Rust Dissolving liquids?

I use two products. Rust Dissolver which is basically diluted phosphoric acid, and Evapo-Rust which is a form of citric acid and soap. Both have their applications and are about the same cost. I have used 5% white vinegar, but it dissolves zinc, and is prone to "flash rusting".

Rust Dissolver is good for heavy items like rotors and drums. It can be sprayed on or used as soak. Don't leave the item in too long. It's also not necessarily good for paint or rubber parts. The product can be reused.

Evapo-Rust is great for small parts and can be left soaking for days without impact. Once the fluid darkens it cannot be re-used.

Before and after Evapo-Rust soak:

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After application WD-40 is prayed on to preserve the finish.

There was a lengthy post on another forum using reverse electrolysis and a baking soda solution, I'll post the link when I find it, but there are few you-Tube videos on the process.
 
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I recommend Evapo-Rust. As I have been restoring my Windsor, I've soaked just about every nut and bolt in that stuff. Works good on cast iron too.

It is a similar consistency to water. Does not emit any harmful fumes and not hazardous if it gets on your skin. The parts should be degreased beforehand. The parts need to be submerged in a bath of it, so you can only use it on parts that you have a tank big enough to keep them in. (I've read online about some people doing creative things like soaking a rag in Evapo-Rust, applying it to a larger part, then wrapping it in cling-wrap to keep it from evaporating.)

You can leave parts in it pretty much indefinitely without harm to the metal itself. For heavy scaly rust, like you'd often find on cast iron, it helps to occasionally remove the part from the bath, attack the scale with a wire brush and then throw it back in.
 
Some alternatives

Technical - Rust removal using Electrolysis, and Zinc plating
Tech: Using Oxalic acid to remove rust
PHOSPHORIC ACID - a pictoral
Serious rust removal!
Can't wait for tech. de-rusting with vinegar

I've used Evaporust with great results, but I found it a little "pricey" to use for large stuff. I used vinegar and while its' slower, it works well. I would soak, then pressure wash. I did an old S-K toolbox with vinegar and was real happy with the results.

I've also used Oxalic acid for rusty chrome parts and that works very well. Just have to keep an eye on it.
 
Evapo-Rust recommendation. Works wonders on rubber parts that have rust on them too. Totally gets rid of rust that is stained on any other part too - like rubber, aluminum, etc........
 
I use two products. Rust Dissolver which is basically diluted phosphoric acid, and Evapo-Rust which is a form of citric acid and soap. Both have their applications and are about the same cost. I have used 5% white vinegar, but it dissolves zinc, and is prone to "flash rusting".

Rust Dissolver is good for heavy items like rotors and drums. It can be sprayed on or used as soak. Don't leave the item in too long. It's also not necessarily good for paint or rubber parts. The product can be reused.

Evapo-Rust is great for small parts and can be left soaking for days without impact. Once the fluid darkens it cannot be re-used.

Before and after Evapo-Rust soak:

View attachment 192515 View attachment 192516 View attachment 192517 View attachment 192518

After application WD-40 is prayed on to preserve the finish.

There was a lengthy post on another forum using reverse electrolysis and a baking soda solution, I'll post the link when I find it, but there are few you-Tube videos on the process.
Do not use WD-40 on anything. I use to use it and it turns gummy over time. Shark oil. Garbage product. Ruined several grandfather clocks!
 
Do not use WD-40 on anything. I use to use it and it turns gummy over time. Shark oil. Garbage product. Ruined several grandfather clocks!
Never had an issue, as long as it is kept away from rubber and plastic parts. In fact, the parking brake assembly I picture above from 2013 is still silky smooth and rust free, but of course your experiences will vary.
 
I have had really good luck with Eastwood Fast etch. It leaves a nice zinc Phosphate coating so it doesn’t rust. You need to neutralize it with Eastwood pre painting prep or acetone. I usally spray a coat or two of satin clear coat direct to metal. I use a large plastic tupaware container to soak in. I have also made a tube from drain pipe for longer items. And once even a large plastic storage container. A gallon has lasted me about 2 years or so as you can re use it.

