power steering return hose

Every old car is loaded with incorrect "Aeroquip" worm clamps, because that's what everyone did when replacing something over the past 45 years...fuel pumps and filters, coolant hoses, power steering returns....everything. That's because they were easier to use than Corbins (that shot around the garage like bullets if you didn't have a proper Corbin plier), worked better, and looked "cool and modern". And didn't seep. But now, we're buying repop clamps and making everything look OEM. At least I am........I've been researching every friggin' clamp, strap and fastener under the hood of 69/70 300s.

See this olive green clamp on my new breather? WRONG! Supposed to be black. :p I found black clamps a few weeks ago. Here's the correct black clamp:
IMG_3788[1].JPG


As for seeping, here's a tip for using Corbins, spring clamps and crimp-style fuel clamps: Once installed, twist and pull on the hose to "seat" the inside of the hose (at the clamp's location) up against the raised "flare" portion of the nipple. To make this work for you, don't place the clamp at the very end of the hose, far from the nipple flare. You'll want to place it just immediately past the flare so only a very tiny pull on the hose will seat that clamp nicely. This tip applies mostly to coolant and power steering return hoses, as the crimp-type fuel clamps (if anyone bothers to use them for totally correct restoration) really put the squeeze on the fuel hose if done properly. Properly! However, I use worms for fuel, and cheat by painting them matte black with a small brush once installed. I don't much like gasoline fires.

Finally, this tip doesn't seem to be needed for the large upper/lower rad hoses. I speculate that this is because the large diameter provides a nice, even tension on the hose/nipple surface. But if your rad hoses are weeping, you might try cleaning the components and re-positioning the Corbins close to the flare area....and give 'em a little tug.

IMG_3787[1].JPG
 
Last edited:
My bad @Trace 300 Hurst , I broke the rules.

I did not identify the year I was looking at when I hijacked this old post.
68 Dodge Polara 2dr ht 383.
May be different than your 70.
Don and I have been talking on other subjects, so he knew the year.
 
Yes, sorry about that. To be fair what is correct for a 70 300 most likely will not be correct for a 68 Polara. Vendors can change, assembly lines can be different.
 
Yes, sorry about that. To be fair what is correct for a 70 300 most likely will not be correct for a 68 Polara. Vendors can change, assembly lines can be different.

Indeed, but your input for that NOS return hose package was quite informative. After all, those clamps you showed ARE red, which further demonstrates that "Hey, Mack, use the RED clamps on the PS hose." was how the assembly line tried to speed up the process and reduce mistakes.

Every high-end E-bod and later B-bods, and the four Hursts at Kissimmee all had the red spring/band-style clamps....and these would be '70 and up cars. But of course, small variations are the root of the restoration industry, and then there's just bad info and mistakes made at any level of restoration.

There was a spectacular white 65 lightweight hemi Dodge Super Stock there. Total history, fantastic resto work....and Galen Govier's report (provided by the seller) found all sorts of very tiny nitpicks on that car! Can YOU see what's wrong in this pic? Neither can I!!

IMG_3779[1].JPG
 
Last edited:
Traced 300 Hurst. Those clamps are used on ALL the modern Moparz. Their Metric but the work. While in the Bone Yardz I call 'um "Pocket Stuff" Those were All Over under the hood on My '61 440(mother Made it with ah 413, But)
Batwagon 'cuz clampz have improved sense Metric came on board. Did I say that? Jer
 
Last edited:
There was a spectacular white 65 lightweight hemi Dodge Super Stock there. Total history, fantastic resto work....and Galen Govier's report (provided by the seller) found all sorts of very tiny nitpicks on that car! Can YOU see what's wrong in this pic? Neither can I!!

View attachment 246459[/QUOTE]

I would be very proud to own that Race Hemi. I wouldnt change a thing..... But since you asked... I see 2 things...
1 The fuel filters should be plastic. Now I would never use these on a driver
2 Why are the fender bolts not body color? Even with the aluminum fenders, weren't they painted after assembly? I don't know the answer to this and maybe they were not and the bolts are correct...

If anyone here owns that car, I love it....Nice job!
 
Wow....sharp eye. The report I read by Glovier didn't mention those two things, so maybe you're better than he is!

I'm certainly not sure about either of your observations. I thought the metal filters were correct, as they're on a lot of other high-zoot restorations. As for the bolts, it would seem you're right, but maybe the lightweights--that were hand built--used unpainted fasteners. It would seem like a "mistake" as obvious as that wouldn't be overlooked by the restorer, so.....maybe it's correct. Dunno.

Believe me, the car was amazing to drool over.
 
2 Why are the fender bolts not body color? Even with the aluminum fenders, weren't they painted after assembly? I don't know the answer to this and maybe they were not and the bolts are correct...

