UCA Offset Bushing Install

@Big_John - I am not sure if it was in an accident previously but it's totally possible. The hood is the only thing on the car that has obviously been replaced as it is green on the underside, not the original gold color.

@Boydsdodge - curious why you wanted the extra Caster and if you would recommend it to others with a Cbody.

@Just Carbs - I wasn't planning on doing the alignment myself but as you pointed out, if it is a trial and error type thing it might be the better option. I'm just not sure if I have the patience for it.

Before I ripped it apart she did wander slightly but that could also have been due to the rotten rubber bits I'm replacing.
 
New rubber and a tighter adjusted steering box make a world of difference. When I changed my rear springs, I re checked the alignment, my right side was off slightly (in spec but not nominal). I also enhanced my Quick Trip alignment setup for better accuracy. Added turn plates, rear leveling blocks, and a right angle block for my wheel brackets.
As I was looking around it seems that now there are better options for about the same price than the Quick Trip system. It works for me, the car drives straight and no visible tire wear in 9,000 miles.

Upgraded the flimsy steel right angle that was hard to keep at 90 degrees with a machine 90 degree block.
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Turn plates and digital angle gauge
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I have used the offsets on A,B,E bodies, I have not installed the offsets on a C-body yet, I have only had the privilege to work on C-bodies and Imperials that have already been replaced or not needed. Saying that, when it comes time to do my bushings I will use the offsets. Mostly out of habit and that Chryslers cars have very little caster originally
 
The car can wander with minor problems like toe out, or a bad idler arm or pitman arm. Then the tire type and construction plays a role. Pavement ruts and crowns can multiply problems.

The lower control arm bushings hold the spring load and the weight of the car and go bad more often than the upper arm bushings. They are harder to see and thus out of mind to most hobbyists. Must get under the car with a light and look for the signs of bad bushings.
 
Chrysler's alignment specs are not very much different from those of other brands, whose suspensions were designed/upgraded in the late 1950s, as they changed from king pins to ball joints.

The "high caster" orientations got public exposure with the 1973 Monte Carlos, at the direction of then-Chevy manager John DeLorean. He patterned it after what Mercedes was doing. High caster for better straight-line performance, which ALSO needed a steering damper on the steering linkage. When I checked the alignment specs on a later MC of that body series, the alignment specs were "normal Chevy", mysteriously. As the steering damper was also gone, too.

Which tends to follow a GM practice of giving a carline an exclusive feature, gaining popularity and advertising, but after three model years, it's got the normal stuff anyway. Another example was the "Precision" steering on the Olds Intrigues compared to Pontiac Grand Prixs (which shared the platform and plant with the Olds products).

Not to rain on anybody's parade, but to me, ALL suspension alignment specs can boil down to a few things. Get the caster to what the suspension design will tolerate (up to +2 degrees, many times), camber at zero, and (especially with radial tires) toe-in at the min spec (GM even went down to fractions of degrees in the 1980s so the then-new all-season tires segmented-tread tires would wear evenly). Caster can be used to "lead" the car to the top of the crown on a crowned roadway, rather than having to "steer" it there . . . which gets to the "cross-car" spec.

The tedious part of front end alignment comes when you have to get the caster and camber "in spec" at the same time. Finding the "best mix" of what is important. Camber and toe-in for best tire wear, with caster being a bit secondary to those other things.

No doubt, the newer-design Borgeson steering gear (which I believe is made from an OEM Jeep applications!) is "tighter" than the old Chrysler gearbox. I suspect that Firm Feel and similar might have learned some tricks to give the old Chrysler box some "new tricks".

End result, to me, better on-road steering performance is more about having a "tight" steering linkage system, good lower ball joints, tight-but-free bushings, and a steering gear that has the "input bushing/bearing" adjustment to min spec, than how much caster is in the front end. When ALL of these things are changed at once, hard to pin down where the real improvements were made, OR they all contributed a little bit to get the final improvements.

Caster affects steering effort to turn the vehicle and how well it re-centers after a turn, more than anything else. If the steering wants to stay centered, that can be perceived to be good.

To me, the Chrysler geometry is better than anybody elses' back then. I know the "bump steer" people will not agree with that. Especially how "rear steer" is better than "front steer" for having more accurate Ackerman angles. BTAIM

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
That particular gauge and turn plates is what our local Chrysler dealer had. Clips onto the end of the spindle, so it is as accurate as it can be.

ONLY thing is that it worked just fine for normal wheel cover or hub cap cars. NOT so well for Magnum 500 wheeled cars. They usually got the spare out and installed it on each front wheel. For the Class II 16-alor W23s, they'd have to unbolt the center cap.

CBODY67
And it don't like FWD either.
@Big_John - I am not sure if it was in an accident previously but it's totally possible. The hood is the only thing on the car that has obviously been replaced as it is green on the underside, not the original gold color.

@Boydsdodge - curious why you wanted the extra Caster and if you would recommend it to others with a Cbody.

@Just Carbs - I wasn't planning on doing the alignment myself but as you pointed out, if it is a trial and error type thing it might be the better option. I'm just not sure if I have the patience for it.

Before I ripped it apart she did wander slightly but that could also have been due to the rotten rubber bits I'm replacing.

Alignment changes go fairly quick after you gather up the tools and have the right wrenches at hand and do it a couple of times.
A lot faster and cleaner than changing a set of V/8spark plugs.
 
The gauge would need to screw onto the exposed threads of the end of the drive axle, at least. Too much trouble . . .
 
The gauge would need to screw onto the exposed threads of the end of the drive axle, at least. Too much trouble . . .
Most of my FWD cars are gone now. All that's left is a 2004 Beetle. I'll run it till the trans goes. They have known to fail transmissions.
 
Small victory, I have the front suspension rebuilt and everything reassembled except for the steering linkage sitting on the bench ready to reinstall. I did find a bent strut rod and tie rod sleeve on the passenger side so it may be the car was in an accident at some point. Luckily everything came apart and went together easily, likely due to the engine oil covering everything. Sad how engine oil destroys rubber but keeps the metal bits in tip top shape!

I won't know for some time how much of a difference it makes since the car isn't operational at the moment. But I am excited this job is done and can't wait to get her back on the road. Hopefully before 2026!

I ordered Mevotech from RockAuto for everything except the lower control arm pin bushings, those came from Kanter. And the UCA bushings were Moog, shipped in a Mevotech box. Time will tell how well things hold up.

Oh, and the Lower Ball Joints were old stock Moog ordered on E-Bay. Not cheap but they seem to be of great quality.
 
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