Summer in Vietnam

74th B-DAY dinner:
Ly went and got the chicken & pork at the market and earlier got 2 big vanilla ice cream cartons for me on her motorbike. May and I bought pineapple, onions, squash, tofu, etc. for the BBQ dinner. They had charcoal and a metal bowl. I bought a large folding grille. The day before I walked up the street with a cardboard box to pick up kindling. I found a bunch not far up the hill on the side of the road. Good thing I did as they did not have any. I said 7 PM for dinner and started the fire at 4:00.
The metal pan had these manufactured charcoal cylinders (about 1.5 inches in diameter) with a hollow core. All over town the same stuff so no getting anything else. They were sitting in about 3 inches of ash. So nearly impossible to start. The owner's husband was gung-ho on this and finally
I dumped all of it on the ground and put the charcoal back in the pan sans the ash....DUH! He got out a hairdryer to help get it going...it did. So, the 2 of us cooked our asses off for over 2 hours.
May' sister and a sister-in-law and her 9-year-old girl came up from the village and I got them a room next to ours so they could spend the night. Also, the owner's son who works with May's cousin came and said cousin also came over. Ly and May were in the kitchen prepping. Around 7 PM all was ready.
SURPRISE! Out came a bouquet of roses and a birthday cake with my name on it and a birthday hat! Very nice indeed. We sat on the floor on 2 mats and had a grand meal. There was canned beer poured into iced glasses. Ly made a sticky rice with coconut in this special steamer too. We had cake and ice cream Plus Trader Joe's dark chocolate/almonds and fresh cut mango. Everyone was mighty happy too. Lots of leftovers too.
Next morning, I asked Ly what I owed her for the room and all the food she bought. She pulled out a handwritten food list. All of it (room/food) came to 30 dollars. May and I and her 3 family members got up and for breakfast and we walked down the street to our favorite noodle place.
Great meal but at the end the 9-year-old girl grabbed one of the 2 bottles of water on the table and had a gulp. She had this look of horror on her face and tried to get rid of it...and did in the trash bucket under the table. The problem was both were filled with rice wine...essentially the same as vodka. It was funny and she recovered and will not do that again.

Also, this morning I bought some tongs for the BBQ as the was none and a small fan.....I do plan on doing this again.
ALL of the BBQ's here are made to order as there are metal shops all over town. NONE of them had a lid to cover the grille and everyone here
has a fan running ALL the time when they are cooking. Weird. All the grilles are at restaurants not out in front of houses.

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I went around and took pictures of the Hmong and Dzao vendors at the market where May used to work. Now she hangs out with her friends and buys stuff when it comes in. Also have been taking pictures of the vendors that come in mostly on the weekends to sell to the vendors here. They come from villages that are at least 3 or more hours from here.. Some I recognize from many years ago as they have been coming here for ages.

We had a visit from one of May's brothers' sons who has 2 children and is 31 years old. He has been working at a hotel but is quitting and also does some guided tours of the villages thru some agency. I asked him if any Vietnamese ever go on those tours...He said NEVER. He said the Vietnamese do not like to walk so they do not go...only Westerners go.

The son of the owners of the hotel comes by often and his English is very good. He has a room here so one of the 10 rooms is reserved for him. He also stays at the hotel he works at also. I asked him what his parents got for their retirement. He said mom worked for the Viet equivalent of the USA CDC so she worked in the health part of it. She gets 200 dollars per month. Dad gets nothing because he was a farmer. The hotel is paid for.

The last 2 days May has been cleaning up the room and putting things we are bringing to the US in bags. Will need at least one more to finish it. I talked to 2 tourists, and they decided to stay here in my hotel for 2 weeks. The man is from India and the girlfriend is from Belarus. They got a room across from us. We decided to do a BBQ. Went to the market and got a whole chicken and some pork. We had lots of other things to add to the feast.
My new BBQ changes worked well and having a small fan got the fire going in a jiffy. We managed to use the old charcoal pan as a makeshift cover to smoke the food. The owners joined us for a grand meal.




