Replacement Aftermarket Camshaft for 383-4 and 440HP engines

I remember it being 1oz to 5 gallon of fuel. I just picked up a litre of Pennzoil Marine Premium Plus.
Going to start using it this weekend, if rain holds off.

IMG_3944.jpeg
 
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Ripinator said:
Steve: You should still use marine two-cycle oil - even in your 100LL gas. There are many benefits - regardless of the octane level of the gas in your tank.
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Thanks for the advice RIP and Matt. I reread all the comments on the use of 2 cycle oil on the Chrysler 300 Club site and concur that use of the 2 cycle oil has plenty of additional benefits. I already bought some 2 cycle oil based on that advice before I decided to use the 100LL aviation fuel.

So today I ordered a container to make accurate measurements for the correct ratio:

Two Stroke Fuel Gas Mixer Mixing Measuring Container Bottle 2 Cycle Oil Engine 719249210001 | eBay
 
Ripinator said:
Use one ounce for each five gallons of fuel. One oz. per four gallons is too much.
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I never did the premeasure thing. If the tank is less than 1/4 full at fill up it’s 2 glugs for the E body and 3 glugs for the Imps.:thumbsup:
 
I had an almost stock 400 in a 72 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus with 3.23 gear.
The intake was an Edelbrock Performer, and the cam was an unknown aftermarket.
The idle was slightly rough "but" very stable at 600 rpm. It made a "lot" of torque off idle to 4000 rpm. Nothing after 4500 rpm.
The car was a blast to drive.
No' it didn't run like the 1970 440 sixpack 3.91 gear Super Bee I had.
 
Unfortunately do not have a good suggestion for a cam. Just lost a comp cam in a 1970 440 engine, one lifter went REALLY bad and two more were about to. Won't use comp cams again.
 
When I was a teenager (in the 80's) I put a new set of Rhodes lifters into a 440 that had a "purple cam" in it (of unknown variation) to try and get a little more low-end and vacuum. I didn't know any better that you should replace the cam and lifters together as a set. My friend's father, who was a shade-tree mechanic, told me to pump them up with oil before installing them, but that was it. I put thousands of miles on to that engine afterwards with no apparent damage to the camshaft. Did I just get lucky?

Oh, and the Rhodes lifters only made a minimal difference :rolleyes:. But again, I was a total newb that only knew what he knew by reading magazines and advertisements.
 
WissaMan said:
When I was a teenager (in the 80's) I put a new set of Rhodes lifters into a 440 that had a "purple cam" in it (of unknown variation) to try and get a little more low-end and vacuum. I didn't know any better that you should replace the cam and lifters together as a set. My friend's father, who was a shade-tree mechanic, told me to pump them up with oil before installing them, but that was it. I put thousands of miles on to that engine afterwards with no apparent damage to the camshaft. Did I just get lucky?

Oh, and the Rhodes lifters only made a minimal difference :rolleyes:. But again, I was a total newb that only knew what he knew by reading magazines and advertisements.
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With a touch of luck, you can put new lifters on an old cam and get away with it. Mechanics would swap out a single noisy lifter and think nothing of it as long as the bottom looked good.

Going the other way? Nope... New cam with old lifters probably won't work, but I'll bet there are guys that have done it not knowing any better and gotten away with it.
 
Unless it's a GM engine or a custom ground cam to match Your engine I'd NEVER choose a Comp branded shelf grind for Any MOPAR. I build & tune for a living & have spent the last 18 year's on the dyno with 12 year's before that at the largest speed shop we had here...
People get confused with the comment it's not a race car!
Folks just because it's not a race car WHY would you Not want the efficiency to be in the mid 90's instead of 80%?
That equates to better milage, more power, longer oil life, hell longer engine life.
Use technology to your advantage...
I'd look at Schneider, Hughes, or Bullet for a cam. Specially for a off the shelf grind as they specialized in #'s for the MOPAR Large heavy lifter. NOT racing GM stuff & using blanket #'s across the board...
 
NitrousTuner1 said:
Unless it's a GM engine or a custom ground cam to match Your engine I'd NEVER choose a Comp branded shelf grind for Any MOPAR. I build & tune for a living & have spent the last 18 year's on the dyno with 12 year's before that at the largest speed shop we had here...
People get confused with the comment it's not a race car!
Folks just because it's not a race car WHY would you Not want the efficiency to be in the mid 90's instead of 80%?
That equates to better milage, more power, longer oil life, hell longer engine life.
Use technology to your advantage...
I'd look at Schneider, Hughes, or Bullet for a cam. Specially for a off the shelf grind as they specialized in #'s for the MOPAR Large heavy lifter. NOT racing GM stuff & using blanket #'s across the board...
Click to expand...

OK. Now what do you recommend for lifters? Seems like everything out there is junk. . .
 
NitrousTuner1 said:
Unless it's a GM engine or a custom ground cam to match Your engine I'd NEVER choose a Comp branded shelf grind for Any MOPAR. I build & tune for a living & have spent the last 18 year's on the dyno with 12 year's before that at the largest speed shop we had here...
People get confused with the comment it's not a race car!
Folks just because it's not a race car WHY would you Not want the efficiency to be in the mid 90's instead of 80%?
That equates to better milage, more power, longer oil life, hell longer engine life.
Use technology to your advantage...
I'd look at Schneider, Hughes, or Bullet for a cam. Specially for a off the shelf grind as they specialized in #'s for the MOPAR Large heavy lifter. NOT racing GM stuff & using blanket #'s across the board...
Click to expand...
Ok, which Hughes cam would you recommend for a 4800 lbs C-body with 2.76 rear, A727 tranny, and otherwise close to a standard tune 375 horsepower 440?
 
My boss had the engine out of his brother in laws 69 Camaro to reseal it and detail it. We had the heads rebuilt and put in a little bigger cam. It wiped out one lobe and lifter after about 30 min of run time. We had 15w40 diesel oil and zinc additive in it. Some guy's say you need to run break in oil and not just the additive. He put the used stock cam and lifters back in. No issues with it. I think it's a combination of poor quality parts and lack of zinc
 
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