Shocks for the NOS fanatics
- Thread starter commando1
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I agree, the price is very fair, I don't want factory ride quality though.
Nick
Nick
I have a pair of NOS shocks on the back of the ragtop and a NOS pair for the front awaiting installation
Stormer
Old Man with a Hat
Don't the seals wear out & get brittle?
Air always deteriorates rubber.
[h=3]Deterioration of Rubber and Plastic Objects[/h]Natural and synthetic rubber, and plastic deteriorate continuously. It is, therefore, important for custodians of collections to be aware that by properly controlling the agents of deterioration, the lifetime of these materials can be extended.
Like all organic materials, rubber and plastic deteriorate in different ways at rates that vary widely and that are unpredictable. Deterioration may be chemical, caused by oxidation or hydrolysis, or may be physical, or biological. These processes may cause changes in the chemical composition, physical properties, and appearance of these materials. Vapours harmful to other objects may be released, and exudations or accretions may appear on the surfaces of plastic and rubber objects.
For example, the strength and flexibility of rubber may change. It may become brittle, hard, or cracked, or it may soften and become spongy, or sticky. Plastics may lose strength, and, at the same time, become brittle, crack and shrink with age. Rubber and plastic surfaces may be altered by cracking, developing chalky or dusty surfaces, or becoming sticky. Colour changes may be caused by reactions that change the molecules of the polymers that constitute plastics and rubbers, or by changes in dyes or pigments that accompany general deterioration. Plasticiser, an additive that gives flexibility, may be lost if it is volatile (that is, evaporates readily), or may be rejected as the polymer molecules link to each other (crosslink), or as its solubility parameters (a measure of its capacity to dissolve materials) alter during aging. Poly(vinyl chloride) and the cellulose esters (cellulose nitrate and cellulose acetates) are particularly prone to this behaviour. Stabilizing additives may evaporate, creating less stable plastics and rubbers.
Determining the precise composition and designing the proper care for rubber and plastics in museum collections is difficult because rates of decay are variable, and because there are practical difficulties in performing chemical analyses and in identifying the composition of plastics or rubber.
[h=3]Deterioration of Rubber and Plastic Objects[/h]Natural and synthetic rubber, and plastic deteriorate continuously. It is, therefore, important for custodians of collections to be aware that by properly controlling the agents of deterioration, the lifetime of these materials can be extended.
Like all organic materials, rubber and plastic deteriorate in different ways at rates that vary widely and that are unpredictable. Deterioration may be chemical, caused by oxidation or hydrolysis, or may be physical, or biological. These processes may cause changes in the chemical composition, physical properties, and appearance of these materials. Vapours harmful to other objects may be released, and exudations or accretions may appear on the surfaces of plastic and rubber objects.
For example, the strength and flexibility of rubber may change. It may become brittle, hard, or cracked, or it may soften and become spongy, or sticky. Plastics may lose strength, and, at the same time, become brittle, crack and shrink with age. Rubber and plastic surfaces may be altered by cracking, developing chalky or dusty surfaces, or becoming sticky. Colour changes may be caused by reactions that change the molecules of the polymers that constitute plastics and rubbers, or by changes in dyes or pigments that accompany general deterioration. Plasticiser, an additive that gives flexibility, may be lost if it is volatile (that is, evaporates readily), or may be rejected as the polymer molecules link to each other (crosslink), or as its solubility parameters (a measure of its capacity to dissolve materials) alter during aging. Poly(vinyl chloride) and the cellulose esters (cellulose nitrate and cellulose acetates) are particularly prone to this behaviour. Stabilizing additives may evaporate, creating less stable plastics and rubbers.
Determining the precise composition and designing the proper care for rubber and plastics in museum collections is difficult because rates of decay are variable, and because there are practical difficulties in performing chemical analyses and in identifying the composition of plastics or rubber.
Stormer
Old Man with a Hat
She said...
As a matter of fact..........................:laughing4:
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
The box says Heavy Duty on them. I had a Polara with the factory HD shocks. It was a long time ago but I remember there definitely was an improvement.
< Sent from my tablet >
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I've been looking at the KYB Gas-a-just shocks for all 4 corners, on my list of this winter.
Nick
I have KYB Gas-A-Just on the front and they made a huge difference. I might be putting them on the rear depending on what needs to be replaced on my air ride suspension.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
AWE, just totally bag it. At least somebody will get around to doing it completely around here. LMFAO.
I have a few problems with the Air Ride Suspension system. The bracket that mounts from the valve to the axle is broken at the axle. Good news the suspension compressor still runs. The bad news is that when I had it up on the lift with the engine running I manually moved the valve and the ride height/shocks didn't move or pump up. And when I moved the valve the other direction the ride height or shocks didn't lower. I can't see any punctures or rips in the shock rubber. But it doesn't expand at all when the compressor is running. It could be that the compressor isn't building any pressure or the shock seals are blown or both.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Bob, years and years of riding on Air-Rides has taught me it has to be done on the ground.
BUT...
In the meantime, disconnect the line at the bag. When the engine is running you should see if compressed air is coming out of it at that point from the compressor. The valve at the bag is an open/close valve, not an on/off valve.
BUT...
In the meantime, disconnect the line at the bag. When the engine is running you should see if compressed air is coming out of it at that point from the compressor. The valve at the bag is an open/close valve, not an on/off valve.
I'm on a drive on lift.
It's a 3 way valve with a neutral auto return in the middle. The valve compresses when it's in the down position and decompress when in the up position dependent on the payload in the car. It is adjustable. There's a reserve tank under the L/Rear door. I can check to see if there's pressure in the reserve tank. I can pressure the reserve tank to 150 lbs of pressure to see if the shocks work.
If everything is good except the shocks...... I'm going to try to plumb in a set of Monroe Air shocks with the current Air Ride system. If it won't work...I've already talked to the tech's at KYB and the Gas-A-Just rears will work fine.
It's a 3 way valve with a neutral auto return in the middle. The valve compresses when it's in the down position and decompress when in the up position dependent on the payload in the car. It is adjustable. There's a reserve tank under the L/Rear door. I can check to see if there's pressure in the reserve tank. I can pressure the reserve tank to 150 lbs of pressure to see if the shocks work.
If everything is good except the shocks...... I'm going to try to plumb in a set of Monroe Air shocks with the current Air Ride system. If it won't work...I've already talked to the tech's at KYB and the Gas-A-Just rears will work fine.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
You done your homework. Attaboy!!!
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