separating steering column from box

[70Tom]

OK, so I have a stupid question. I'm a little confused as to where the pin is that I'm supposed to remove to separate the steering column from the steering box. Also, what is the best method to remove it? 70 SF is the car in question.

Any pics and advice would be helpful. Thanks.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Roll or split pin about a third of the way up the coupling.

 

[Wollfen]

Here is a pic, you will see the roll pin hole is nearest to the end. Tap that out, then the whole thing will slide back rather easily. Just remember to keep it square to the input shaft of the steering box as you slide it off.

 

[70Tom]

Here is a pic, you will see the roll pin hole is nearest to the end. Tap that out, then the whole thing will slide back rather easily. Just remember to keep it square to the input shaft of the steering box as you slide it off.

View attachment 138838

Thanks for the picture. That's where I thought it was. What do you usually use to drive it out? Screwdriver?

 

[Wollfen]

I use a pin punch that has a flat tip slightly smaller than the hole. But in a pinch you should be able to use a cross head screwdriver.

 

[C Body Bob]

It helps to have a BFH & wack it good. Wack it real good. The punch that is. A little lube ain't a bad idea either.

 

[Davea Lux]

OK, so I have a stupid question. I'm a little confused as to where the pin is that I'm supposed to remove to separate the steering column from the steering box. Also, what is the best method to remove it? 70 SF is the car in question.

Any pics and advice would be helpful. Thanks.

When removing the master pin, it is a good idea to scribe its location on the input shaft. That will keep you steering wheel from going off center when you re-install the coupling. Also a good time to lube the internals of the coupling.

Dave

 

[C Body Bob]

Drill a 1/8 hole. Install a self tapping zerk fitting. Make sure you have clearance.

 

[70Tom]

This thing won't budge. Should I just drill it out?

 

[Davea Lux]

This thing won't budge. Should I just drill it out?

Do not recommend that, you might mess up the coupling or the shaft. Try loading it up with penetrating oil and let it sit overnight. Did you try rotating the shaft to drive it out from the other side?

Dave

 

[70Tom]

I've tried both sides. I put a ton of wd40 on it and will let sit overnight.

What size punch is the correct one to use? Anything too small is going to put pressure on the inside and make it hard to get out. It's so thin, it looks like you really need something precise to strike it correctly to get it out.

 

[Polara_500]

They actually make punches for roll pins like that, I think I paid about 20 or so for a set from Sears, the punch has a slightly extended center and otherwise is just a "pin punch". Or just get a small set of the pin punches and pick the largest one that will fit into the hole in the housing and smack the crap out of it (straight on of course, and wearing gloves and eye protection) with a LARGE ball pein hammer.

 

[70Tom]

They actually make punches for roll pins like that, I think I paid about 20 or so for a set from Sears, the punch has a slightly extended center and otherwise is just a "pin punch". Or just get a small set of the pin punches and pick the largest one that will fit into the hole in the housing and smack the crap out of it (straight on of course, and wearing gloves and eye protection) with a LARGE ball pein hammer.

Thanks. I'll have to go look for a set tomorrow. This thing is holding me up. Suspension is otherwise ready to go back in.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

It is a 5/16 roll pin so your punch should be same. Once it gets moving I switch to smaller punch and favor a side so the punch does not get stuck.

 

[70Tom]

Thanks for the help on this guys. A 5/16 roll pin punch from Sears worked perfectly and quickly. It's amazing what can be done with the correct/proper tools. haha.

 

[Polara_500]

Glad to hear the plan came together.

 

[challenger]

In the future use an impact hammer with a punch bit. The pinch bit may need to be ground down to make the flat larger. If not it will likely go inside the roll pin and expand it. That will get it started and easily finish with a proper sized punch.
Don't ever try to drill one out with a drill bit. Maybe worst case could be a carbide burr but I don't imagine saving much from a unit that's this seized.
Also wd40 isn't penetrating oil. Not even close.
Good luck.