Queer car

CBODY67 said:
Make the trans a non-lock-up converter unit. I've put two torque converters in my '80 Newport 360 2bbl as the heat treat on the splines was not good or went away, with the lock-up converters.
Click to expand...
It could be a lock up issue, I forget what the car is.
 
CBODY67 said:
Doesn't the Chry V10 have the LA bellhousing bolt pattern on the block, since that's the basic architecture it was expanded from?

A stroker 408 LA motor would fit better in the Imperial, with a modern self-learn EFI on it, too. Or even a salvage yard 360 EFI motor, for that matter. Most of the Imperial's EFI is in on the air cleaner base "plate", as I recall. If it's running flakily, it might just need the band clamp on the air cleaner secured with NO air leaks around the edge of the air cleaner . . . as simple as that might sound, the MAF is in the air cleaner snorkle. Remove the air cleaner top with the engine running, loss of air flow signal kills the engine.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Click to expand...
The V10 uses the cummins pickup bellhousing pattern in order to use a bigger Converter / clutch

A stroker 408 would make just as much power as a basic V10 and cost 3 times as much. Plus, why not have a 10 cylinder in a fat car? 8 isn't enough sometimes :D
 
CBODY67 said:
Make the trans a non-lock-up converter unit. I've put two torque converters in my '80 Newport 360 2bbl as the heat treat on the splines was not good or went away, with the lock-up converters.
Click to expand...
I dont think the converter is bad, I think its the trans / rear end. I've already established that a guys budget is very limited to begin with and the V10 swap wouldn't be anything anytime soon. But I will keep that in mind for future reference ;)
 
@dagwoodspolara got himself an Imperial that had the conversion done, it scoots a little quicker than the Lean Burn did in my 84 Fifth Avenue. Got me by two car lengths when I got a good jump. For $800, I'd already have that Imperial in my driveway.
 
LocuMob said:
@dagwoodspolara got himself an Imperial that had the conversion done, it scoots a little quicker than the Lean Burn did in my 84 Fifth Avenue. Got me by two car lengths when I got a good jump. For $800, I'd already have that Imperial in my driveway.
Click to expand...
Yeah but the rats already got to the car. When I got the newport I had $1500 and it was either that car, the 83 imperial, or a 65 plymouth fury II sedan
 
Blish said:
The V10 uses the cummins pickup bellhousing pattern in order to use a bigger Converter / clutch

A stroker 408 would make just as much power as a basic V10 and cost 3 times as much. Plus, why not have a 10 cylinder in a fat car? 8 isn't enough sometimes :D
Click to expand...
www.magnum488.com confirms what will bolt to the back of the V-10, mentioning the necessary larger clutch or torque converter specifically.

Only issue might be the total length of the engine, which might be "fixed" with a pusher cooling fan set-up?

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
CBODY67 said:
www.magnum488.com confirms what will bolt to the back of the V-10, mentioning the necessary larger clutch or torque converter specifically.

Only issue might be the total length of the engine, which might be "fixed" with a pusher cooling fan set-up?

Enjoy!
CBODY67
Click to expand...
Was thinking since it has a new rad already id just run a dual electric fan setup and rid the old mechanical fan off the V10. Slimmer and makes more room. If I can remove the shroud and fan off of a 400 big block and keep it at 190 (fan is on rn tho btw) then I believe that rad will keep a V10 welp cool
 
Blish said:
This is what I'm hoping and that I can just save up and stick a rear end in it!

Or go the budget upgrade route and swap a 9 1/4 in. That will never die!

Or considering getting another car, still thinking though
Click to expand...
Your car already has the 9 1/4 axle.. call Murray Park if you can’t find one local.. he’s cheaper than rebuilding the one in the car. Ask me how I know.. lol
 
If you plan on running the V10 and want to keep the radiator in the stock location you will need to put the fans in front of he radiator.

radiator clearance.jpeg
 
75LandYacht said:
Your car already has the 9 1/4 axle.. call Murray Park if you can’t find one local.. he’s cheaper than rebuilding the one in the car. Ask me how I know.. lol
Click to expand...

Blish said:
I'm pretty sure its the 8 and a quarter...
Click to expand...
Hi Blish,
1st off, sorry to hear about your car. That sucks!
I thought you had it fixed for a while with the 72 340 carb.

I'd be very surprised if you have an 8 1/4, but I also hope you do because that could explain an axle going bad behind a 400 that can do a 20 foot burn out. 8 1/4 can't handle that. This would be the first I've heard of an 8 1/4 behind a big block. Could also be a replacement that someone slapped on the car.

If it looks like this and has same number of bolts, it's 8 1/4. I'm hoping it's the axle and not the trans. Ben
20180131_122533.jpg
 
Screenshot_20220207-001633_Chrome.jpg

I have a pic of the axle buried in my phone somewhere or a video of it

Edit: actually I dont so ill peep tomorrow at it
 
Last edited:
As I recall, both the 8.25 and 9.25 axles are Spicer products. The 8.25 being a "10 bolt" and the 9.25 being a "12 bolt", as mentioned above. Kind of hate to see "Brand X" terminology applied to Chrysler Corp parts! In some cases, the 9.25 has been mistaken for a Dana 60 at first glance.
 
Blish said:
View attachment 513845
I have a pic of the axle buried in my phone somewhere or a video of it

Edit: actually I dont so ill peep tomorrow at it
Click to expand...
I'm not denying the 8 1/4 axle was in c-body cars
I had 8 1/4 in 1970 Fury 318/904.
I had 8 1/4 in 1972 Fury 360/727
I have 8 1/4 in 1973 Dodge Monaco 360/727.
My point was: you have a 400 big block and I did not think 8 1/4 went behind big blocks from the factory.
If you have 8 1/4 on your Newport and the date code on the ring gear match YMM of your car, shrug, I'm wrong. Won't be the first time.
I replaced 8 1/4 on the the 1970 & 1972 with 8 3/4, because the 8 1/4 was echoing in the passenger compartment and felt loose, big clunk shifting into drive. And that's with 40+ years behind a small block.

Just in cast you pull the axle cover and the internals are trashed:
@C Body Bob
Do you know of a place that a South Carolina school man on a very limited budget could find a rear for a Newport formal body 1974-78 400/727?
Thanks, Ben
 
MONC440 said:
If the trans moves in Manual 1st but not drive 1st then you probably broke the one way roller clutch in the back of the case. In manual 1st the low reverse band is applied, in drive 1st only the one way roller clutch holds.
Click to expand...
Thinking about it, isn't that the typical damage that can happen to a 727 when you break a driveshaft or rear?

It would make some sense.... Neutral drop breaks rear and then overrunning clutch breaks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Should I adjust trans
Replies
13
Views
1K
i_taz
i_taz
MoPar~Man
318 rough idle (20+ years in storage)
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
CBODY67
C
M
Headlight Cover Motor Repair
Replies
7
Views
903
mgm1986
M
Omni
Heat Soak
2
Replies
24
Views
2K
patinated_imperial
patinated_imperial
J
1964 New Yorker gets 1978 Cordoba 11.75-disc brakes.
2
Replies
25
Views
2K
Just Carbs
J
Back
Top