I just read a story by Steve Magnante in Mopar Tech Special about these cars. The basic car ran down the assembly line so as not to disturb normal operations, and only a very few things were added or modified that were part of the lightweight package. The race hemi was installed on the line as per normal. After that, the car was driven to a nearby "modifications center" close by the plant, where the thin gauge (not acid-dipped) fenders, hood, scoop, doors, bumper, and assorted brackets were added. So.....these items were painted separate from the car....meaning unpainted bolts would be correctomundo. Since it was a race car that was likely to get painted, there was no big deal with any slight variance in the paint.
 
The filters may be a difference between "Assembly line correct" and the correct over the counter replacement parts. Max wedge and the race hemi had plastic filters along with some other models. At some point it was decided that maybe this was a fire hazard....cracking, melting, what ever. So all fuel filters were changed to steel.
Google 60's mopar plastic fuel filters.

As far as the bolts go I would guess your most likely correct.
 
In the pic below is a fairly original untouched big block engine bay from a 1966 Newport. It has its' Corbin clamps on it too (not red) as far as I can make out. It matches what's on my two 66s for power steering return hoses. They are actually molded, and have their own part number, which now supercedes to straight power steering hose. I managed to find two correct NOS molded hoses a number of years ago.

Anyhow, you can see the way it's routed, and that the bend near the top is quite tight. This reduces strain on the bung that's on the power steering pump reservoir, and allows the remaining 18" or so of hose to curve gently to the return bung on the steering box.

I've never seen such a short hose as I've seen on yours, and it sets off all my warning bells. One good tromp on the accelerator that engine lifts at all and sooner or later you will have a separation!

For what it's worth, all the PS return hose clamps I've dealt with on 66s have not been red, but regular cad coated colour. Perhaps that's a later 67 and up thing...

100_3184.JPG
 
Every old car is loaded with incorrect "Aeroquip" worm clamps, because that's what everyone did when replacing something over the past 45 years...fuel pumps and filters, coolant hoses, power steering returns....everything. That's because they were easier to use than Corbins (that shot around the garage like bullets if you didn't have a proper Corbin plier), worked better, and looked "cool and modern". And didn't seep. But now, we're buying repop clamps and making everything look OEM. At least I am........I've been researching every friggin' clamp, strap and fastener under the hood of 69/70 300s.

See this olive green clamp on my new breather? WRONG! Supposed to be black. :p I found black clamps a few weeks ago. Here's the correct black clamp:
View attachment 246439

As for seeping, here's a tip for using Corbins, spring clamps and crimp-style fuel clamps: Once installed, twist and pull on the hose to "seat" the inside of the hose (at the clamp's location) up against the raised "flare" portion of the nipple. To make this work for you, don't place the clamp at the very end of the hose, far from the nipple flare. You'll want to place it just immediately past the flare so only a very tiny pull on the hose will seat that clamp nicely. This tip applies mostly to coolant and power steering return hoses, as the crimp-type fuel clamps (if anyone bothers to use them for totally correct restoration) really put the squeeze on the fuel hose if done properly. Properly! However, I use worms for fuel, and cheat by painting them matte black with a small brush once installed. I don't much like gasoline fires.

Finally, this tip doesn't seem to be needed for the large upper/lower rad hoses. I speculate that this is because the large diameter provides a nice, even tension on the hose/nipple surface. But if your rad hoses are weeping, you might try cleaning the components and re-positioning the Corbins close to the flare area....and give 'em a little tug.

View attachment 246428


Yup, Corbins ALWAYS have to be seated right at the flare. I've used them for years on my green Monaco with no leaks.
 
For 65 -68, band style spring clamps are NOT the correct ones for power steering, OR fuel lines or main brake booster vacuum line. They used the spring wire Corbin clamps. The little tiny ones were used all the way from the tank to the front last metal line to the carb after the fuel filter - where ever there was a flared metal to rubber connection. I went through about a dozen 66 Monacos to get correct parts to restore my first Monaco - the only worm clamps I ever saw were service replacements. Flatband spring clamps just were not on the car ANYWHERE.

And those spring wire Corbins are a PITA if you don't have the right tool like this:

tyr801.jpg


One of the best things I ever bought. They lock in place to hold the clamp open, and release to set the clamp right by the flare as required. Worth every penny.

Using regular pliers or other tools to do the job can put burrs on the clamp which can damage a rubber hose.
 
Indeed, but your input for that NOS return hose p
....
There was a spectacular white 65 lightweight hemi Dodge Super Stock there. Total history, fantastic resto work....and Galen Govier's report (provided by the seller) found all sorts of very tiny nitpicks on that car! Can YOU see what's wrong in this pic? Neither can I!!

View attachment 246459

I see a problem....MY NAME ISN'T ON THE DAMNNED TITLE!!! WAAAHHHH!
 
Back
Top