rust

In actually seeing the rusted area, it is significantly worse than you were initially describing or at least what I was interpreting. That area needs to be cut out and replaced if you hope for it to last a long time. I envisioned something more local from your initial description/photos. In other words, you will not likely ever be able to get to solid clean metal over the whole area since it isn't localized much at all.

I have had a couple cars that had localized rust just around the trim clip threaded studs and not anything pervasive like this. With the localized rust my suggestion was doable but not with this IMO. Its at a metal seam so this requires a different approach.
 
In actually seeing the rusted area, it is significantly worse than you were initially describing or at least what I was interpreting. That area needs to be cut out and replaced if you hope for it to last a long time. I envisioned something more local from your initial description/photos. In other words, you will not likely ever be able to get to solid clean metal over the whole area since it isn't localized much at all.

I have had a couple cars that had localized rust just around the trim clip threaded studs and not anything pervasive like this. With the localized rust my suggestion was doable but not with this IMO. Its at a metal seam so this requires a different approach.
Well daggum, I really don't have the experience to do this or the money to pay someone to do this, I guess I'm forced to make a botched repair and ride with it for some time. As long as it keeps my carpet from being soaked for atleast a little while.
 
Sandblast them to clean metal. Then get a leading kit from Eastwood. If you are patient you can fill them in and it will last for a very long time. Also has structural strength, bondo doesn't. Lead doesn't rust or absorb moisture. It's what Chrysler used to seal the seams in this area on a lot of their vehicles. Just do it outdoors and wear a painting mask. Lead has detrimental health effects if you breathe the fumes in. I can go into how to do it if you wish.
 
Sandblast them to clean metal. Then get a leading kit from Eastwood. If you are patient you can fill them in and it will last for a very long time. Also has structural strength, bondo doesn't. Lead doesn't rust or absorb moisture. It's what Chrysler used to seal the seams in this area on a lot of their vehicles. Just do it outdoors and wear a painting mask. Lead has detrimental health effects if you breathe the fumes in. I can go into how to do it if you wish.

Would a wire wheel work too? I don't have or know anyone with a sand blaster.

If you wouldn't mind I would appreciate if you detailed this process, I've collected about 5 ways to do this repair now and I'm just tryna do the best fix with my budget and skill set.
 
Would a wire wheel work too? I don't have or know anyone with a sand blaster.

If you wouldn't mind I would appreciate if you detailed this process, I've collected about 5 ways to do this repair now and I'm just tryna do the best fix with my budget and skill set.

Sand blasting gets into those tiny little depressions which always surround rust holes. If left then those seeds will one day come back. You could wire wheel which takes care of the level surface but would need something like Picklex 20 to deal with the rust in the tiny pits.
 
Sand blasting gets into those tiny little depressions which always surround rust holes. If left then those seeds will one day come back. You could wire wheel which takes care of the level surface but would need something like Picklex 20 to deal with the rust in the tiny pits.
I got a $1000 quote from a local body shop to repair that, that was a metal cut and re weld, ground down and primed. It would cost me $300 for them to sand blast that area.

With those prices I've decided to take my existing side grinder and wire wheel and some rust inhibitor, and some tar, and fill the hole with something water repellent like a water repellant tar, and then later ill come back to it. Vynil going over it
 
Honestly, a sandblasted can be had for under 50 bucks. You don't need a fancy one- small unit with a pistol handle and trigger will work just fine.
Whatever you do for the repair, coat the backside with roofing tar.. I treated and coated rust under my truck 20 years ago and it's holding. And that is a lot harsher of an environment.
 
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Here's my fix. Metal plate under, tac weld inside the hole, side grinder to smooth it down, die grinder in the window seam. Gonna be sealed with a vynil top so it won't be that bad or ugly.
 
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Bellona 1111, aka industrial epoxy/bondo. This is to seal things up. This was free so thats what I wound up using. Let's see how long it lasts.
 
take a little of the thickness out of the window channel so the glass will lay flat and you should be all set.
 
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