68Newport512
New Member
Is this the correct adjustment?
Throttle linkage adjustment?
- Thread starter 68Newport512
- Start date
BLUPORT
Carpe Diem Cras
No. The throttle return spring should be attached to the carb linkage, and the transmission kickdown spring connects to the rear linkage. I'll post a reference from another member in my thread.
First thing, acquire a more correct throttle return spring for the application. Very important.
On some applications, it should be attached to the "U" where the throttle cable slides over the inner part of that carb linkage stud?
With that done, then acquire the correct spring for the kickdown rod for the transmission. If needed, attach it to the end of the slotted section to keep it pulled toward the front of the car. The carb linkage stud should be at the rear-most section of the slot. Check the FSM for the correct placement of the kickdown rod spring.
THEN see how it shifts, going into 3rd gear at about 1000 rpm on very light throttle.
The FSM says to put the carb at base hot idle, probably engine "off" for good measure. Then plut the slotted end of the rod on the carb linkage stud, The FSM advised to basically "re-zero" that adjustment by shortening the rod adjustment so the slotted end just touches the stud, THEN to add 2 turns preload to the rod from that point.
When I did a carb upgrade from a WWC3 to a Holley 2210 2bbl on my '66 Newport 383, I noticed that the new carb might have had a slightly different carb linkage stud position, so I readjusted it to the FSM directions. Car shifted waaayy too soon, compared to what it had been. Then I realized that the prior existing adjustment was the correct adjustment, so I put it back like it was.
To raise the base shift points a few mph for better performance, add two MORE turns of preload to the factory setting. Makes a BIG difference, needing less throttle for quicker acceleration. Zero durability issues, too.
BUT you need to get those springs "right" first, from what I can see.
CBODY67
On some applications, it should be attached to the "U" where the throttle cable slides over the inner part of that carb linkage stud?
With that done, then acquire the correct spring for the kickdown rod for the transmission. If needed, attach it to the end of the slotted section to keep it pulled toward the front of the car. The carb linkage stud should be at the rear-most section of the slot. Check the FSM for the correct placement of the kickdown rod spring.
THEN see how it shifts, going into 3rd gear at about 1000 rpm on very light throttle.
The FSM says to put the carb at base hot idle, probably engine "off" for good measure. Then plut the slotted end of the rod on the carb linkage stud, The FSM advised to basically "re-zero" that adjustment by shortening the rod adjustment so the slotted end just touches the stud, THEN to add 2 turns preload to the rod from that point.
When I did a carb upgrade from a WWC3 to a Holley 2210 2bbl on my '66 Newport 383, I noticed that the new carb might have had a slightly different carb linkage stud position, so I readjusted it to the FSM directions. Car shifted waaayy too soon, compared to what it had been. Then I realized that the prior existing adjustment was the correct adjustment, so I put it back like it was.
To raise the base shift points a few mph for better performance, add two MORE turns of preload to the factory setting. Makes a BIG difference, needing less throttle for quicker acceleration. Zero durability issues, too.
BUT you need to get those springs "right" first, from what I can see.
CBODY67
BLUPORT
Carpe Diem Cras
Thanks for that posting link! The slightly unconventional way those springs attached and worked. That little hole in the kickdown linkage pivot Is seemingly "invisible" until you find it!
Thanks,
CBODY67
68Newport512
New Member
Got it!! Thanks Fellas ..
Throttle response is so much better!
Throttle response is so much better!
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