Reason for rough idle finally found! Now I have a few questions.

Chrysler's official explanation for the insulation was it was put there to deaden valve train noise. In fact it was called a "valve tappet noise reduction silencer". Secondary reason was supposedly to lessen heat transfer to the intake.

Thanks for the info.
Where did you get that from?
In the FSM?

Let me know as I do my best to get it right so I can pass accurate info along.
 
Thanks for the info.
Where did you get that from?
In the FSM?

Let me know as I do my best to get it right so I can pass accurate info along.

I found out from a Chrysler tech in the early 70's when I asked the same question. It is listed in parts books for 64 and 65 that I know of. But not sure about all years. I don't think they came on Hemi, A12 or Max Wedge engines. You can find them for sale on line also. Here's one kit I found by googling.

http://www.performancecargraphics.com/Manifold_Insulation.htm
 
Since you are in FL I would:

A: Block off the heat crossover when you install the new gasket (get one with the block off)
B: Not put the insulated pad back in
C: Eliminate the heat riser

I never ran any of those things and I live in IL and drove my cars in the very cold winters here back in the 80's (they've been milder since) I did have a working choke though, usually a manual choke. Warmed up pretty quickly.
 
I found out from a Chrysler tech in the early 70's when I asked the same question. It is listed in parts books for 64 and 65 that I know of. But not sure about all years. I don't think they came on Hemi, A12 or Max Wedge engines. You can find them for sale on line also. Here's one kit I found by googling.

http://www.performancecargraphics.com/Manifold_Insulation.htm

Thanks a lot for the link! I just picked one up. The info is also great to actually know.
 
While the compression might be good what are the condition of the valve guides? Can't speak for Mopar but I know when I had my Ford 302 rebuilt in 1975, modifying the engine at 75,000 miles, the valve guides are not a long lasting part from back in those times. Their method of repair, knurling, wasn't all that great either but it was all they had. Now my heads have bronze guides. I would do both since you are more then half way there in your R&R and would have both heads starting off from the same starting point rather than 62,000 miles apart.
 
We pulled the other head today and just as I suspected....... it was fine. But soon it will be better! And will match the other in condition.....

Took a good look at the block and it is good and clean for a 41 year old car. Looks like the past (and present owner) changed the oil often.

Ill post some some pictures tomorrow. Heads should be done by Friday next week....
 
Here is the engine minus the heads.

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Any updates on this repair?

Heads are done and back in. But being the anal idiot I am.... Cleaning up the intake and rebuilding carb with nos phenolic body. Old body had a loose jet insert.

Here are some pictures of the valve.

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Valve burned on top and bottom. Looks like someone took a blow torch to it.

No wonder I had a rough idle! Compression on #3 was pitiful. Block, rings and cylinders are all good to go.

The weird thing was that, as soon as I would crack the throttle, the rough idle would smooth right out. Drove me crazy! I guess the lean idle mix and low compression would cause the miss at the lower revs. Once the throttles opened, the richer mix and higher pressures, longer more complete burn helped "balance" the loss.

Hopefully, with all the tweeks, repair and help I've gotten on this site, the damned thing will run like a Swiss watch....

I'll post a video when I'm done.

I'm also working on installing a stock rear A/C unit for a little cruise later this summer. I finally have all the parts together. Will look to start a new thread on this shortly.

Thanks for asking!

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As promised, video of engine running.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LFkoYrji7rU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

My dad always told me that they would do this trick on Rolls Royce cars to show the customers how smooth the engine ran. Don't know if its true but it makes a nice story.

As as you can see. The A/C was on and also the radio.

Still need to set the cold idle, choke and WOT settings..... Getting a little bogged but pulls strong if I keep my foot just off the floor.


No sputter from the tail pipe and no raw gas smell in the exhaust.... Good clean burn.

and........ Smooooooooooooooth!

thank to all for your advice and input.

Now..... On to the rear A/C project.
 
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