Thumb Wheel Instrument Panel Dimmer Switch

1970FuryConv

Old Man with a Hat
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I have the dash out of my 1970 Fury Conv. Main reason is to replace dash pad and repaint shell. But interior lighting also was a problem. If you’re having problems with your instrument panel flood lighting going dim or spontaneously even cutting off and you’re constantly trying to find the sweet spot with a thumb wheel such that you can see your gages at night, I had the same problem. The switch has 3 spades. I performed a resistance test with the 2 leads of my Fluke 78 attached to the bottom spade, which is power, and the middle spade which is output to the instrument panel flood lighting. Before I sent it off to rebuild, I had gotten resistances varying between 2 mega ohms and 4 mega ohms. After Devin’s work on the switch, I got .2 ohms at dome light position, .3 ohms at top of thumb wheel travel, and 25 ohms at the lowest point of thumb wheel travel. I also like the fact that he put my initials on the varying pieces of my switch to make sure that I got my switch back. Further he is working on a 1963 Polara wagon, which demonstrates that he’s into odd stuff. I spoke to him on the phone and found him to be knowledgeable and forthright. So, if you are having the problem I mentioned, I highly recommend pulling the instrument panel dimmer switch and sending it to this man. Cost was $100.36 including shipping. Thanks to M0esy, detmatt, and 1970cat for recommending him in previous threads.

67 68 69 70 71 Dodge Polara Monaco Plymouth Fury Dimmer Switch Rebuild Service | eBay

(He also rebuilds Chrysler switches, which I guess are a different model)
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Pretty sure that's who I got my re manufactured switch from. The name and location seem right.

Appears to be a quality job and the switch works fine.
 
I had him do mine too and I was very happy with the quality and turn around. Can't beat his guarantee either.
 
I guess this is a pretty complex job to rebuilt these. I thought it was a big pot like a volume control that some tuner cleaner would fix it. What is involved here that it costs that much to rebuild?
 
I guess this is a pretty complex job to rebuilt these. I thought it was a big pot like a volume control that some tuner cleaner would fix it. What is involved here that it costs that much to rebuild?
I believe it is a matter of disassembly. lubrication, contact cleaning, proper alignment, and reassembly. If you hit yours with electrical contact cleaner and resistance drops from mega ohms to a few ohms, I'd certainly be interested to know that.

I paid the $100 to make sure the job was done right and would last. Instrument panel lighting was such a problem that I had to bypass the dimmer. I set up power off the battery buss bar of the fuse box to a toggle switch and then ran a wire to the connector for the 3 instrument panel flood light sockets. I just wanted to make sure I got rid of the problem once and for all. That toggle switch is headed for the spare electrical parts drawer.
 
I guess this is a pretty complex job to rebuilt these. I thought it was a big pot like a volume control that some tuner cleaner would fix it. What is involved here that it costs that much to rebuild?
From what I see, I think he replaces a lot of the parts. Tuner cleaner works when there is some oxidation and dirt, but it doesn't help worn contacts.

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Before you go to this level...as always start simple....try spraying electrical contact cleaner inside the switch. You would be surprised what is built up in there for decades.
 
Van's (probably other vendors too) sells a nice repro unit for $145. Or they did, because I bought one, but I don't see it on their website at this moment.
 
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