Rough idle

I actually didn't even think of checking for vacuum leaks. I'll take a look at that first thing tomorrow. And ya my dad told me when I bought my new ballast resistor to buy a few and throw them in the glove box haha previous experiences with his 69 roadrunner.
 
ieman said:
Simply in response to his question of if he "could" use the MSD Blaster 2 coil. And yes, 12 volts to the MSD coil "if" the ignition conversion is done. Eliminating a component with a known high failure rate seems like a good idea to me, just my .02, and I did use the "if it were my car" disclaimer...
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So what kind of electronic ignition allows you to put 12 volts into the coil because yes the ballast resistor does fail
 
70bigblockdodge said:
So what kind of electronic ignition allows you to put 12 volts into the coil because yes the ballast resistor does fail
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I have the Mopar conversion. I've read here where others have bypassed/removed their ballast resistors, not sure whose kit they are using. I don't have decades of experience not running a resistor, but I buy in to the concept. I think if you were to take a poll, it would be very divided. I'm sure many people consider it cheap insurance and would rather have it. My car is not a daily driver and I don't mind running the risk, if there is one. I wouldn't do it with a stock coil, however.
I know I'll get criticized for refering to a magazine article, but this guy gets paid for his opinion and I can't give mine away.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...110_ballast_resistor_guide_ballast_blast_off/
 
Thank you! I really don't agree with the article and unless you are having a miss fire problem you are gaining nothing but stressing your coil and electronic ign box.











P.S. Ballast resistor is smaller, cheaper, takes 10 seconds to change and fits in the glovebox more easily than a xtra coil.
 
Well I did some checking there doesn't seem to be any vacuum leaks but I'm starting to think I might have a stuck lifter or something because I'm getting a pretty good tick in the top end and I'm definitely getting a good amount of blow by on top of that. I'm not sure if that's to do with the fact that it really hasn't run in quite a while or what. I'm gonna do an oil change tomorrow with a high zinc oil and throw in a can of restore to hopefully seal things up.
 
Did you do a.compression check you may just have a leaky valve from sitting as you mentioned and could be playing havoc with the vacuum signal to the carb.
 
70bigblockdodge said:
Thank you! I really don't agree with the article and unless you are having a miss fire problem you are gaining nothing but stressing your coil and electronic ign box.











P.S. Ballast resistor is smaller, cheaper, takes 10 seconds to change and fits in the glovebox more easily than a xtra coil.
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The coil I am running is rated for full voltage, so I'm no more likely to carry one in my glovebox than you are. As far as the stress put on the ignition box, if it fails, I'll have the excuse to replace it with the MSD ignition I'd rather have. So it's a win-win for me. But with my current combination I do gain approx. 20,000 volts at the plug over the ballast/stock coil combination. To each his own, for me the risk is worth the gain.
 
moper said:
Welcome Crash - I live in Columbia CT - about 20 minutes from you if that. If you've only been alive since the 90s then I'm assuming you don't have a lot of carbureted car experience. The idea of bolt on and it works really doesn't apply to much on these cars anymore. Between the wear, the evolution of fuel, and the intermittent quality control you have to accept that everything you do tuning wise will require some extra thought and effort. The carb may need internal adjustments but with a good service manual you should be able to get it good enough to drive it around. On the points - if you set them by point gap you only did a rough install. The finish work is setting them with a dwell meter. Again - reference the service manual. On the coil - use the MSD. The primary side of the coil (the terminal the ignition wire goes to, and the wire to the points) only sees at most about 1V under battery voltage when starting, and normally around 9v when the car is running. The secondary side is the high voltage and that goes to the plugs if alls working properly.
If you want a hand and are patient I'm close by. I'd be happy to help but my schedule can be a bit crazy at times.
Welcome and go have fun with it. The ice is finally melting (until next week...).
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My sentiments line up with Moper, as today's carburetor rebuilds are a crap shoot, and most of them do not work. If you talk with reps at Autozone or NAPA, for example, they are always switching carb rebuilder suppliers in an effort to get reliable rebuilds. Your 318, assuming it is the original engine, is the last year of the wide block old 318. My experience with those was they did exhibit a fair amount of blowby even at less than 100K miles and had their fair share of lifter problems - so occasional ticking and noise on startup were common. What brand of carburetor is on your engine? If it is a Carter, your chances of a decent rebuilt unit are pretty good, but if it is Stromberg or some other brand, maybe not. So continue to sort out the possible other problems as you are doing, but my bet would be that the rebuilt carburetor is no good. The guys you talk to at Classic Industries really have no in depth knowledge of rebuilt carburetors. My best recent experience with a rebuilt carburetor was from United Rebuilders, available typically at Autozone. Good luck. Since Moper is nearby, I would take him up on his offer to help if you get stuck.
 
