You're pretty witty today! LOL!
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- Thread starter bulldogchesty
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You're pretty witty today! LOL!
Dave, don't you work in construction or a floor expert IIRC?
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Yes.... Job super for a builder of Apartment bldgs. We also own and maintain the buildings and neighborhoods after completion.
That's cool! Are they in decent neighborhoods?
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Considered luxury apartments... Granite, tile, hardwood,SS appliances, some have garages and fireplaces.
Wow! Nice! I might move to Jersey!
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
I know your kidding but nobody moves to Jersey...
bulldogchesty
Senior Member
Polara, if there is anything else that looks wrong, please tell me. Hurricane season starts in June. I can work with wood, but I don't like it. Okay, here come the wood jokes. Bring it on bitches.
Yep, just kidding.......unless I hit the Mega Millions or Powerball.
I had enough moving around the world during my 20 years in the Army. I don't want to move ever again.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
How far do you want to take it?... I don't know how far your footings go down, or what the Florida requirement is . Your footings do more than just support, they also hold down . You may want to consider using some anchor bolts through that bottom plate into each footing .
They also use what they call a hurricane clip. You can get those at Home Depot or the Lowes. They are a metal nail on fastener that you will want to use to tie the roof rafters and your wall together.
I don't have any building in the framing stages right now for a reference photo shoot.
If you do decide to beef it up and use the
header you will want to put a couple studs on each end of that ( king studs) and at least two more at each end under the header for support of all that weight ( jack studs)...
I am not an engineer and only applying my opinion from what I think I am seeing in the photo.....
They also use what they call a hurricane clip. You can get those at Home Depot or the Lowes. They are a metal nail on fastener that you will want to use to tie the roof rafters and your wall together.
I don't have any building in the framing stages right now for a reference photo shoot.
If you do decide to beef it up and use the
header you will want to put a couple studs on each end of that ( king studs) and at least two more at each end under the header for support of all that weight ( jack studs)...
I am not an engineer and only applying my opinion from what I think I am seeing in the photo.....
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
You may want to do a quick Google image search to get some ideas or understanding of what I am suggesting, especially if you are worried about Hurricane's
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
What's the rough rule of thumb on header spans between supports?
1" per foot?
1x4's for a 4 ft span. 1x6's for a 6' span. 1x12's for 12', etc....??
1" per foot?
1x4's for a 4 ft span. 1x6's for a 6' span. 1x12's for 12', etc....??
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Never heard of a rough rule of thumb... Not sure I even understand the question with those numbers.....
Most dimensional lumber used for framing is 2x 4"... Or 2 x 6 "... Since it appears Dave is using 2 x 4"s it is 3 1/2 " wide. He can nail almost any 2 X material together and with a 1/ 2" packer can get his width. ........ Length and height for that header...? That depends on the load it carries
Most dimensional lumber used for framing is 2x 4"... Or 2 x 6 "... Since it appears Dave is using 2 x 4"s it is 3 1/2 " wide. He can nail almost any 2 X material together and with a 1/ 2" packer can get his width. ........ Length and height for that header...? That depends on the load it carries
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Yep, that's why I buy the pre-fab sheds from Home Depot!
Just stick a block under it & you'll be fine.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
There are multiple things that need to be done here.
Keeping the two footing design I would cut the wall down so a header can be put in.
Keep the end boards full height and cut all the others down, a 4x6 or 4x8 header should be good.
Double up the outboard boards with one cut to fit under the header, lookup jack studs and king studs.
Next the entire wall structure needs to be under the roof structure.
You might just get away with just putting 1/2 ply on both sides of the wall and nailling every 6"
Alan
Keeping the two footing design I would cut the wall down so a header can be put in.
Keep the end boards full height and cut all the others down, a 4x6 or 4x8 header should be good.
Double up the outboard boards with one cut to fit under the header, lookup jack studs and king studs.
Next the entire wall structure needs to be under the roof structure.
You might just get away with just putting 1/2 ply on both sides of the wall and nailling every 6"
Alan
Oops, yea the roof needs to sit on the wall. I wouldn't worry about jack or king studs or a header though. Just get sheathing on one side & you'll be fine.
Have the Amish build it for you...
68plymouth383
Senior Member
Here's the crew........
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
I missed that on my device...........Yeah, That is important.
Below shows some basic framing .. The small header over the window is non load bearing...
Note the "silver clips" where the roof trusses meet the top of the wall, those are considered Hurricane clips and is what you would want to use to tie in your roof rafters to the top of your wall....
This was on google also, what they are calling a trimmer I am calling a Jack. I would double up on the Jack and King, two at each end, minimal.
The Sole plate is also called a bottom plate, obviously the one up top is called a top plate.....
Just trying to help Dave, for someone that doesn't like to work with wood, you put everything straight and nice........
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