Vendors who sell at the market in Sapa (that do not live nearby) 2023

Sapa Vietnam: The Hmong and Red Dzao Vendors at the Market 2023
 
Karan and Gala made a curry chicken dinner...yummy! The owners of the hotel are pictured with their son (with glasses) who joined us.....

Dinner at the hotel: Sapa, Vietnam July 19, 2023

Bamboo, Hemp, Sticky Rice, Dzao, Hmong, Wasp Nests

Lots of bamboo in the market today and the same for hemp. Sticky rice in bamboo tubes. A new (to me) Dzao with a colorful scarf on the head and all sorts of things hanging off....there were 2 of them selling some stuff outside the market. A Hmong woman with a skirt so she is not from here either.
A store had a bunch of wasp nests out front on the sidewalk for sale. A few very large wasps were wandering about. First time I've seen that.

Bamboo, Hemp, Sticky Rice, Dzao, Hmong, Wasp Nests: Sapa, Vietnam 7-23-2023
 
Are they eating the wasps?

I see the Hmong with a skirt, but it appears most of the women have skirts. Do the local ladies have shorts under the skirts whereas the non local Hmong women have just knickers under the skirts? I'm a little lost on that one.

And, you noted the ladies with the different hats were selling things "outside" of the market. Are they not allowed in the market? Or are they trying to get folks money before they enter the market? Interesting.
 
eating the larvae of the wasps

the Black Hmong who live here wear black shorts, other Hmong who live further out from the city wear skirts

outside of the market means outside along one of the outer walls of the market VS inside the market
 
What is the reason for inner regions of Hmong wearing shorts and the outer regions wearing skirts?

Yum. Wasp larvae fed with spiders and bugs. Sounds amazing. Seriously though, have you tried them? Are they sweet? Taste like what?
 
Pao is the son of one of May's brothers. He lives below Sapa in a 1-bedroom house he built himself. He did the plumbing/electrical also.
He is 31 years old and has 2 children. His wife was off to work that morning and we saw her on her motorbike as she passed us
on the road. Both work at 2 different hotels. His English is very good.
The house is up on a mountainside. It took over an hour to walk there from our hotel. He met us about 40 minutes from his house
and helped us walk up to his house as it was remote, and we would have never been able to find it. The last part of it was steep and
somewhat slippery as the ground was a little wet. A very small house on a steep slope with corn growing all around. Some family
members were picking the corn. He has a tiny garden, about 30 chickens, and puppy.
He made us lunch. He has a dead 4 year old refrigerator and a half dead rice cooker (timer doesn't work) in the kitchen. Has a working
water filter. There is a firepit in the kitchen with a hood over it, so the smoke goes up and out. Some of the family came down from the
corn cutting and hung out with us. I made friends with the puppy and had my fingers in the ears in no time and other itchy/scratchy stuff
so, she was super happy.
Pao must have the biggest balls in all the world...why? Because he brought that refrigerator on his back by himself up to the house from
way the hell down below. I said how did he do it? He said "I'm strong". It was hard enough for May and I to get up there without slipping.
All of the materials for the house were brought up the same way. There is lots of plywood black in color, on the walls. Concrete floor and
one small, enclosed bedroom...the only interior door in the house. No bathroom you just go outside and find a place to go.
So I'm going to give him enough money to buy a new refrigerator and rice cooker and whatever else he needs.

the pics from the beginning.....:

2 of May and Pao together

kitchen

kids on the bed looking at their phones

House with giant boulder on the side ...Poa says he is going to dig a hole next to the boulder until it falls in.
He has tried to break it up but too big and hard to do.

fog

son with his hand on the defunct fridge

lunch on the table

on the way home someone herding cows on the road

hemp plants alongside the road

shot from far back of the hotel in the center with bulldozed land in foreground...Pao's house is to the left and up on the top of the 1st peak

last one: wiring from hell on a pole along the main road down from Sapa




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It sure seems like a peaceful life.
I can totally understand your pleasure in the time you have there.
That wiring on the other hand, looks chaotic as hell!

I'm curious, does the hemp bud out the same as other cannabis?
What keeps the folks from smoking cannabis?
Do they use tobacco?
Is there a smoking vice that folks have there?
 
