Strange volts

[Montana Mopar iii]

So I replaced my battery in my 68 fury iii then my alternator was replaced... Now my alternator gage is constantly bouncing from D to C and my lights get bright then dim depending on where the gage is bouncing ... Just replaced my voltage regulator and nothing any suggestions??? Tia

 

[FURYGT]

What voltage regulator are you using? Did it do the same thing with the old voltage regulator?

 

[Montana Mopar iii]

What voltage regulator are you using? Did it do the same thing with the old voltage regulator?

Yes the old one did the same thing... And the new vr looks identical to the original... Someone told me to replace the ballist resistor....

 

[FURYGT]

What is the alternator's output? Are you running an electronic ignition? What started the parts replacements?

 

[Montana Mopar iii]

The battery was the first replacement from a 540 cca to a 850 cca battery.. then alternator and now voltage regulator... Not sure about the alternators output ...except for the pulley it looks identical to the original... And yes it's a electronic ignition... I don't know much about this car I've only had her since Father's day

 

[1970FuryConv]

Mechanical voltage regulators can be very unreliable. Converting to an electronic voltage regulator might help. It's the stainless steel flat pack to the left of the windshield wiper motor in the picture. It would take a different alternator and 1 additional wire, but would give a lot more reliability. Best of luck!

 

[traintech55]

First, whoever told you to replace the ballast resistor is wrong, that is a part of the ignition system, not the charging system
Second, is it possible to post some pictures of the voltage regulator and the alternator? Chrysler made some running changes during the early 70's, some parts have to be modified to work in the older cars,
Third, Do you know if the new voltage regulator has electronic internals, or mechanical? It is possible if it has the mechanical internals for the regulator not to be calibrated correctly.
Fourth, It is also possible your ammeter gauge is going bad, all the voltage used in the car is fed thru the ammeter. With a volt meter hooked across the battery and the engine running you should have a steady 14.2 volts.
Good luck and welcome to the site. Bill

 

[Big_John]

Someone told me to replace the ballist resistor....

Stop taking advice from that person on anything to do with cars.

 

[FURYGT]

Did you order a stock replacement alternator? It is VERY important for many reasons to know the amperage output of the alternator your installed. There may be a tag on it. If the voltage regulators that the car had and that you used as a replacement were stock type, mechanical voltage regulators, they are known to have a very short lifespan with electronic ignitions. They are not compatible. You need a solid state type voltage regulator and have a few choices. You can use the one that I and others sell on eBay that look like the factory voltage a regulator or you can either the '70 & up style Chrysler voltage regulator or some other type of solid state voltage regulator.

 

[FURYGT]

Mopar Voltage Regulator - Electronic Solid State with Correct Restoration Look | eBay

I am not pushing you to buy from me but you may find the details in my eBay listing helpful. Feel free to email me directly with questions.

Bill

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Bouncing fast or slow. Fast may be diodes or rectifier, slow points toward regulator.
Whoever told you the ballast resistor, show them the door and give them directions to the Toyota dealer.

 

[Davea Lux]

It sounds like you might have installed a mechanical regulator. These have contact points that open or close when a certain voltage measurement is reached. Does the ammeter go back and forth all the time, or just at idle? Bouncing of the ammeter at idle is normal as the gauge will react each time the points open or close. This is very common with a fully charged battery. As stated in the earlier posts, you can not run electronic ignition with a mechanical regulator, the electronic ignition is not designed to compensate voltage spikes caused by the the opening and closing of the mechanical points and will fry itself fairly quickly. If the cover of your regulator has screws, take the cover off to see if it has a points. If so you will need to replace it with an electronic unit.

Dave

 

[CBODY67]

IF the alternator gauge was acting like a battery charger as the battery approaches full charge, bouncing a little, that's one thing, BUT wildly bouncing from C to D and back again, would indicate some sort of intermittent load on the system, to me. The alternator produces AC voltage and the diodes don't allow the negative part of the voltage cycle to happen, IF they were working correctly. When a diode fails, it will allow voltage back into the alternator and usually drain the battery overnight.

Get the alternator checked.

CBODY67

 

[Davea Lux]

Stop taking advice from that person on anything to do with cars.

Wonder if that was the same guy who hooked the garden hose up to the PCV and brake booster.

Dave

 

[Gerald Morris]

Mopar Voltage Regulator - Electronic Solid State with Correct Restoration Look | eBay

I am not pushing you to buy from me but you may find the details in my eBay listing helpful. Feel free to email me directly with questions.

Bill

Your regulator is good! I bought one a few months ago, just to be sure of my own charging system. Happily, no observable change, so the one I had was good too. I DO recommend your product.