bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
I've had several requests about the trailer hitch I made to fit Jazebelle and tow our pop up camper to Carlisle. So I thought i'd post the info here.
I was able to do it without drilling any holes in the car and the method can be used on just about any car with a little modification.
I first made a cardboard template of the area on the rear of the frame rails where the bumper brackets attach, (two 1/2" bolts per side). I had two 3/8" iron brackets cut with a water jet and then welded a 90 degree 3/8" iron bracket to it. I knotched the rear frame mount hole and drilled the forward hole. By doing this I can remove the forward bracket bolt and loosen the rear .... enough to slip the hitch bracket behind the bolt and pivot it up to reinstall the forward bolt.
I located a new class III hitch in a pawn shop for 50 bucks ..... still had it's original packaging and hardware, that was designed for a toyota land cruiser. Any hitch will work as long as it will fit between the fabricated brackets.
I cut the original frame mounts off the hitch and welded a 3/8" iron "L" bracket in its place.
I then used 1/2" grade 8 bolts & nuts, (three per side), to attach the hitch to the frame brackets. A simple electrical connector with a disconnect was spliced into the cars rear light harness.
You may be able to get away with using 1/4" steel plate for your brackets but I overbuilt a little.
The trip to Carlisle and back went without a hitch..... (Hee hee ... get it...?) Nothing moved, came loose, or needed adjusting.
Once home I just reversed the install procedure to remove the hitch with no indication it was ever there. About 10 minutes.
Some pictures .......
I was able to do it without drilling any holes in the car and the method can be used on just about any car with a little modification.
I first made a cardboard template of the area on the rear of the frame rails where the bumper brackets attach, (two 1/2" bolts per side). I had two 3/8" iron brackets cut with a water jet and then welded a 90 degree 3/8" iron bracket to it. I knotched the rear frame mount hole and drilled the forward hole. By doing this I can remove the forward bracket bolt and loosen the rear .... enough to slip the hitch bracket behind the bolt and pivot it up to reinstall the forward bolt.
I located a new class III hitch in a pawn shop for 50 bucks ..... still had it's original packaging and hardware, that was designed for a toyota land cruiser. Any hitch will work as long as it will fit between the fabricated brackets.
I cut the original frame mounts off the hitch and welded a 3/8" iron "L" bracket in its place.
I then used 1/2" grade 8 bolts & nuts, (three per side), to attach the hitch to the frame brackets. A simple electrical connector with a disconnect was spliced into the cars rear light harness.
You may be able to get away with using 1/4" steel plate for your brackets but I overbuilt a little.
The trip to Carlisle and back went without a hitch..... (Hee hee ... get it...?) Nothing moved, came loose, or needed adjusting.
Once home I just reversed the install procedure to remove the hitch with no indication it was ever there. About 10 minutes.
Some pictures .......















