TF 727 "How To" shift lever seal replacement

Engine, Transmission & Driveline

  1. detmatt

    detmatt Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    This is excellent, I just ordered the tool with the 5 seals.:thumbsup:
     
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  2. garyh

    garyh Well-Known Member

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    MBar since it's been a couple years i was wondering if the new seal is still holding ? I replaced a leaking tail seal today and now it is time to replace the Shift shaft seal and the small Throttle lever seal. I have the seals all the tools you mentioned. The clearance seems tight in that area on my '66 Imp. I may lower the trans a little. My Driveshaft is in the shop so this is my Opportunity to Finally get this leak fixed, Thanks for your Guidance.
     
  3. MBar

    MBar Active Member

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    Hi!
    Yes, the leak has not returned... this car sits a lot but I drive it weekly or so. Wasn't so bad at all to do it...actually spent more time researching and thinking about it than doing it. My leak was real bad and she's stayed clean and dry. good luck!
     
  4. jason99

    jason99 Well-Known Member

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    This is next up for me on my 74 Fury so that I can remove one of the two tin pans under the car in the garage. Looks like the tricky bit is removing the linkage and then seeing if there is enough clearance for the removal tool.
     
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  5. garyh

    garyh Well-Known Member

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    Well, I did the two seal replacement today,Not too bad. I used the Methods and tools as stated in the thread starter. I used a bungee cord to hold the flat piece of wood on the pan for the C clamp ! Thanks MBar for this thread and glad his leaked is fixed and mine too,hopefully. Now I just have to remove the old seal from the tool !LOL

    IMG_20200614_183649421.jpg
     
  6. MBar

    MBar Active Member

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    Excellent! So out of curiosity I just went out to the toolbox and found the tool... Never did pull the old seal off the extractor!

    IMG_20200614_232319204.jpg
     
  7. garyh

    garyh Well-Known Member

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    Ha Ha, I put the seal in a vise and unscrewed it. I have had this tool for 10 years and finally got to use it !
     
  8. Stoffauge

    Stoffauge Member

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  9. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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  10. Stoffauge

    Stoffauge Member

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    ALright then I am going to order it . Thanks John
     
  11. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    The seal puller also works with long screws and the turn signal hold down, to press out the steering shaft.... Multi- Use tools. Adding the picture.
    E07FFD32-972E-4070-BA4B-960D1B784CD6.jpeg
     
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  12. Stoffauge

    Stoffauge Member

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    The shop I mentioned seams to be offline. No payment is possible, no impressum, no replies. Weird. Why are these kits sold out everywhere? Any ideas where to get one? Maybe somebody of you guys wants to get rid of one?
     
  13. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    The Performance Tool number is W84026, but I can't find one online anywhere. I did find another, more expensive version of this tool: https://smile.amazon.com/SST-1031-C...d27cd&pd_rd_wg=sKOGT&pd_rd_i=B011SBJSHA&psc=1

    Of course, IMHO, when the tool starts getting this expensive, the savings of dropping the pan to change the seal becomes moot. It's a lot easier to do this with the valve body out and really isn't it time to change the fluid and filter anyway?

    Once the valve body is out (IIRC 10 bolts) you knock the seal out and then pull a new one in with a bolt and a couple fender washers.

    YxMJw4P.jpg
     
  14. Stoffauge

    Stoffauge Member

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    Yes that’s my Problem too I don’t want to spend so much money when it’s just more time I need to invest instead . I did change the oil and filter already that’s the point . That’s why I found the leak while refilling and run it on stands . Never had so much oil in it before and I know why
     
  15. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    Ahh... I'm starting to think that we all need to start to just change that seal when the pan is off on the older cars as part of the procedure.
     
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  16. saforwardlook

    saforwardlook Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I don't abuse my vehicles so I don't feel it is usually necessary to drop the valve body when I just change the filter itself - and I don't have to do that very often since my cars are not driven that much. But even just sitting, those seals will tend to leak over the years. I find using the tool as described in this thread is a real time/hassle saver and takes just a few minutes. Also, getting a pan gasket to seal well always seems to be a challenge despite the variety of gaskets I have used and making sure the pan is straight itself. I do not relish the mess associated with dropping the pan either.

    I personally just use the tool and be done with it in just a few minutes.

    I am surprised the price has jumped so much but it is a tool I use more often than most and to me the cost even at this point is well worth it. To each his own......................
     
  17. Toolmanmike

    Toolmanmike Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Good thread and information. I made it a sticky.
     
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  18. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    Steve, this is where you and I are very different. I drive my cars (in good weather) like I stole them. I respect your choice and understand... But LOL... We're different there!

    The Chrysler gasket of late, and I can't think of the part number, seals very well. Much better than anything else offered. Gotta change that fluid sometime and dropping the valve body is cake. Quite frankly, it's not been unusual for me to find a loose bolt or three holding the valve body up either, so there's that.

    Point being though, if you should be planning to drop the pan, just do the rest. I had to switch out the throttle shaft on the valve body due to wear on my 300 when I did the seal. I never would have noticed that doing it with the tool. Now, if everything is buttoned up and tight, then yea, use the tool... but now with the price of the tool at $50, you have to consider all the options.

    It's also a great time to do that update to the part throttle downshift that I love especially living in the hills around the Finger Lakes.
     
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  19. saforwardlook

    saforwardlook Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I guess we can agree John about the part throttle kickdown conversion aspect but I mostly own 1971 and up vehicles that have it as a standard feature and only two 1970 Chrysler 300s. So I have only had to modify two of mine so far and might do the same on my two Plymouth Sport Furys. I do have a 1969 Imperial coupe that the dealer brochure claims has the part throttle kickdown as an advance feature, but I will know for sure when I get the car running soon. I can put the feature in my 1970 SFGT if Carsten allows me to make that modification to original :poke:.

    With over 20 cars, it is difficult to drive any of them regularly. I have mostly 1971 Chrysler 300s, New Yorkers and Imperials (obviously my favorites), then Dodges and couple Plymouths plus some Forward Look cars.
     
  20. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    I even did the part throttle conversion on a '65 Barracuda, which was a lot more involved of course, but well worth the effort.
     
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