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At least in Finland you can buy citric acid in dry pulverized form from agricultural shops. The citric acid is used as a medicine for diarhea for pigs so I would assume that it would be available also in US.

Mix it with water and you have dirt cheap rust remover which is completely safe and even drinkable if need arises for some reason. I usually just taste it to find out when the mixture is ok when making new batch.
 
At least in Finland you can buy citric acid in dry pulverized form from agricultural shops. The citric acid is used as a medicine for diarhea for pigs so I would assume that it would be available also in US.

Mix it with water and you have dirt cheap rust remover which is completely safe and even drinkable if need arises for some reason. I usually just taste it to find out when the mixture is ok when making new batch.

We feed our version to astronauts.

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But seriously, I've often envisioned a cheapo (or used) swimming pool liner filled with vinegar or one of the more inexpensive liquids underneath a complete car. It would be pulled up around the edges by wires. Car would sit on bare rims to get it as close to the ground as possible; drivetrain, carpet, etc. removed. You'd probably need about 12" in depth to de-rust a subframe, floors and so forth. Maybe throw in some non-porus junk to take up volume. You'd still need a few hundred gallons I'd think.

Problem would be neutralizing it I suppose. Who's gonna try it? Javier? Sounds like a good project for an architect.
 
You are trying to think of something you can do with one hand, and still work on your car. :)
 
Never had an issue, as long as it is kept away from rubber and plastic parts. In fact, the parking brake assembly I picture above from 2013 is still silky smooth and rust free, but of course your experiences will vary.


Agreed. It's still the best way to clean cosmoline off of anything..
 
You are trying to think of something you can do with one hand, and still work on your car. :)

Eh, for something I wanted to preserve, not necessarily disassemble and "restore". Then I'd flush said derusting tank and fill it back up with oil.
 
We feed our version to astronauts.

View attachment 192632

But seriously, I've often envisioned a cheapo (or used) swimming pool liner filled with vinegar or one of the more inexpensive liquids underneath a complete car. It would be pulled up around the edges by wires. Car would sit on bare rims to get it as close to the ground as possible; drivetrain, carpet, etc. removed. You'd probably need about 12" in depth to de-rust a subframe, floors and so forth. Maybe throw in some non-porus junk to take up volume. You'd still need a few hundred gallons I'd think.

Problem would be neutralizing it I suppose. Who's gonna try it? Javier? Sounds like a good project for an architect.


Actually a baby pool under a car filled with your choice of derusting liquid and a pond pump would do nicely. Just set the pool where it will catch the most liquid, create a spray nozzle off the submerged pump and aim at the area of concern. Run it for a few days and should do what you're looking for.

I thought of doing that for a degreaser/de-undercoating system.

One of these;
Shop Summer Waves Wading Pool 45-in L x 45-in W Blue Plastic Round Kiddie Pool at Lowes.com


couple gallons of your product diluted to spec.

And one of these;
158 GPH Submersible Fountain Pump

Some tubing and you're set.
 
We feed our version to astronauts.

View attachment 192632

But seriously, I've often envisioned a cheapo (or used) swimming pool liner filled with vinegar or one of the more inexpensive liquids underneath a complete car. It would be pulled up around the edges by wires. Car would sit on bare rims to get it as close to the ground as possible; drivetrain, carpet, etc. removed. You'd probably need about 12" in depth to de-rust a subframe, floors and so forth. Maybe throw in some non-porus junk to take up volume. You'd still need a few hundred gallons I'd think.

Problem would be neutralizing it I suppose. Who's gonna try it? Javier? Sounds like a good project for an architect.
It has been done.
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Actually a baby pool under a car filled with your choice of derusting liquid and a pond pump would do nicely. Just set the pool where it will catch the most liquid, create a spray nozzle off the submerged pump and aim at the area of concern. Run it for a few days and should do what you're looking for.
That was exactly the method the guys trying to save Miss Belvedere used.
Pool. Pump. Spray.
The only difference was the car dissolved.
 
I've thought of the baby pool and spray idea as well, but that's not going to get into nooks and crannies.

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