Removing/changing power window motor

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I have to remove/replace the power window motor on a '68 Imperial. It's located on the rear passenger 1/4 on a 2-door HT. Do I have to block the regulator mechanism before I unbolt the motor, or is the spring tension forcing the window up? I just don't want the mechanism to come crashing down on my hand while unbolting it. Is there something I need to clamp?

-Gregg B.
 
If the regulator is in the car and connected to the window then it won’t go anywhere. the weight of the glass and spring tension balance each other. With the motor out you can move the glas up or down by hand, not very easily but it will move.

be sure to Lube all the pivot points while you are in there.

If it is not connected to the window or out of the car then it will fly and destroy things in its path when motor is loosened.
 
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If you have the regulator out of the car, their should be a hole in the gear and mounting plate you can put a bolt thru to hold it in place when you remove the motor.
 
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Do not try to remove the motor from the regulator without using a clamp if you’ve removed them as an assembly leaving the glass in place.
 
OK... which one is it? Clamp or no clamp? I am leaving the regulator and the glass in place in the car. I am only removing the motor from the regulator while its still in the car and replacing it with a new motor. I assume I can do that while everything is still in place?. I did this in the past on a front door (some 25 years ago), but never had to do it on a back 1/4 window of a 2-door coupe.
 
OK... which one is it? Clamp or no clamp? I am leaving the regulator and the glass in place in the car. I am only removing the motor from the regulator while its still in the car and replacing it with a new motor. I assume I can do that while everything is still in place?. I did this in the past on a front door (some 25 years ago), but never had to do it on a back 1/4 window of a 2-door coupe.
1/4 windows are harder to do without removing the regulator but not impossible. I put the glass all the way up if you can and put a plastic “Quik Grip“ clamp on the glass at the belt line to keep the glass from coming down. If the glass is down and you can’t put it up you may have to remove the reg/motor assembly out of the car as the glass will be in your way if it’s not all the way up.
 
Thanks, all. I'm glad that the glass is currently all the way up, as I don't want to have to remove the regulator. Sounds like it's going to be a bit of a PITA to remove and replace just the motor either way. I'm trying it on Saturday and I'll report back...
 
There are 3 bolts that hold the motor to the regulator. If they are covered by metal of the body then drill some access holes to get a socket on them.

If the glass goes down amd it’s in the way then just move it back up. You can install the motor with the glass in any position. Nothing is indexed. motor will run it up or down to the stops and not go any further.

Next time if the motor quits with the glass down, then unbolt the motor and move the glass out of the way to swap motors.


Bottom line is if the regulator and glass are fully installed in the body it won’t fly and remove your fingers.
 
Rear seat cushion is out... and look what I found under there...
Rear_seat1.jpg
Rear_seat2.jpg
 
There are 3 bolts that hold the motor to the regulator. If they are covered by metal of the body then drill some access holes to get a socket on them.

If the glass goes down amd it’s in the way then just move it back up. You can install the motor with the glass in any position. Nothing is indexed. motor will run it up or down to the stops and not go any further.

Next time if the motor quits with the glass down, then unbolt the motor and move the glass out of the way to swap motors.


Bottom line is if the regulator and glass are fully installed in the body it won’t fly and remove your fingers.
Are the rollers accessible for lubrication with the regulator in the car? Thanks
 
Good find on the build sheet!

How did the window repair go?
It was a pain in the butt to remove everything to get access to the motor. That by far was the hardest part. Removing the motor was easy. I did drill two holes in the inside sheet metal to make it easy to install the new motor...easy enough. I did find out the used motor I received must have been out of a later model car because the electrical polarity was opposite. I didn't test until the I installed the new motor, however, so now my switch works backwards. Oh, well... I'm not going to remove all of that again just to reverse the wire polarity...
 
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