hard parts now. While I hate the "short form" content cycle that is popular now the most important thing for a creator to do is generate more content. They happily show you their mistakes, their cobbled solutions, every broken bolt, and the carnage when they screw up bad.

I know historically people wanted to be seen as "pros" more and would hide all that.

If you really want to see it "first hand" that's still available too. You just aren't going to have much luck meeting people at midnight club if you're in bed by 7...
 
Reading about it, or hearing about it, or being told about it is a completely different thing than being able to see it done firsthand and then driving and riding in the car after it's done and then seeing what "additional" unforeseen work is needed to make it work right.
These old cars are absolutely touchy feely.
When I read about a modification on the internet, the first thing I ask myself is where's the rest of the story? The part where they had to add a host of band aids to get it to work. Or the part about how it doesn't work as stated. Or the part about how it cost more and took more effort than it was worth. Or the part about how it's no better than stock.
Yes, many magazine articles on modifications made it look so easy! Just a few hours, too. Looking at the Chilton's Flat Rate Manual gahve me an idea, being decently competent to change an intake manifold on my '67 Newport 383 4bbl. I worked on it after dinner. Took me one night for each flat rate hour. Plus changing some things tthat needed changing, in the process. That's when I realized that the magazines made it look easy, but left out about half of what the job really required.

CBODY67
 
Typically, I find that a on a book stated 2-hour job I'm halfway done at the 4-hour mark.
But I still make lots of deviation from factory stock stuff.
Factory parts no longer available, want more power, want better handling, want better mpg, want better reliability, want reduced maintenance, want better ride......Whatever I can "convince" myself can/needs be improved. Because, you see, I can make it better, stronger, faster....I want it all, and I want it now...
I've learned to think fast and jump slow. More often than not I get a result that's way to biased to one side of the factory compromise.
 
Yes, many magazine articles on modifications made it look so easy! Just a few hours, too. Looking at the Chilton's Flat Rate Manual gahve me an idea, being decently competent to change an intake manifold on my '67 Newport 383 4bbl. I worked on it after dinner. Took me one night for each flat rate hour. Plus changing some things tthat needed changing, in the process. That's when I realized that the magazines made it look easy, but left out about half of what the job really required.

CBODY67
I think this is the real difference. I can't say I've ever read an article relevant to my car in a magazine. Anything I've looked at is online where I can have a conversation with the person who did it. Of course it'll take longer than "shop time" in a garage without having done it 35 times before. Last time I decided to do a "quick manifold upgrade" I opened it up to see a destroyed cam. A month later it was back on the road.
 
You know what's really hilarious about this thread? The OP posted a week ago and hasn't been back since and here everyone is getting all twisted up about it...

IMHO, guys that ask these questions are dreamers 99 out of 100 times. It's just the way it is. The guys that can do the work just do it.... and the guys that dream... just dream about it. I get proven wrong every now and then.

Every once in a while we get someone that signs on here and asks about doing something to their car that is way out of their ability and understanding. For example, we had a rash of "airbag" type threads for a while. Can you fit a C-body with air bags? Sure you can... Is it a lot of work? Yep!! Then you read farther and the guy has no tools, no place to work, and no experience with old cars at all. But everybody gives their two cents... and then someone gets sand in their vagina about a comment and starts calling guys purists or some **** like that because they give advice that they don't like.

So, the OP isn't here, so obviously isn't reading the posts. And yet it goes on and on...

If you want my opinion about the car, some of what the OP wants isn't real practical. I've never seen aftermarket lightweight fiberglass fenders/hood etc. made for a C-body anywhere.... That doesn't mean it can't be done, it just means it isn't going to be easy. Convertibles are heavy by nature and have more body flex. That's just facts and I don't know if the OP understands this. Many things can be overcome with time, patience, skill and money... A project like this will take all that and more. It is his car to do with what he wants though... and maybe he has time, patience, skill, and money.
 
