Shamu, my 69 Fury III vert

3175375

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Since I continue to discover surprises in what started out as recharging the air conditioning, which added replacing 2 of the 3 vacuum actuators and the mode control switch.

Now I attempted to get the backup lights to work.
Checked and verified a good ground at the lamp housing.
Bypassed the switch at the transmission and got illuminated bulbs.
Replaced the NSS/backup light switch and no change.
Ordered a 69 Rooster comb, I suspect it to be a 68 or earlier part.
Replaced the fuel tank sending unit with an NOS part. Fuel gauge is dead on E.
Measured resistance with about 2-3 gallons and it read about 20 ohms.
Drove her to the gas station and put Ethanol-free fuel.
After putting fuel in, resistance was ~25 ohms (I believe), which is good, as the resistance changed when fuel was added.
I am going to locate the instrument +5v regulator and see if that helps.

I also am going to have to investigate why the turn signal cancellation is not occurring.

I will post updates in response to this post as I correct things.
 

Xenon

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Gas gauge --- Sending unit MUST be grounded to the car...
There should be a "strap" from sending unit to gas line......

Turn signal cancellation is not occurring--- Cam inside steering column is broken...
Remove steering wheel to replace the turn signal switch....


.
 

3175375

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Gas gauge --- Sending unit MUST be grounded to the car...
There should be a "strap" from sending unit to gas line......

Turn signal cancellation is not occurring--- Cam inside steering column is broken...
Remove steering wheel to replace the turn signal switch....


.
I verified that there’s zero (maybe 0.1) ohms between the sending unit stud and chassis ground. I will add a jumper as you suggest and see if it makes a difference.

I just replaced the turn signal switch a few months ago.
I will pull the steering wheel and inspect.

Thank you for the suggestions!
 

thethee

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I've gone through my backup lights recently, what exactly is wrong? No lights at all or also on in forward gears?

No lights at all -> check for voltage at the wire leading to the NSS switch. If no voltage is reaching the switch probably faulty wire/connection upstream.
Lights on in forward gears -> wrong style rooster comb
 

3175375

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I've gone through my backup lights recently, what exactly is wrong? No lights at all or also on in forward gears?

No lights at all -> check for voltage at the wire leading to the NSS switch. If no voltage is reaching the switch probably faulty wire/connection upstream.
Lights on in forward gears -> wrong style rooster comb
I jumped the two outside sockets on the connector that plugs into the NSS switch and the backup lights come on.
The car starts and runs as I drove her to get gas yesterday. - Rooster comb.

P.S. air conditioning and heater working well!

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thethee

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In that case probably the rivet that holds the plastic part onto the rooster comb broke or the plastic itself disintegrated. Should be obvious when you drop the pan
 

3175375

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Well, well, well…

Look what I discovered when I pulled the instrument cluster!

Looks like I’ll be doing the ammeter bypass and straightening out the ground wire that got hot. The other wires in the bundle are ok.

The wire terminates on the back of the instrument cluster.

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1970FuryConv

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Since I continue to discover surprises in what started out as recharging the air conditioning, which added replacing 2 of the 3 vacuum actuators and the mode control switch.

Now I attempted to get the backup lights to work.
Checked and verified a good ground at the lamp housing.
Bypassed the switch at the transmission and got illuminated bulbs.
Replaced the NSS/backup light switch and no change.
Ordered a 69 Rooster comb, I suspect it to be a 68 or earlier part.
Replaced the fuel tank sending unit with an NOS part. Fuel gauge is dead on E.
Measured resistance with about 2-3 gallons and it read about 20 ohms.
Drove her to the gas station and put Ethanol-free fuel.
After putting fuel in, resistance was ~25 ohms (I believe), which is good, as the resistance changed when fuel was added.
I am going to locate the instrument +5v regulator and see if that helps.

I also am going to have to investigate why the turn signal cancellation is not occurring.

I will post updates in response to this post as I correct things.
I'm guessing that you're measuring resistance between the ground input stud at the sending unit and the actual sending unit housing. If resistance is 20 ohms when the gas tank is basically empty, resistance should have dropped to a lesser measurement, less ohms, when you filled up the tank. As long as the housing for the sending unit is grounded, that decreased resistance to ground should have allowed the power input to the fuel gauge at the instrument cluster to push the needle towards full. Because resistance went up when the tank was filled, I'm not sure that I'm understanding how you measured resistance. Thanks, Ben
 

3175375

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I'm guessing that you're measuring resistance between the ground input stud at the sending unit and the actual sending unit housing. If resistance is 20 ohms when the gas tank is basically empty, resistance should have dropped to a lesser measurement, less ohms, when you filled up the tank. As long as the housing for the sending unit is grounded, that decreased resistance to ground should have allowed the power input to the fuel gauge at the instrument cluster to push the needle towards full. Because resistance went up when the tank was filled, I'm not sure that I'm understanding how you measured resistance. Thanks, Ben
I currently have about 12 ohms, measuring at the connector to the gauge.
 

1970FuryConv

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In my experience, the wire from the connector to the gauge is a ground wire and its resistance should not change relative to the amount of gasoline in the tank. The change of resistance comes between the post that the connector attaches to and the body of the sending unit. Do we know the resistance with the tank full, between the output pipe at the sending unit (or another part of the sending unit housing) and the gauge? That resistance would be measured with the sending unit wire connected at the sending unit. Thanks, Ben
 

3175375

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There’s a short between two of the wires (red to the indicator) and the violet wire at the high beam foot switch, unplugged from the foot switch.
More investigation is next…
 

3175375

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Received the rooster comb from A&A transmission today.
I ordered an aluminum transmission pan along with a filter and gasket. It should be here on Sunday.

TCI 127900 Torqueflite 904 Cast Aluminum Deep Pan Amazon product

A dash dimmer switch is also on the way. I will still order a rebuilt switch from @Devinism.
 
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3175375

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I got Shamu put together.

I have an issue with the high beam indicator circuit. When the high beams are on, the dash turn signal indicators are dimly lit. I will chase that when I replace the dimmer switch next week.

Tomorrow, I will wash her after holding a birthday party for my mom with family and friends.

Sunday I’ll take mom and my understanding fiancé for a top down cruise and then we’ll watch the Dodger game. My mom, fiancé and yours truly will be thrilled.

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3175375

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Today I installed the Mr. Gasket MRG-6860G valve cover on the passenger side with a Moroso 93050 gasket.
I bought the Mr. Gasket 6377 grommet and a Standard V178 PCV.
I torqued the valve cover bolts (with a little anti-sieze) to 75 inch-lbs.
I also applied a thin film of silicon grease to both sides of the valve cover gasket.

No leaks! 8^)

I’ll try to get the driver’s side done. However, my fiancé and I are headed to see Hank Williams Jr. tomorrow evening and I must wash Shamu as we’re taking her to the show.

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3175375

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I got the driver’s side in this morning.
I needed to bend the throttle bracket and the low (suction) side air conditioning hose a little bit to get valve cover clearance and I need to pick up some hose for the crankcase vent line. I am rather satisfied with this setup. 8^)

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