I'm curious, does the hemp bud out the same as other cannabis? yes
What keeps the folks from smoking cannabis? nothing as it has no drug value at all but great fiber for clothing
Do they use tobacco? yes in a homemade bamboo water pipe
Is there a smoking vice that folks have there? tobacco
 
Sister Za's House in Giang Tachai Vietnam 7-25-2023

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The house is about a 2 hour walk downhill from our hotel on a main highway. Dodging traffic is not my favorite way to walk.
At times there are sidewalks but most of the time not or they are cluttered with parked vehicles. Za's husband picked us one
at a time on his motorbike about an hour down and took us to the house. The house is new and mostly finished and right on
the highway so lots of traffic in front of the house. The 2nd floor will be added later when there is money to finish it. They sold
their old house that was nearby but set back from the road. WHY? Never got a good reason.
There is no garden and there is an area for the ducks, chickens and the pigs next door that also includes a squat toilet (bombs away!)
May was there to check out the new home and to teach her sister how to make stuffed animals....something May excels at. All the
Hmong at the market and out on the streets are selling machine made stuffed animals from China (the king of crap). So May
brought 2 examples she made in AZ.... male and female (with genitals) to show off her skills. All the vendors love them but getting
them to actually make them is going to be a difficult process. That is due to the time needed to make one.
The house is really large and tall but there is no 2nd floor yet. While we were there, she made lunch. Soon after a bunch of men showed
up with these huge pieces of lumber and other wood they had cut. They put it out in front of the house about 2 feet from the road.
People drive by and stop to inquire about the wood. These guys then came into the house to drink rice wine. About 6 of them. This
continued for a few hours. I was outside hanging out with May and her sister. The guys were really drunk. One came out and grabbed his
motorbike and could barely get on it. They tried to get him to stay but off he went. The women rarely get drunk because well they have
children running all over and prefer to stay alive to take care of them. Za's husband smokes a water pipe with tobacco cuz he didn't
get the memo about how bad it is for you. If he makes it to 75 it will be a miracle.
May wanted to spend the night and possibly 2 there so I opted out and got a taxi to take me back to town.

May's sister is sitting at the sewing machine. You can see some of the wood outside on the road and more next to the house.
The temperatures here are significantly warmer than our hotel in Sapa as it is much lower in elevation.
 
just bought this today it is up from my hotel owner says it just needs a new fuel pump

DSCN0768.JPG
DSCN0769.JPG
runs great

DSCN0770.JPG
 
May's brother had a son. That son had a son and he got married. The wedding party was yesterday.
May and I walked to the house. It took 2 hours and was all downhill. Slippery as it had been raining.
We each fell at least twice on the way there. The house we had been to many years ago and now there
are 3 houses all together and the old one has been rebuilt. May's brother died but the family lives on.
The family rented tables and chairs for the party and those were trucked in and then had to be carried
to the house from where the road ends. I'm glad I wasn't part of that. We got there early enough to watch
the chopping of meat and the massive cooking operation. At one point maybe 25 people were involved
in the food prep which started way before the party. began and before we arrived.
There was a shitload of rice wine and after dinner there was lots of drinking and eventually lots of wasted
men...the women do not get wrecked like the men as they have responsibilities like staying alive to take
care of their offspring, etc. I brought my wig at that point and that thing looked horrible on the straight haired
people there plus the drunks went bonkers. There was a good rain during the party and the river in the valley
below went up and turned brown from the mud. May stayed overnight and I hiked out with Steffen and his
daughter.
May and I had come in a different way but the 3 of us went another way where we could get a taxi back to town.
It was steep going down and we were on a concrete path. Steffen and his daughter were ahead of me, and they fell.
Then we had to take our shoes off to cross a side stream that was now a muddy mess.

Cicada picture: this one was about 8 feet away. Lots of them are singing and the sound is unbelievably loud. Song lasts
a couple of minutes. The first part is a clicking and a buzz that eventually turns into an unbelievably loud noise
that is more like a siren. Even at the distance I was at it hurts your ears There was one even louder they call Can Go.
One was singing but they are way up high in the trees and that one you can hear for a half mile easily. That one
sounds exactly like a one cylinder motor with no muffler.

