Runs like a Teriyaki rice burner

Blish

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Electronic ignition offers a lot of benefits. No dwell adjustment, no burnt points, no condenser going bad.
Since the carb was professionally rebuilt, I'd consider an electronic ignition conversion.
Rick's Mopars sells good kits. Example
MOPAR 440 413 426 HiPo Electronic Ignition Kit Plymouth Dodge Chrys NOS TAN CAP | eBay
I think I'll pass, I dont plan to restore this car or do anything crazy, and my budget is limited. I have a show truck im building and I just need something to scoot back and forth to school with, not looking to spend extra rn. Whats in it works, but maybe one day if I have the car ill consider
 

1970FuryConv

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I think I'll pass, I dont plan to restore this car or do anything crazy, and my budget is limited. I have a show truck im building and I just need something to scoot back and forth to school with, not looking to spend extra rn. Whats in it works, but maybe one day if I have the car ill consider
I've been in school as an adult. Money is tight.
Now, I have somewhat the same problem, in that I'm putting to kids thru college.
Best of luck to you!
 

Big_John

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If you are going to run points, you have understand that they require maintenance on some sort of regular basis. They aren't a "set it and forget it" component like the electronic versions.

Point being (pun intended) that the first thing you check in a point ignition are the points.
 

Blish

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If you are going to run points, you have understand that they require maintenance on some sort of regular basis. They aren't a "set it and forget it" component like the electronic versions.

Point being (pun intended) that the first thing you check in a point ignition are the points.
Thats very punny (pun intended)

How do you set points?
-Paul
 

Big_John

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Thats very punny (pun intended)

How do you set points?
-Paul
I don't... LOL. Gave up on points back in the 70's.

But, you can't go wrong with Uncles Tony. I didn't watch this, but just trusting it's good.



Didn't watch this one either, but aside from being Ford based, there's lot of good info that you can use on their channel.

 

70bigblockdodge

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Buy a set of points, set them to .017, leave the condenser brand new ones are ****. Clean out the carbon tracking on terminals in the cap and rub the tip of the rotor on the pavement a couple of times.
You need more timing in that dead low compression engine. The reason it is "skipping" and good when to the floor is it's leaner when cruising. You need a solid spark to light that weaker mixture. The fact that it runs better with more fuel available and more timing, indicates you need a tune up and see more timing
 
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1970FuryConv

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I just rebuilt the carb and set the floats and got it all adjusted. Timing is at 8 degrees. I also replaced the ballast resistor as it would only run when you hold the starter and would randomly run normally. I also replaced the coil, distributor cap and rotor, ans plug wires and plugs. I am scratching my head now! -Paul
The internals of the distributor are the only thing left. You need to go to the parts store and buy a set of feeler gauges to set the point gap. The gap is set when the cam opens the points.
1642987776206.png
 

Blish

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Buy a set of points, set them to .017, leave the condenser brand new ones are ****. Clean out the carbon tracking on terminals in the cap and rub the tip of the rotor on the pavement a couple of times.
You need more timing in that dead low compression engine. The reason it is "skipping" and good when to the floor is it's leaner when cruising. You need a solid spark to light that weaker mixture. The fact that it runs better with more fuel available and more timing, indicates you need a tune up and see more timing
Funny you say that, the problem with this car when I bought it was the condenser... I spent $9 to get it running first time and it ran for months. But okay haha I have it tuned the best I can. I'm noticing its leaking fuel out the throttle shafts so I wonder what causes that?
 

Blish

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The internals of the distributor are the only thing left. You need to go to the parts store and buy a set of feeler gauges to set the point gap. The gap is set when the cam opens the points.
View attachment 511098
Point gap was set at .017. Got home at 10 tonight and double checked. It leaks fuel out the throttle shafts dont know why it does that bad carb?
 

Blish

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Buy a set of points, set them to .017, leave the condenser brand new ones are ****. Clean out the carbon tracking on terminals in the cap and rub the tip of the rotor on the pavement a couple of times.
You need more timing in that dead low compression engine. The reason it is "skipping" and good when to the floor is it's leaner when cruising. You need a solid spark to light that weaker mixture. The fact that it runs better with more fuel available and more timing, indicates you need a tune up and see more timing
Oh yeah I live in the country no pavement for a few miles. I did buy a new rotor and cap just to be on the safe side, the rotor tip from the coil plug was bent when I got it. I have it on 12 now, it seemed to help a bit but not anything crazy.

I'm debating swapping a V10 in once I get this F100 finished up. Not sure yet haha.
 

70bigblockdodge

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Leaks fuel around throttle shaft when. Shut off, shut off and throttle pump, running. None are great. Surprising for a TQ they usually take forever to wear out a throttle shaft bore.
 

