Putting Fan Clutch on a Non A/C Car?
- Thread starter Mr onetwo
- Start date
Bart
Member
I know the original subject has taken a back seat, but any clutch fan from a Mopar or GM vehicle from the late 1970's through mid-1980's is a direct bolt-on. Some fans are reverse rotation in the later years, so make sure the blades are angled the same as your original fan, and you will be fine. No spacer needed, and if you find the blades are too close to the radiator, you can shim it back a little with washers.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
How do you "shim it back"?
Bart
Member
The fan attaches to the back of the clutch if you place a washer or two between the fan and clutch, it moves the fan closer to the engine. You may need longer bolts, but it works very well.
ceebuddy
Well-Known Member
I am not sure if adding a clutch will actually save so much fuel in the first place. Or can anyone testify as to what mileage improvement can be achieved - on a 1968 C-Body with big block engine?
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
It absolutely will at highway speeds at autobahn speeds well at 100 mph who is worried about fuel mileage.
Those trans fittings are going to leak. If you want to fix a problem get rid of the f#&king female flare nuts that get stuck and you round the brass fitting because you have to use a open end wrench instead of a line wrench. Big female fittings into the case to male flare nuts on the lines, no more twisted lines.
Those trans fittings are going to leak. If you want to fix a problem get rid of the f#&king female flare nuts that get stuck and you round the brass fitting because you have to use a open end wrench instead of a line wrench. Big female fittings into the case to male flare nuts on the lines, no more twisted lines.
68plymouth383
Senior Member
I'm of the mentality that if you use the correct parts, or what is designed to work you'll be fine. Shimming a fan, using longer spacers ect is a no no!! If you're fan was a direct drive no clutch, and you want to go with a clutch get all corresponding parts to make the complete swap. Mixing, and matching gets you in trouble quick. Yes it can be done. Yes other manufacturers used similar systems. Keep with what ma mopar designed it with...
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Yah. That's done often. I just never heard, Shim back before. lmao
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I assumed it was just me. Honest.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
What was just you, having trouble with those female flare nuts?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Hating those inaccessible soft brass fittings getting enough grip on them with open end wrenches and not rounding them..:rant:.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
You had one that didn't round and you had to get the vice grips, must have been loose and leaking.:eusa_doh:
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I learned a technique using a very small needle nose VISE-GRIP grasping firmly on the flats of the fitting, using penetrating oil and a light rocking back & forth motion...
But I won't share it here...
But I won't share it here...
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Twist it off do what said above I have no patience
I am sorry for the long delay on finishing up this thread, but it has been long (not so fun) summer. I have finished up the trans cooler install and put the new fan and cooling system parts on the car. We finally started the car Friday and it ran for a total of 15 minutes on gas dribbled thru the carb. Would not stay running on it's owm, but that is another thread. The subjects of this thread leak-free and appear to be functioning fine!:yaayy: Now for the photos....note that I am not 100% satisfied with the line routing under the motor mount and may bend up new lines at some point in the future. I am also going to fab a guard for the lines where they pass thru the rad support.
mount is fabbed out of 3/8" pencil iron and 14 x 1 1/2 flat bar.....more pics to follow
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
Yeah! You had me concerned when I saw stainless fittings destined for an aluminum case! Brass is more better.
Nice mounting job. I hope you saved the plastic ties for a suitable project.
Nice mounting job. I hope you saved the plastic ties for a suitable project.
Stainless? The fittings threaded into the case are zinc coated steel.Brass AN ftgs are too soft.The ty-wraps are to hold split rubber tubing that protects the bent lines from abrasion...nothing more.Only non AN connections are the lined worm drive clamps on the rubber/steel vibration connections between the engine and the radiator.
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