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hey yall, i haven’t replied in a while because i forgot my password and ive also been busy with school and projects but i wanted to give an update, i made this post last year to ask some questions about some fun stuff to do with my car and im glad to see this post got a good conversion going. some of yall can tell im younger and don’t have as much knowledge on automobiles as some but i’ve done as much research as i can and having my newport built the way i want has been the biggest thing on my mind but ive had one big obstacle, money! i have a good plan going currently, moneys tough to come by at 16 but i can usually find a way to work for some good cash, as of right now my most important two projects are a bmw im working on as my daily and a 1988 ford escort gt im fixing so i can sell it at pate and the money from that is gonna go towards the newport and i’m gonna do as much work over the summer as i can to get the budget to have this car how i like, i understand the cars a full sized 4020 curb weight beast but i believe this car is going to be a real unique piece of mopar machinery and there’s no other car i’d want to build than this one right here, it’s got lots of sentimental value, i bought it at 14 years old for 800 dollars wich at the time was about all my money i saved over the summer and my grandfather has taught me how to work on cars and really appreciate them, it really is a special car so i’m planning on doing my build and doing it right the first time, no cheap chinese parts, every supporting modifications, rebuild everything on the car, completely removing every spec of rust from the car and truly making one bad *** ride!!!

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hey yall, i haven’t replied in a while because i forgot my password and ive also been busy with school and projects but i wanted to give an update, i made this post last year to ask some questions about some fun stuff to do with my car and im glad to see this post got a good conversion going. some of yall can tell im younger and don’t have as much knowledge on automobiles as some but i’ve done as much research as i can and having my newport built the way i want has been the biggest thing on my mind but ive had one big obstacle, money! i have a good plan going currently, moneys tough to come by at 16 but i can usually find a way to work for some good cash, as of right now my most important two projects are a bmw im working on as my daily and a 1988 ford escort gt im fixing so i can sell it at pate and the money from that is gonna go towards the newport and i’m gonna do as much work over the summer as i can to get the budget to have this car how i like, i understand the cars a full sized 4020 curb weight beast but i believe this car is going to be a real unique piece of mopar machinery and there’s no other car i’d want to build than this one right here, it’s got lots of sentimental value, i bought it at 14 years old for 800 dollars wich at the time was about all my money i saved over the summer and my grandfather has taught me how to work on cars and really appreciate them, it really is a special car so i’m planning on doing my build and doing it right the first time, no cheap chinese parts, every supporting modifications, rebuild everything on the car, completely removing every spec of rust from the car and truly making one bad *** ride!!!

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Nice car , and good for you!!
(.. I got me a chrysler it's as big as a whale!! ..and it's about to set sail!!!..) :lol:
 
Thanks for the reply and information.

Just remember ONE thing, IF you build the car "as you desire", with "mods" and such, the farther you might get away from OEM stock production, the smaller your ultimate re-purchaser market will become. Not that some things are not allowed, just that as it is one of "not many produced" (as many C-body convertibles did not get past the 5000 produced level!) THAT in itself is more reason not to get too wild in what is done. Especially doing things which can not be easily un-done by a future owner, at some point in time.

As I believe we mentioned before, do the body work, the chassis mechanical stuff, and the interior stuff. Get to know the car and its characteristics. Being a Chrysler with torsion bar/leaf spring suspension gives it better roadability than other Ford and GM products, by observation, as the mild expense of a bit more road noise on un-concrete roadways. But I'll take that "better handling" over "a pillowy boulevard ride" any day. Eash has their place, but I came to love the Chrysler suspension characteristics. Which is ONE reason I'm not a fan of "bags". BTAIM

Keep us posted on your progress. Have a good time at Pate!
CBODY67
 
I'll admit that "terrible idea" has a variety of meanings. From VERY terrible idea to "little bit" terrible idea. With a normal "bad idea" in the mix, too.