Blish

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Leaks fuel around throttle shaft when. Shut off, shut off and throttle pump, running. None are great. Surprising for a TQ they usually take forever to wear out a throttle shaft bore.
I'm going to take my next paycheck and fix my little Power Ram 50, im afraid the newport is going to sit a minute
 

1970FuryConv

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Point gap was set at .017. Got home at 10 tonight and double checked. It leaks fuel out the throttle shafts dont know why it does that bad carb?
A rebuilder can install bushings around those throttle blade shafts to stop the leaks, but that's an expensive proposition. I'm betting $300 and up to redo the carb.

Still, I don't see how a slow drip from that area could make your car run the way it does. Presuming your uncle knows what he's doing, I still think ignition is the problem. Suggestions
*Recheck spark plug wire firing order. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. I had a friend, Pete, come over to tell me the truck I sold him was missing (skipping). Pete's not stupid, but I saw new plug wires. He had swapped wires on adjacent spark plugs. Truck ran fine after we fixed that.
*Check that input voltage to the distributor is near 12.6v (battery voltage), ign key in Run position, distributor connector disconnected. Distributors do weird things when underpowered. If underpowered, somebody else rewired that car for points. No telling what they did. It's a matter of following wires and finding out.
*Check the wire that the distributor uses to ground the coil, from the distributor connector to coil negative. That wire can't have much, if any resistance. Replace that wire if it has more than 5 Ohms resistance. It really should be zero or very close to it.
Note: none of these checks costs anything and replacing wires costs very little.
 

Blish

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Uncle said he thinks its a fuel issue. Flooding. We found a carb from a 72 340 and slapped it on for sh!ts and giggles. Carb sat 10 years on a shelf and... ill be darned if I dont adjust the idle screw and the thing runs like a scalded dog! I set the points for safe measure and bumped the timing to 15 degrees. Left a 20 foot blackmark in the highway. I took the top off the carb and somehow both metering rods bent, and one of the floats was way off too not where I set it. Tries to readjust again and the tab broke. Was weak metal other was almost same way. So I think I'll leave the 340 carb on, seems to run better that way anyways.

The points adjustment helped too. Runs at 190-195 with the 15 degrees so there's no funny business there.


Also got a fresh dent in the front fender backing out the shop. I glanced and thought my corner was clear but then I bumped the shop door side. 2 dented fenders now. One my fault tho so ill accept it. Looking for 2 fenders if anybody has them, need the ones with cornering lamps.
 

Blish

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A rebuilder can install bushings around those throttle blade shafts to stop the leaks, but that's an expensive proposition. I'm betting $300 and up to redo the carb.

Still, I don't see how a slow drip from that area could make your car run the way it does. Presuming your uncle knows what he's doing, I still think ignition is the problem. Suggestions
*Recheck spark plug wire firing order. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. I had a friend, Pete, come over to tell me the truck I sold him was missing (skipping). Pete's not stupid, but I saw new plug wires. He had swapped wires on adjacent spark plugs. Truck ran fine after we fixed that.
*Check that input voltage to the distributor is near 12.6v (battery voltage), ign key in Run position, distributor connector disconnected. Distributors do weird things when underpowered. If underpowered, somebody else rewired that car for points. No telling what they did. It's a matter of following wires and finding out.
*Check the wire that the distributor uses to ground the coil, from the distributor connector to coil negative. That wire can't have much, if any resistance. Replace that wire if it has more than 5 Ohms resistance. It really should be zero or very close to it.
Note: none of these checks costs anything and replacing wires costs very little.
Checked all this. Plugs were wired for 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2. Voltage at the dizzy was battery voltage, aka 13.1. The negative coil wire had 0 resistance. I reset the points and put a carb on from a 72 340. Fixed the dead cylinders issue and she runs like a skint indian now!
 

1970FuryConv

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Checked all this. Plugs were wired for 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2. Voltage at the dizzy was battery voltage, aka 13.1. The negative coil wire had 0 resistance. I reset the points and put a carb on from a 72 340. Fixed the dead cylinders issue and she runs like a skint indian now!

Hi Blish.
Glad you fixed the problem! With the bent metering rods, it sounds like an adjustment was missed. Dana is the thermoquad expert. He could rebuild that carb awesome, but I think he has a 3 month backlog and you're looking around $300+. He is also a sponsor for FCBO.
Carburetor Restoration in Youngstown, OH | Woodruff Carburetor Specialties

I agree with staying with the 72 carb, based on limited budget and excellent performance.

Sorry about the fender. That sucks.
 

Blish

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Hi Blish.
Glad you fixed the problem! With the bent metering rods, it sounds like an adjustment was missed. Dana is the thermoquad expert. He could rebuild that carb awesome, but I think he has a 3 month backlog and you're looking around $300+. He is also a sponsor for FCBO.
Carburetor Restoration in Youngstown, OH | Woodruff Carburetor Specialties

I agree with staying with the 72 carb, based on limited budget and excellent performance.

Sorry about the fender. That sucks.

16433946967888896319447072380548.jpg
 
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