TF 727 "How To" shift lever seal replacement

[MBar]

With help and encouragement from several members, I was able to replace the seal without dropping the pan. I had a trans fluid leak that created a puddle under the car. After cleaning and inspecting, I determined it was the shift lever seal.. I ordered the seal and tool kit but was dreading doing this. Fortunately, got it done and it wasn't so bad at all.

Thank you to Dan Scully for the link to the parts.
Thank you to SAForwardLook for the invaluable tip to use a c-clamp.

I took photos along the way and I'm creating this post in hopes of helping the next guy.
I did this in the garage and with the car on stands as high as possible.
Here are the tools I used:
1/4 inch ratchet with small extensions and 7/16th socket
C-clamp
5/8 and 9/16 combo wrenches
Needle-nose pliers
Flat-head screwdriver
Small piece of plywood
Medium channel locks
Seal and tool set from eBay which includes extractor and installer
Brake cleaner and paper towels
Patience and about an hour or 2

 

[MBar]

Step 1 remove the levers and clean

Used 7/16 socket to remove the 2 bolts that lock in the 2 levers. They use square nuts and the top one was a bit stubborn and I had to hold the nut in. The top lever was stubborn to lift off but I pried it with the screwdriver. Kind of scary because I was afraid to damage the rod but it went ok. Later on re-assembly I use the screwdriver to pry open the lever for an easier fit.. used paper towels and brake cleaner to get the area clean.
None of this is visible from below so I used photos a lot. Better to take longer and be patient. In the lower photo, I see clearly the leak and the cleaned surfaces.

 

[MBar]

Step 2. Use the extractor tool.

Some cars have clearance issue with the tool. I did not. Pic below shows clearance of extractor tool in my 72 Fury III (360 v8). I had no need to lower the trans mount for clearance although some have mentioned needing to do that.

The black tool is supposed to screw down into the seal for grip and then the bolt on top will apply the lift. Remove the bolt from the top because you don't need it until you bite the seal enough. First I tried to just press down as hard as possible while turning with a ratchet. No way!
Thankfully, SAForwardLook provided the c-clamp tip:
... cut a piece of plywood to distribute the load on the pan and use the c-clamp to apply downward pressure on the tool. O.k. this got a bit scary as I had to really clamp HARD while I turned the top of the tool with 5/8th wrench. It took me a couple of tries because I didn't want to overdo it. You know it worked if you remove the clamp and the tool stays solid in the seal.
Once you remove the clamp, insert and turn the top bolt of the tool with 9/16 wrench and ... Eureka!!!

 

[MBar]

Step 3. Install new seal

One of the pics shows the area with the seal removed and fluid seeping..
The installer tool fits over the rod and it is pretty exact. I was concerned that it would bind on the rod after use and that I would have a hard time taking it off... I tried some emory cloth and even lube and it seemed too tight.. oh well...
Used the c-clamp again to press the seal down with the tool after positioning the seal with my fingers as straight as possible. Worked well and I watched it slowly lower. When it seemed to bottom-out, I removed the tool (using the channel locks) and found that the seal was "almost in" flush. I debated going further because i was afraid of going too far but decided to redo and was able to get it seated flush. Took some bravery so just be careful and patient but you do want the seal flush. One of the pics below shows the tool almost flush and the other shows the completed install.

 

[MBar]

Last Step. Cleanup and re-install levers.
I invested time in cleaning up the two retention bolt threads...just ran the nuts up and down a few times.. the levers fit only a certain way on the shaft. The bottom (shift) lever went on easily (use the longer of the 2 bolts)The shorter bolt for the top lever (throttle) appeared a little bent but worked ok. I did use the screwdriver to pry open the clamping portion of the throttle lever so it would go onto the shaft easier. As the FSM says, be sure the lever seats all the way down on the shaft.
Re-attach the linkage and enjoy!
I have such appreciation and gratitude for the members on this forum. I would not have been able to do most of the work on my car without their encouragement and support...you know who you are..Thank you!

 

[jason99]

Tagging this one as it's on my list to figure out all the spots the 727 on my big block 74 Fury that are leaking. Thanks for the detailed write up.