ieman I'm not looking to beat you up on this but was merely looking for the logic in your thinking, its your money and your car but this young man came here looking to get sound advice getting a stock car to run properly, there is no good reason to reason to possibly send him down a path to unreliability which could leave him with a bad taste for old Chrysler products
 
70bigblockdodge said:
Ditch the ballast resistor and do what put 12 volts to the coil, or put some bastard parts in there that you can't find except at summit or jegs no thanks! I will do the time honored true mopar guy thing and put a extra ballast resistor in my glovebox.
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Ah the days of a Super Shops on every street corner... Now that's my Nostalgia....
 
I am still using the holley 750 that I bought at the super shops on the national city/ chula vista line near San Diego.
 
Ya after I do a couple little things today I'm thinking a compression test is the next logical thing. Worst case I get to put in my big block sooner than expected :beavisnbutthead:
 
70bigblockdodge said:
ieman I'm not looking to beat you up on this but was merely looking for the logic in your thinking, its your money and your car but this young man came here looking to get sound advice getting a stock car to run properly, there is no good reason to reason to possibly send him down a path to unreliability which could leave him with a bad taste for old Chrysler products
Click to expand...
No worries, I know the thread derailed there for a bit. You have a great point, get it running right the way it was intended to run first. Couldn't agree more.
 
crash113 said:
Ya after I do a couple little things today I'm thinking a compression test is the next logical thing. Worst case I get to put in my big block sooner than expected :beavisnbutthead:
Click to expand...


Big Block! Now your talking, BTW I have to apologize to you for taking off with your thread to quibble with another member about 2 different opinions you were just looking for some experienced advice instead of trial and error by yourself getting frustrated etc. a smart move. I will extend the apology to ieman also there are more than one way to do things, my way and the wrong way but I'm trying, LOL.
 
No problem guys it helps me learn by listening to everyone's opinion. And ya definitely thinking a big block motor swap in the near future. I changed the oil and put some restore in and some marvel mystery oil in the gas and it sounded like the lifter or whatever is causing that tick is freeing up but she started smoking pretty bad and I goosed it a couple times and I couldn't believe the amount of brown and black smoke that came out. So I'm thinking it's pretty gummed up and could use a rebuild so I'm just gonna start motor shopping.
 
I think you need to get it moving - get some load on and off the engine, get some real heat into it, and thensee how it goes. I'm assuming your running it in the yard, maybe around the yard, not buzzing down the road for a bit given the fuel system shape. The 318 Poly is a good engine - but nothign's great when you first wake it up - especially after this never-ending winter...lol.
By the way - the guy at Classic Industries is saying what he's supposed to. His position is wrong, but it isn't his fault. You should also prepare to set the timing curve up on it. That needs to be done before any deep carb tuning is.
 
Ya I think you guys are right about the carb. I couldn't figure out why I'm going through so much gas just idling in my yard and then I filled up my float bowl on the carb the other day and gas started leaking out from a couple different places....awesome quality. Glad I got it on sale.
 
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