All the blood and guts were from a pig they slaughtered...it was living at the house but was now dinner. An amazing amount of meat,
guts and blubber. Lots of people are involved in cutting, chopping, and cleaning. Much too fatty for me but I grilled over charcoal
some that was not entirely riddled with fat. I mostly ate the veggie stuff. After the first day we hitched rides in taxis as the 4
Aussie guests were taking taxis in and out, so we went along. The last day it was just May and me back to Sapa. We headed out for the taxi
and it started raining just before it got dark. We headed up the valley to the main highway to Sapa. More rain and very heavy.

Now the road turned into a river as it is a steep climb back to Sapa. Visibility was maybe 20 feet. I see waves coming up off rocks on the road.
Then lots of rocks and the driver slowed way down. We bottomed out in the taxi as it had low clearance while some pickups
went past us. Waterfalls were coming off the mountain on our right. The water got deeper. Eventually traffic stopped in from of us.
The driver and I got out and walked up to see why nobody was moving.

There was a mudslide about at least 100 feet long there. I thought I'd try to see how deep it was. I didn't get too far, and it was over a foot
deep and getting much deeper with parts of trees in there too. So back to the taxi and managed to turn around. Went back down to a
hotel we had stayed at over a month ago along the river in the valley. It was running big time and noisy. We had dinner there and breakfast too.
We got word the road was now cleared. In the morning the owner and the 2 of us took a taxi back to Sapa. Lots of rocks on the road and parts
were damaged. Another adventure and another big-time rain here....have seen it before.

All the money from the gifts of the guests to the newly married couple was tallied up in the morning on a table in front of the house.
Itemized were who and how much they contributed. Lots of people looking on and helping the tally. There were over 300 entries in the
ledger book. So easily the total number of people that attended might have been 400 since each entry was often more than one person.

Lots of drunks by afternoon as there was lots of rice wine. I had none. No fights or anyone barfing. It was loud and fun to see all these people
together.

All the tables, metal stools, dishes, etc. were mostly rented. Big problem getting them there and back as it is impossible to drive up to the house.
You can get close to it but the last maybe quarter of a mile has to be packed on motorbikes as the path is way too narrow for a vehicle. It took
lots of trips to get it there and back.

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The Best & Biggest Ice Cream Store in the World!! "Kem Trang Tien" Hanoi, Vietnam 8-8-2023



The ice cream store:

In Hanoi I have been coming to this place for years. It is by the lake next to the Old Quarter. Last night we went, and it had been remolded on the inside since the last visit in 2018.
Holy crap... I would say at least 400 people were there inside and out. Since 1958 they have been making ice cream there. When you get near the place it is mobbed outside as there are 2 places to buy there, and gobs of people are on both sides of the street scarfing down on ice cream. It is either cones or bars. Soft serve cones or regular ice cream. But by far the bars are the ones mostly eaten or taken home.
The bars are not wrapped in anything and lots of customers have boxes filled up with them to take home on their motorbikes. Lots and lots of motorbikes were parked inside the cavernous place and there were 2 security cops in there trying to keep order with the crowd inside. INSANE! Did I forget to mention that all the flavors I have tried are just ******* amazing? I ate 4 different bars and had a mochi one in the shape of 5 balls. Inside I think there were 6 places to order and the 2 outside!! All had lines but they went quickly.
By god the place is absolutely crazy good and there are no drinks or anything other than ice cream. There is no way to really describe once you get inside as it is so gigantic your brain has no way to comprehend what you are seeing as there is no reference point you can relate to.
I found this place by accident maybe 10 years ago. How might you ask? Because once you get near it all you see is people eating ice cream on the sidewalks. Only an idiot vegetable would not try the product out when you see a wall of happy customers gagging them down. We went there a second time the next night too....
Oh, and the correct way to piss notice was at a bus stop on the way to Hanoi. Saw a similar one is Sapa on how to ****...no standing on the seat you need to sit down to ****....Sorry no picture of that one.

Kem tràng tiền the website

the pictures:

The Best & Biggest Ice Cream Store in the World!! "Kem Trang Tien" Hanoi, Vietnam 8-8-2023
 
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