 

[bigmoparjeff]

Thanks! I knew about this method using the official Chrysler tools, but had no idea that the shift shaft seal tools were available from the aftermarket. I'll be getting a set very soon.

Jeff

 

[MarPar]

Thank you for the write-up @MBar! I too have bookmarked this thread for future use!

 

[1970FuryConv]

Thanks! Bookmarked

 

[Big_John]

Excellent! This is on the "to do" list for this winter and this answers a few questions for me.

 

[70NEWYORKER]

Well Done!!!!!!!!

 

[saforwardlook]

Last Step. Cleanup and re-install levers.
I invested time in cleaning up the two retention bolt threads...just ran the nuts up and down a few times.. the levers fit only a certain way on the shaft. The bottom (shift) lever went on easily (use the longer of the 2 bolts)The shorter bolt for the top lever (throttle) appeared a little bent but worked ok. I did use the screwdriver to pry open the clamping portion of the throttle lever so it would go onto the shaft easier. As the FSM says, be sure the lever seats all the way down on the shaft.
Re-attach the linkage and enjoy!
I have such appreciation and gratitude for the members on this forum. I would not have been able to do most of the work on my car without their encouragement and support...you know who you are..Thank you!

Really pleased the method worked well for you Mbar. It took me about three fails the first time I tried to use that special tool before honing in on using this method. I have never seen any suggestion such as the one I described. Thank you for the step by step instructions with photos. By the third time you have used that tool, the job goes very quickly, with the most time taken to get things clean and get the proper tools in place to use and the car jacked up with jackstands in place.

 

[MBar]

Really pleased the method worked well for you Mbar. It took me about three fails the first time I tried to use that special tool before honing in on using this method. I have never seen any suggestion such as the one I described. Thank you for the step by step instructions with photos. By the third time you have used that tool, the job goes very quickly, with the most time taken to get things clean and get the proper tools in place to use and the car jacked up with jackstands in place.

I am very happy that you saw this, as I wanted to give you proper credit for the C-clamp tip. Without the C-clamp it would have been a crying session..I did read the reviews on the ebay post and more than one person indicated they couldn't get the tool to bite the seal...maybe if I get time I will write to the seller and suggest he provide this tip...
This was the big leak that was the last determinant in keeping the car. I am solving my PS leak in the valve body hopefully today (I improvised on the o-rings and it just doesn't adjust so I am hoping the correct parts do the trick) and then the only leak left is the rear main on the motor. Dropping the pan is not gonna be pretty so I might leave that alone as it is not a gusher. Again, thanks a million!!

 

[MarPar]

Whilst Steve and I may have differing views on a smattering of subjects, I very much respect his willingness to help others out and his passion for the lovely ladies of Mopar. I have gained so much knowledge just by surfing around this forum and reading his posts and posts by others that he has helped.

Steve is a good man in my book.

And thank you Mbar for giving Steve the proper credit he deserves.

THAT is what makes forum GREAT. The people.

 

[garyh]

Very Good ! I will be doing this shortly to my '66 Imperial. I paid a shop 300.00 to do the shift shaft seal on my '68 Dodge truck and it still leaks. So if you want it done right, Do it Yourself !

 

[commando1]

This is priceless. Extremely well written. Thank you so much.

 

[saforwardlook]

This is priceless. Extremely well written. Thank you so much.

I really like your new avatar. Way to go!

 

[mrfury68]

Good job by you! Also a very detailed and informative post on how it can be done. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Farsight]

Did someone know the part # of the Leveler seal which is recommendet to use instead of the Standard Chrysler OEM replacement part? I can remember..it was an better quality original GM seal..?

Thx

 

[saforwardlook]

Did someone know the part # of the Leveler seal which is recommendet to use instead of the Standard Chrysler OEM replacement part? I can remember..it was an better quality original GM seal..?

Thx

I usually use the National Seal p/n 8609 when I replace the selector shaft (or manual valve) seal. You can get it at Rock Auto for about $3 or even at Autozone if you need it right away for about double that price. I have had good results with the National brand of seals.