IF somebody tried to steer me away from doing something I'd read about, done on other cars, then I'd start doing research to find out why I was told that. THEN after doing my research, over time, I'd know why I was told that, possibly even discovering something better in the process. Research which included going to the popular car cruises, looking at cars, what had been done to them, and talking to the owners about their modifications. Noticing their tone of voice when talking about their modifications, in order to detect their enthusiasm with what they'd done, or otherwise. Then I'd also observe when they left and how the modifications affected how the car acted and drove off.

The Saturday and Sunday morning "Power Block" programming proved that "anything is possible", IF one has decent fabrication skills, backed by a shop full of metal breaks, welders, and cutters, among other things. NONE of it inexpensive, either. When many of us were 17 year olds, that sort of thing was usually only in race shops, to build race car chassis, bodies, and such. Places waayy above my capabilities to pay for.

One of the best riding/handling cars I ever drove was a friend's '71 'Cuda 383 with the optional HEMI suspension under it. A suspension which the magazines recommended against as it was "harsh". With its less sound deadening, it was quieter than our then-new '72 Newport Royal. There was one sweeping turn that had a washboard section to one side. My '66 Newport with HD shocks would side-step a bit on it, but that 'Cuda drove right through it smooth and flat, as if it was not there.

Body flex can be tricky. In the body design, there are some areas which are stronger to counter-act such flex, as others are designed to absorb it. Doing additional stiffening, up front, can do a lot to prevent later expensive repairs. I also DO know that Chrysler designs better UniBody cars than GM does, especially compared to the GM F-body Gen II Camaro/Firebirds. A friend noted "F-body" means "Flex Body". Sub-frame connectors are the norm on those cars if engine power and torque is increased very much. Not to mention on T-top cars. Sub-frame connectors would also benefit normal HD suspension cars, too. On my '77 LT, I also added all of the front sub-frame reinforcements to it, which did help steering feel a bit.

"AT tires", with their truck-chassis orientation, provide tire sidewalls which are stiffer than what we had back then. Tread designs and rubber compounds are better, too. They might look "different", but can be an incognito "performance tire" where normal perf tires are not built in that size anymore. Just have to get past the cosmetics on the sidewalls.

Weight removal can always signal a red light when a UniBody convertible is the car it is desired for. Convertibles already had stiffening in the floor pan to counter act the loss of the metal roof. The ONE exception was the '58-'60 T-birds, where a hradtop could be removed to make it into a convertible, with no additional stiffening needed as Ford over-designed that UniBody such that such was possible. As mentioned above, the best way to reduce weight in a Chrysler convertible is aluminum engine components (i.e., cyl heads, intake manifold) and even tubular exhaust headers. Only the very serious drag racers of the middle 1960s era "lightened" their cars (with acid-dipped fenders and a bit of Swiss cheese action), but then THEY had ready access to the OEM body designers to discover WHERE they could do that and not affect body integrity. Additionally, those cars were "throw-aways" rather than needing to last well past 100K miles on normal city streets and rough country roads.

The BAD thing about body flex is that it takes so long to appear, many times. Stiffen one part and the flex that part/area was supposed to absorb is transferred to a place that was not designed to deal with it. Which can then result in metal flex-breaks that must be repaired. Such breaks might be more prone on a non-C-body car because the C-body cars have more wheelbase length to absorb such flex than a smaller body vehicle does?

There is ONE thing I would recommend that ANY Chrysler Corp vehicle enthusiast do BEFORE getting involved in modifications. That is to attend the Mopar Nats and look at what others have done. It IS very possible that what one might be considering is there, so you can talk to the owners and find out what it took to do what they did (and you are considering doing). Plan on going for about five years straight, as what's there can change yearly.

