Starting the 440 for the First Time!

Samplingman

Old Man with a Hat
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Ok, moment off truth will be happening next or so, provided my body stops breaking down, lol.

First, what is the bare-minimum wiring that has to be in place to run the engine for cam break-in? Do I need the column hooked up if I use a remote starter? Could I just bypass the bulkhead connector?

Trans is rebuilt, is is necessary to have the kick-down linkage set up first? I know I have to add fluid after the engine starts so the pump doesn't burn out.

Carb is rebuilt, how do you get that adjusted while trying to fire the engine while adding more fluid to the trans, while making sure coolant is flowing and also not trying to die?

Am I over-thinking this whole operation?

Any step-by step advice would be greatly appreciated!

James
 
It would be best to have a temp gauge and at least an oil pressure light hooked up, though it doesn't have to be the ones on the dash. A couple cheap mechanical gauges hooked right to the engine would be fine. I bet there will be plenty to choose from at Carlisle. Would also be best to have the ballast resistor in the circuit, since you are running at 2 grand to break in the cam.

Carb adjustment shouldn't be a concern, since all you can change from the outside is idle mixture, and you're not going to be idling. Run the screws in and back them out 2 turns to be in the ballpark for starting.

Trans should be in neutral, not park. To be extra safe, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have the rear wheels off the ground, though you would want the parking brake on, as the wheels may spin some in neutral. Kickdown doesn't need to be hooked up, since there will be no load on trans. Dump in 6 quarts before you start. That should be plenty to keep everything lubed for a while, then add more when engine is running good on it's own.

You do want to check ignition timing fairly soon after starting. The service manual can probably give you an idea of what the advance should be at 2000 rpm. Just need to be in the ballpark, not spot on for break in.

Be prepared for the engine overheating. It's quite common on break in. A big fan pointed at the radiator can be a big help. You can also pull the belt for the fan and use a water hose to keep the radiator soaked down. The water cools much better than air. You can also just spay water on the radiator with the fan operating, but it does make a big mess of water everywhere.

Jeff
 
Couple turns out from lightly seated on idle mixture screws, about 2 1/2-3 turned in on curb idle will get you up and rolling. Set timing so you know it's BTDC. Fill the float bowls.
 
Make sure to use break in engine oils. You may need to add zinc depending on your build. We ran mine for 20 minutes and then pulled the plugs to make sure all cylinders were firing. 93 Octane gas with a additive should be used too.
 
Make sure to use break in engine oils. You may need to add zinc depending on your build. We ran mine for 20 minutes and then pulled the plugs to make sure all cylinders were firing. 93 Octane gas with a additive should be used too.

Got the oil additive. I will be running off a gas can, I was going with 2.5 gallon, but now I'm thinking that 20 minutes at fast idle might need more?
 
I'm a little rusty here but if you have the trans in park the pump won't run and so you can forget about it during break in, right?
 
Wow very exciting !! All the best luck to you and looking forward to great results!
 
I'm a little rusty here but if you have the trans in park the pump won't run and so you can forget about it during break in, right?
I wouldn't want to have it on a fast idle without fluid pumping. I have seen the torque converter grab the pump bushing due to prolonged idling in park, this was a couple of hours. With the increased RPM I wouldn't chance it.
 
I'm a little rusty here but if you have the trans in park the pump won't run and so you can forget about it during break in, right?
Pump turns with the outer TC shell. It pumps regardless, air ,fluid, water, whatever is in the pan. Neutral allows the input shaft to spin filling the converter quicker.
 
Pump turns with the outer TC shell. It pumps regardless, air ,fluid, water, whatever is in the pan. Neutral allows the input shaft to spin filling the converter quicker.
Thanks, I wasn't sure about that, but it makes sense, I always checked the fluid level while it was in neutral.
 
I will be running off a gas can, I was going with 2.5 gallon, but now I'm thinking that 20 minutes at fast idle might need more?
It will be close. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Wait. Wait. Wait.....
Running at fast idle (what RPM are you saying is "fast idle"? ) is going to need more than 2.5 gal???
What are you using, dual 1,000 cfm 4 bbls?
 
Wait. Wait. Wait.....
Running at fast idle (what RPM are you saying is "fast idle"? ) is going to need more than 2.5 gal???
What are you using, dual 1,000 cfm 4 bbls?
2000 rpm, 4bbl AVS, about 650 I think. I just didn't want to run out of fuel mid break-in. I've run the parts car on occasion on the gas can and it drank a lot just idling.
 
So....8 months later and we finally got to light it up! The day started off with flames and raw fuel shooting out of the carb, then my vintage Sears tach wouldn’t work (later figured out it was user error), then I couldn’t find the timing mark because I forgot to cap off the vacuume advance, but finally got it dialed in. It ran spectacularly at a high rpm (probably more then 2000, since I was going by ear) until smoke began to billow out from the firewall when the voltage regulator melted down! All in all, I got about 11 minutes of break in before shutting it down. After all that, we still had to push it back into the garage. Wondering if I have to start the cam break in process all over again, or is 11 minutes good enough?

 
No idea, nothing else just the VR? I have a few if needed the older nors. I do know who to ask on it though @matax on FABO. Want his e mail let me know. I am thinking the VR shorted out why though unknown to me.
 
No idea, nothing else just the VR? I have a few if needed the older nors. I do know who to ask on it though @matax on FABO. Want his e mail let me know. I am thinking the VR shorted out why though unknown to me.
Yeah, just VR started to melt, under dash looked great. I’m going to throw a new one in, get a new tach and try again.
 
Clean some paint off the firewall where that V regulator gets mounted. Maybe even put a star washer between the case and firewall. It needs to be grounded to the system. I learned many years ago, Most electrical gremlins are caused by bad grounds. I always use my digital Ohm meter and test between the Neg post on the battery and the case of Regulator and ECU. They all need a good ground. I shoot for less than .5 ohms
 
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