So I drove my car (65 New Yorker) to get breakfast this morning and everything was fine. I got back and washed it, then when I went to put it back in the garage she would start like normal, then immediately cut off when I let off of the key/put it in the run position. I tried it a few times and figured out that she will run if I hold the key just off of starter engagement. Obviously not good, but I was able to back it in the garage and she ran fine while doing so. I've never had a similar situation so where should I start looking?
Starts but won't run issue, help me trouble shoot
- Thread starter BigblueC
- Start date
Ballast resistor............. Always wanted to say that, and it sounds to be your issue.
sure nuff
Gotta say, that's some clean and nice looking wiring under that hood.
Thanks. She's a known low mileage car (about 32K). I'm also pretty particular about how I take care of my cars/toys.
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
If it is not the ballast resistor then you may need a new ignition switch.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
A spare ballast resistor in the glove box is a necessity in my opinion.
Put a voltmeter on the distributor side of the ballast resistor with the key in the run position. if you have about 7.5 for voltage, the resistor is probably ok. If you get nothing, check the input side of the resistor with the key in the run position. You should have at least 12.6V coming in. If the circuit is dead or shows very low voltage, you problem is probably an ignition switch or a corroded connection in firewall plug. If the circuits all test normally, check the points for excessive resistance.
Dave
Dave
Kinda sorta makes sense then, keep it up......
BillGrissom
Active Member
Keep a spare ballast resistor in the car, and also jumper cables to hot-wire the ignition if the switch fails. That will get you home. I had to use those when I drove my 1964 Valiant home after purchase. I found the key-switch had gomer'ed wiring that had fallen off. At first I jumpered 12 V from BAT+ straight to coil+. Ran fine for 5 min, then started missing bad above 40 mph. The coil was so hot the paint was melting. Jumpered thru the ballast and then it ran fine the 70 miles home. Eventually, you might install a modern retrofit e-ignition which gets rid of the ballast and points.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Replaced my ignition switch some months back. The old one just wore out and one day when starting it the little lock pin holding the actual switch to the locking tumbler broke off in the switch, buggering the whole works. They're not expensive. Had new keys cut from some mid 60s blanks I scored off ePay, as I like to see an honest Pentastar on my keys and not just a pentagon. I keep one ballast resistor in the glove box and one in the trunk, Just In Case....
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