It was at Mopar Nats that I discovered how deceptively EASY it was to put a B/RB engine in a '79 Dodge St. Regis/Chrysler Newport. In this case, the car started as a genuine police car (with factory dual exhausts). Only thing that had to be fabbed was the a/c line from the RV-2 compressor to the condenser. Everything else was "salvage yard" stuff. No chrome, just paint under the hood. Plus a LA-motor pie pan on a factory dual snorkel air cleaner. A great Malaise-era sleeper! He told the Chevy guys it was a 318, as they didn't know any better, except in a few cases.

One year, there was a high school auto shop class there with a 4-dr K-car. The car looked great in every nook and cranny I could see on the grass show field. The paint was "custom", but flawless. The custom interior was flawless. EVERYTHING was flawless. INCLUDING the Suicide Doors for the rear doors! Obviously, I suspect they took a worn-out car and completely remanufactured it, but added lots of things to replace the "stock" things in the process. Investing a huge amount of money in the process, but with a final product that was stunning and outstanding in the process. In many ways, "a terrible idea", but something that was totally unique and was an effective showcase for the skills they would use in the future to earn a living with. Their pride in the car was very evident as they prepped it for judging and made it look great. This was in the 1990s.

The ONE thing I really liked about the Mopar Nats was its INTERGENERATIONAL aspect. Lots of younger people with their cars, as there were grand-parents there to keep their grandkids while the parents were off searching for parts, cars, and other things. One year, I saw such under the Viper tent. By the convenience store near the end of the drag strip, I watched a high shcool guy put slicks on the front of his upgraded K-car, with a torque wrench, as his father AND grand-father watched nearby. I had never seen such at the many other non-Mopar events I'd ever attended!

When and if you do go to the Nats, BE IN SHAPE to be able to walk all day, non-stop, and then come back the next days and do it again. In 90 degree F heat and some damper humidity in the mornings. It WILL be enjoyable!

Enjoy!
CBODY67
My dad had a new 1960 T-Bird. What 1960 T-Birds had a lift off top? No such thing. The earlier 1955-1957 T-Birds had a lift off top, but not the bigger ones from 1958-1960.
 
My dad had a new 1960 T-Bird. What 1960 T-Birds had a lift off top? No such thing. The earlier 1955-1957 T-Birds had a lift off top, but not the bigger ones from 1958-1960.
Starting with the 1958 model year, T-bird convertibles had their "folding hardtop" that went into the trunk. A LOT of wiring and sensors that ran the hydraulics. Much like the full-size Ford retractable hardtops from 1957-1959. Marvels of analog engineering! That same feature was included in the re-designed 1961 Lincolns, too. Their "trademark" convertible cars, as it was with the T-birds.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Thanks for the reply and information.

Just remember ONE thing, IF you build the car "as you desire", with "mods" and such, the farther you might get away from OEM stock production, the smaller your ultimate re-purchaser market will become. Not that some things are not allowed, just that as it is one of "not many produced" (as many C-body convertibles did not get past the 5000 produced level!) THAT in itself is more reason not to get too wild in what is done. Especially doing things which can not be easily un-done by a future owner, at some point in time.

As I believe we mentioned before, do the body work, the chassis mechanical stuff, and the interior stuff. Get to know the car and its characteristics. Being a Chrysler with torsion bar/leaf spring suspension gives it better roadability than other Ford and GM products, by observation, as the mild expense of a bit more road noise on un-concrete roadways. But I'll take that "better handling" over "a pillowy boulevard ride" any day. Eash has their place, but I came to love the Chrysler suspension characteristics. Which is ONE reason I'm not a fan of "bags". BTAIM

Keep us posted on your progress. Have a good time at Pate!
CBODY67
value of the car isn’t much of a concern, i’ll never sell it! i’m planning on giving this car to my grandchildren one day and teaching my kids and grandkids how to work on them
 
i’ll never sell it! i’m planning on giving this car to my grandchildren one day and teaching my kids and grandkids how to work on them

The problem with keeping things 'for the kids' is assuming they have the same passion for something that you do, they want to take possession of what you are saving for them or have a place to put what you think is important. What if the grandkids have NO interest in stinky old antique cars and live in appartment in NYC with no place to store a car?

