Steady 11.66 volts at battery... Need some help.

James Romano

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No... To do the test, the lead has to go to the field connection on the alternator. Output stud wire stays hooked up, field connection unhooked.

What this does is eliminate the VR out of the loop and "tells" the alternator to fully charge.

Again, check charged battery voltage before you do anything.


That did the trick. I was able to kick on the charge circuit of the Alternator. Added a little RPM, and I got it up to 13.8..and would keep going, but didn't want to over stress anything. So at least I know what the issue is. I'm ordering a new set of VR's and will also keep my bad one as a get home spare.. if ALL else fails as it sound like these things aren't very reliable.
 

Davea Lux

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That did the trick. I was able to kick on the charge circuit of the Alternator. Added a little RPM, and I got it up to 13.8..and would keep going, but didn't want to over stress anything. So at least I know what the issue is. I'm ordering a new set of VR's and will also keep my bad one as a get home spare.. if ALL else fails as it sound like these things aren't very reliable.

The were pretty reliable in their day, but today most of them are 50+ years old. Most of the old mechanical regulators are being discarded as part of a conversion to electronic ignition.

Dave
 

The Goose

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I'd stop trusting that source.
It was Richard Ehrenberg who wrote it. The guys a frickin genius maybe I’m remembering it wrong but I’ll try to dig it up. Just seemed crazy to me when I read it so I never forgot it. Who knows?
 

Big_John

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It was Richard Ehrenberg who wrote it. The guys a frickin genius maybe I’m remembering it wrong but I’ll try to dig it up. Just seemed crazy to me when I read it so I never forgot it. Who knows?
I think you are remembering wrong.
 

The Goose

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I think you are remembering wrong.
I might be... I think he was saying it about B bodies in particular. The brake warning light bulb. I’ll find it I’ve just been working 14 hour days so the only real goof off time I get is to pop in and see what is up with all you guys while I’m in germ jail waiting to be cleared onto a job site. Believe it or not the only 2 places I cruised right into no problem were the Ridgecrest hospital and AV college both w generator issues. I guess they were just happy somebody’s still working out here. I’ve been getting home about 830 and falling asleep w my shoes on Lol!!!
 

James Romano

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If you are running the old electro-mechanical voltage regulator---get rid of it!
Go to Autozone and plug n play the this electronic regulator
VR706.

I fixed a half dozen old Mopars with this and they are still running around ....

Had to order it online ... Seemed every AutoZone in Long Island is out of stock. Must be a Covid-19 thing.
 

cbarge

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Had to order it online ... Seemed every AutoZone in Long Island is out of stock. Must be a Covid-19 thing.
I usually order mine from the Watertown,NY store and buy 2 or 3 at a time to make it worth their time shipping it in and save me time crossing the border and doing repairs on other Mopars that I get requested to fix.
 

James Romano

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I usually order mine from the Watertown,NY store and buy 2 or 3 at a time to make it worth their time shipping it in and save me time crossing the border and doing repairs on other Mopars that I get requested to fix.
Have you changed over to electronic ignition? Or do you keep your points? I was thinking of changing mine over
 

cbarge

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Have you changed over to electronic ignition? Or do you keep your points? I was thinking of changing mine over
Summit Electronic ignition kit included the orange ECU distributor and pigtail.
Has a really good advance curve the big block really likes.
Along withthe ignition upgrade,and VR706 I also did a relay wire harness for the headlights and installed an electronic voltage limiter for tyhe instrument cluster and did a full LED conversion.
I also run a Powermaster 70 AMP "Roundback" alternator with extra fieldwire grounded and doubled up on the wiring on the charging system and bypassed the bulkhead and ammeter gauge.
All for the sake of reliability of the electrical system.
 

The Goose

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Have you changed over to electronic ignition? Or do you keep your points? I was thinking of changing mine over
I bought the new style regulator from a guy on this board for my 69 it works great. I run points and I had an old school shop rebuild my original alternator. Finding an old untouched one can be hard but if you can take it and get it rebuilt and you’ll never be sorry. It’s the only way to go I’ll never buy another from a parts house unless my back is against the wall and even then I’ll be damned if I give them back my core.
 

