Pulling in neutral

[Dante64]

Greeting Gents,
Just had a complete rebuild on my 64 Newport transmission. Push button gear selector, 727 auto. Upon first start when cold, the car rolls forward a bit. Definitely unnerving. Has anyone experienced this? Before I bring it back to the shop. Any information is greatly appreciated, as always, from our vast group of knowledgeable Gentlemen here.
Thank You.

 

[SIPLOWGUY]

Check the adjustment of the cables. Maybe the transmission is not fully in neutral.

 

[Big_John]

Is the car in park when this happens?

I agree that the first thing to check is the cables.

 

[mgm1986]

Following. Mine does the same when started in Neutral. Especially noticeable when the car is on jack stands and started in neutral.

 

[Dante64]

Check the adjustment of the cables. Maybe the transmission is not fully in neutral.

As I just got it back from a $4k transmission job… I would like to assume all adjustments are correctly done. Yes, it’s in neutral/park.

 

[Dante64]

Is the car in park when this happens?

I agree that the first thing to check is the cables.

I’ll bring it back to the shop. I’m not messing with cables I have no idea about. Thanks for the quick reply.

 

[mgm1986]

I’ll bring it back to the shop. I’m not messing with cables I have no idea about. Thanks for the quick reply.

That is exactly what I would do. If you find out the cause and could let us know here that would be hugely helpful.

Good luck, probably/hopefully a simple adjustment!

 

[Big_John]

I would like to assume all adjustments are correctly done.

Having messed around with them just a little, I can tell you it doesn't surprise me if they need to be adjusted again. They can be tough to get them right to begin with, but sometimes more adjustment is needed after it's driven a bit. Don't fault the shop too much....

 

[Big_John]

Following. Mine does the same when started in Neutral. Especially noticeable when the car is on jack stands and started in neutral.

That is exactly what I would do. If you find out the cause and could let us know here that would be hugely helpful.

Good luck, probably/hopefully a simple adjustment!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you have a '68?

Different deal all together, no cables on yours, no rear pump etc. Your starting in neutral on jack stands will just about always get the rear wheels turning due to the fluid spinning around in the internals. In other words, it's normal.

 

[mgm1986]

@Big_John - Yes, mine is a '68 and I am glad you chimed; I was planning to post about this at the end of the season as it didn't seem right. Saved me a thread!

 

[413]

Cable adjustment. Next thing is the rear clutch clearance is too tight will make it do this.

Also a valve body problem giving pressure where is shouldn't be a in N.

How does this job cost $4000?

 

[Lefty71]

Also a valve body problem giving pressure where is shouldn't be a in N.

This!
Other posts are all correct.....check the cable first. If all other tips come up empty, check the valve body cracks.... pushbutton VBs are more prone....i have some pix of where to look ( have to find ).

 

[CBODY67]

1968, unlike the earlier model in the picture, would be all metal rods and such. Still, adjustments to ensure the "shift comb" inside the transmission is where it fully needs to be with the shift lever in "N" or "P". A slide adjustment of sorts, as I recall. Detailed in the FSM. 1965 and earlier would have used "shift cables" rather than metal rod linkage.

The parasitic drag of the fluid running through the transmission CAN turn the rear wheels with them suspended and not touching, BUT not enough solid power there to "drive the car" in "N". Starting the car in "N", with the foot brake depressed, might cure the issue until you can get it back to the shop for inspection.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Lefty71]

Following. Mine does the same when started in Neutral. Especially noticeable when the car is on jack stands and started in neutral.

Pretty sure this can happen to any of them, regardless of the vintage. Ive seen it even in aftermarket and modified valve bodies.

 

[Dante64]

Cable adjustment. Next thing is the rear clutch clearance is too tight will make it do this.

Also a valve body problem giving pressure where is shouldn't be a in N.

How does this job cost $4000?

To address your last question. It’s a good one. There are no shops in driving distance that can handle this job correctly. I could have searches for weeks to find someplace hours away to save ??? Ho knows how much. The place is top shelf and hundreds of 5 Star reviews. I played around with the carburetor to save money. Finally gave it to a pro and it’s like new. Runs 100%. I’ll consult the Chrysler shop manual and see about these cables.

 

[Dante64]

This!
Other posts are all correct.....check the cable first. If all other tips come up empty, check the valve body cracks.... pushbutton VBs are more prone....i have some pix of where to look ( have to find ).

new valve body installed. old one was cracked. Thanks. I’m going to do some homework and get under there.

 

[RemCharger]

In other words, it's normal.

Pretty sure this can happen to any of them, regardless of the vintage. Ive seen it even in aftermarket and modified valve bodies.

^^^ 100% normal. Just the Initial fillng of the hydraulic systems.
I'd hate to see someone chase that ghost with their wallet..

 

[Chryslerdon]

Cable adjustment. Next thing is the rear clutch clearance is too tight will make it do this.

Also a valve body problem giving pressure where is shouldn't be a in N.

How does this job cost $4000?

As someone who rebuilds 727's, A466, and Powerflites's, I find it highway robbery that someone would charge that much for a simple trans. It's easy to remove, and parts are not a problem.

 

[Dante64]

As someone who rebuilds 727's, A466, and Powerflites's, I find it highway robbery that someone would charge that much for a simple trans. It's easy to remove, and parts are not a problem.

Thank You for that comment, Brother. There is no doubt I payed too much for this job. Time will tell how bad I got hosed. The car drives great. The rocking upon startup is almost un-noticeable. I’m just super sensitive to these things. I feel/hear things, as the owner, nobody else does. Water under the bridge. On to the heater core and valve replacement. $200 to get my core rebuilt from the outfit that did my radiator. very please with them. Kept my original tanks. Fingers crossed. Cheers.

 

[Dante64]

^^^ 100% normal. Just the Initial fillng of the hydraulic systems.
I'd hate to see someone chase that ghost with their wallet..

Condition has all but gone away since I’ve put some miles on it. Thanks!