Don't do that or even entertain that thought. Enjoy it because that's YOUR passion and YOU want it. Plan on the kids NOT caring and selling it in your retirement before it becomes a burden to the kids. If by happenstance, one of the kids does take an interest so much the better but don't plan on it or force it on them if they don't want it.

My family is going through generational transfer right now. We threw out and gave away a lot of what used to be 'important' items we "have to save for the kids" that no one in the family knows what they are, needs, really wants or can take possession of. Don't burden the kids with YOUR stuff.
 
The problem with keeping things 'for the kids' is assuming they have the same passion for something that you do, they want to take possession of what you are saving for them or have a place to put what you think is important. What if the grandkids have NO interest in stinky old antique cars and live in appartment in NYC with no place to store a car?

Don't do that or even entertain that thought. Enjoy it because that's YOUR passion and YOU want it. Plan on the kids NOT caring and selling it in your retirement before it becomes a burden to the kids. If by happenstance, one of the kids does take an interest so much the better but don't plan on it or force it on them if they don't want it.

My family is going through generational transfer right now. We threw out and gave away a lot of what used to be 'important' items we "have to save for the kids" that no one in the family knows what they are, needs, really wants or can take possession of. Don't burden the kids with YOUR stuff.
Another side of that deal is, as some have seen in the past, that "the kids" get an inherited car and although "my father loved that car", it is now theirs to deal with. If finding someone to work on it is hard now, it will get worse in the future, no doubt. Then, they "use" the car daily, allegedly "proud" of it, but it then falls into disrepair of their do further trendy things to "mod" it to their pleasure (as it is now theirs), which further "ruins" the car from what it should be. Many have seen some "going to save it" vehicles sit in a garage and get covered in neglect, or worse, outside.

Build the car, everybody ENJOY the car, educate the kids on the cars of that bygone era, too. Then, when the time comes, find a motivated buyer who wants the car and will take care of it as it needs to be taken care of, for best results. Sell the car. If it makes the kids "mad", so be it. Let them find their own "old car" after THEY understand what it takes to take care of one AND afford to do so. They might like the car, but are unprepared (physically and financially) to do it justice. In YOU selling the car, your cherished Chrysler, YOU are controlling its destiny in a way that YOU control.

When WE were your age, even into our 20s, one of the "bad deals" was when a wife filed for divorce. In many cases, she got the car that HE had spent time and effort to correctly restore, in a time when needed parts were sourced from salvage yards rather than via plastic card. So she got the restored car (as his friends watched and mourned) in the divorce. It sat outside, as "a car", was used daily as her main transportation (as "a car"), so much of what he labored to fix "went to pot". As his friends watched, as they were on the lookout for her to ever sell the car. Then it got traded-in on a new car, somewhere along the line. In some cases, it seemed the spouse was doing these things to spite her husband, unfortunately, because "she could".

Live and enjoy the car in the present. One never knows what the future might bring (especially in the changing TX weather patterns!). DO keep it well-insured!!!

At this point in time, I am trying to get motivated to start a "pre-estate" estate sale of sorts. No kids, so nobody to "clean up my accumulation of Chrysler parts". One thing I did was to buy parts ONLY for cars I had and would use them on, but many times, never used. As back then, repro Chrysler parts were not nearly what they currently are.

Just some observations,
CBODY67
 
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don’t worry yall i won’t leave texas red to someone who doesn’t want it, it’ll be my kids choice if they wanna be interested in it and i’ll be more than happy to help them get their own project if they want to fix something up, i won’t ever want to sell it but one day if there’s still a market when im old i’ll make sure its in a good home and if/when a divorce a unfortunately happens my crazy uncle always told me two things, wear a rubber and get a prenup lol
 
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