James Romano

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I bought the new style regulator from a guy on this board for my 69 it works great. I run points and I had an old school shop rebuild my original alternator. Finding an old untouched one can be hard but if you can take it and get it rebuilt and you’ll never be sorry. It’s the only way to go I’ll never buy another from a parts house unless my back is against the wall and even then I’ll be damned if I give them back my core.
I agree with that. My alternator is my original...well it's the right type, I can only assume it's original as it looked like it was. I had it rebuilt just for the sake of reliability. At $50 for a full rebuild and repaint, I wasn't saying no.
 

James Romano

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Summit Electronic ignition kit included the orange ECU distributor and pigtail.
Has a really good advance curve the big block really likes.
Along withthe ignition upgrade,and VR706 I also did a relay wire harness for the headlights and installed an electronic voltage limiter for tyhe instrument cluster and did a full LED conversion.
I also run a Powermaster 70 AMP "Roundback" alternator with extra fieldwire grounded and doubled up on the wiring on the charging system and bypassed the bulkhead and ammeter gauge.
All for the sake of reliability of the electrical system.
I like some of your ideas. I'm thinking of doing some of that as well. I don't like the idea of the entire charging system running through 1 gauge. I was thinking of adding a thermal block and extending the wires to the gauge so that it still works and the rest are ganged together properly.

The other stuff sounds good too. Any diagrams or write-ups you may have done? Would be great to pass on these mod designs
 

The Goose

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I like some of your ideas. I'm thinking of doing some of that as well. I don't like the idea of the entire charging system running through 1 gauge. I was thinking of adding a thermal block and extending the wires to the gauge so that it still works and the rest are ganged together properly.

The other stuff sounds good too. Any diagrams or write-ups you may have done? Would be great to pass on these mod designs
Go to Richard ehrenbergs page moparaction.net or on allpar. The guy is a Chrysler genius.
 

James Romano

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Go to Richard ehrenbergs page moparaction.net or on allpar. The guy is a Chrysler genius.
Lol... That's what I've been reading the past few days since my initial post. Great stuff. What gauge did you use and is your ammeter still working? Says it won't be as accurate, which is fine, I just want it to work for the sake of it being there.
 

James Romano

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Based on his recommendations in this article ... Vintage Chrysler electrical repairs and updates

Just ordered the 10 gauge wire, 14 gauge fusible link.. a new horn relay and starter relay as well. Figured I'd rework the whole area with new stuff and clean everything up while I'm at it. Car was repainted at some point and has a lot of overspray on the wires.

I'm definately looking forward to running that dual charging line and pulling some amps out from that bulkhead connector.
 

cbarge

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What gauge did you use and is your ammeter still working?
I opted not to use an aftermarket volt gauge.
After doing the shunt and bypassing the bulkhead,I kept my ammeter working.
Albeit not 100% accurate but I know when shit happens!! LOL
You can use any aftermarket voltmeter by itself or as part of a 3 gauge package.
Simply feed it from a switched 12 volt source and ground it to any metal surface under the dash.
Hope this helps
 

James Romano

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ok.. got home from work... opened the box from Autozone.. says VR706 on the box... in it was a transpo-cn c8010-33819. Talk about getting robbed... I could have paid half the freakin' price for this thing... I guess the switched over to this model from the other VR706 Sliver metal casing. This new style is all plastic, and the the epoxy is part of the cover. There is no swapping anything. Going to try it tomorrow and see if it works.

Same piece at half the price AutoCrap sells it at...

New Regulator Fits Vintage Chrysler Models w/ Round Back Alternators 1889960
 

cbarge

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ok.. got home from work... opened the box from Autozone.. says VR706 on the box... in it was a transpo-cn c8010-33819. Talk about getting robbed... I could have paid half the freakin' price for this thing... I guess the switched over to this model from the other VR706 Sliver metal casing. This new style is all plastic, and the the epoxy is part of the cover. There is no swapping anything. Going to try it tomorrow and see if it works.

Same piece at half the price AutoCrap sells it at...

New Regulator Fits Vintage Chrysler Models w/ Round Back Alternators 1889960
Thats too bad. I usually pay 24 to 27. bux per regulator in the past.
 

James Romano

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I can't find a single bit of info on this thing... so no idea how this is going to go. Says it's a direct fit. I guess they won't be selling the one you have... and this is the standard replacement now. Real cheap on Amazon as well ($12.50 each). Looks like I'm buying two on Amazon and returning one to Autozone for my 35 bucks back. Jerks...
 
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