Resurrection of my 1970 Chrysler 300 Convertible

Fuselage Years

  1. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Professional Tinkerer

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    Correct about my experience. Never exceeds 195 with the AC on, in traffic or on the road, with 33* total timing w/ full vacuum advance. But let me add what we all already know: The radiator is only one part of a system where all parts must work. In my case the REST of the system is perfect. Flushed block, new 'stat and housing, new hoses, good (correct) pump, and a Tony's fan and clutch. https://www.tonysparts.com/
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  2. Samplingman

    Samplingman Senior Member

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    I felt I had come to the point where the engine just didn’t need to be on the stand any longer. Besides, that 3-wheeled thing made me nervous as hell, but it did get the job done. Time to to put the baby in the cradle!

    So close....

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    ...yet so far...

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  3. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Professional Tinkerer

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    That's a fine bunch of pics and results you just sent. Great fun to watch you working on all this, and gotta love your "spray booth"!
     
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  4. Samplingman

    Samplingman Senior Member

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    And I promised the wife that we will be serving drinks in it again next summer when the car is done.
     
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  5. Samplingman

    Samplingman Senior Member

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    Let’s finish up this exhausting whirlwind of posts with what else, the exhaust!

    Once again, options abound if you want your 440 to sound like the monster most people think it is. Three inch pipes, dual exhaust, HP logs, headers and what not. All I wanted was a stock single 2 1/4 inch pipe with the correct muffler and tail pipe. Many years earlier I had sourced an NOS Y pipe.

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    Next I found an eBay seller with a bunch of NOS tail pipes, so I snapped this one up, complete with resonator and correct turn-down. It had been for sale for years, I literally saw some one post the link here in 2018, and of course it was still for sale. I was aghast when it showed up wrapped in plastic, but actually it came out perfect and in record time.

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    The muffler was another mystery, I ended up sourcing one based on size and shape. However, the hardest part was this mid pipe circled in red below.

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    In my search for a junk pipe that I could bring to the muffler shop as a bending guide (no, they had never heard of “bend” cards, nor how to use them), a member here came through with a solid usable piece! Thanks again @JDX. The bigger problem was shipping, so I suggested the classic plastic wrap method and it was here in a jiffy.

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    Now just blast the hangars and put this baby back together. Is that an old tire? It came from an unmolested car, but who knows, still, that rivet looks original.

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  6. Samplingman

    Samplingman Senior Member

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    Pre-assembled, this thing is loooong!

    More cleaning and more painting....

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    Wait, that doesn’t look right, how will the drive shaft fit?

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    That’s better!

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    Yep, that pipe has to move back a bit, but I am satisfied with the stock turndown and overall fit and finish with the stock clamps.

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  7. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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  8. Factorial

    Factorial Active Member

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  9. Trace 300 Hurst

    Trace 300 Hurst Professional Tinkerer

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    This thread is sooo much fun.
     
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  10. Ripinator

    Ripinator Senior Member

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    I think that left front exhaust manifold stud is a little longer than the others. It needs to be long enough to allow room for attachment of the battery ground cable and (in the case of my '66 440) a little longer still to attach the left-most ear of the A/C compressor mounting bracket.
     
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  11. Samplingman

    Samplingman Senior Member

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    Interesting. I’ll have to check that out on the parts car. There are open threads on the front top of the head, I had thought the cable grounds there. One thing I know for sure, the stud is too short there is no way it’s coming out without snapping.
     
  12. Samplingman

    Samplingman Senior Member

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    PSA Post #2 for you new kids. IF you do buy that $2500 project, make sure you pick up a running complete identical parts car. Along with the FSA and FCBO, it’s an essential resource.
     
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  13. Samplingman

    Samplingman Senior Member

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    Wow, that was cool.
     
  14. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    No longer stud on his car.
     
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  15. Marv

    Marv Wannabe C-body owner FCBO Gold Member

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    My exhaust although aftermarket is attached to the car with the same rubber material. I wondered about that being factory or cheap backyard repair as well interesting to see that it's not that uncommon
     
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  16. marty mopar

    marty mopar Well-Known Member

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    I've got lots of those hangars NOS and they all seem to use that material that looks like they were hacking up tires for the part.

    Except for the tread...that is not present.

    One thing for sure that stuff is tough. Try chewing one for breakfast. 3 days and 5 dentures later it will still be in one piece and you
    will be in a mental institution for trying.
     
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  17. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    I have a new universal hanger that still has the whitewall as part of the rubber. Not a NOS Mopar piece, but everybody needs to remember that Chrysler never made small parts like this. They had many, many vendors, small and large, that built (still do) these parts. It makes a lot of sense to use rubber sourced from tires. I'll bet they were rejected new tires that were sawed up. Perfect material with material imbedded in the rubber for strength.
     
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  18. 65sporty

    65sporty Old Man with a Hat

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    Was that a new stud that broke or one of the original 50yr old studs?
     
  19. Samplingman

    Samplingman Senior Member

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    Original stud. If there is a next time I’ll have the machine shop replace all of them.
     
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  20. live4theking

    live4theking Old Man with a Hat

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    The left front stud and the right rear studs were snapped on my 440. I pulled the heads and took the too work. Since the drugs were sticking up a little bit once of the welders cleaned them up, set a nut over the stud and yanked it on. Then it was as simple as taking a bolt out.

    I believe you are correct in that the battery ground goes on the front left stud. I don't recall if I put it back there or on an intake bolt.

    Btw you're doing some great work.
     
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