Timmayy
Member
Ok, another future project. I will end up doing it to my other Mopars as well.
Underhood Ammeter Bypass
- Thread starter cbarge
- Start date
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
That you should! There's still an ammeter in my '83 D150.
Blackrifle
New Member
Such a simple mod, I need to get this done on my 66 Newport soon.
Timmayy
Member
What did you all do to connect the ammeter wires together? I would think that just using a nut and bolt on the loop terminals and electrical tape is a little bit of a hack. The tape would eventually come undone.
This thread focuses a mod under the hood where the ammeter and its conections in the dash are left alone.
Yes I had seen in the past ammeter connections bolted together and taped up.
Typically I dive into the dash when its too late after a nuclear meltdown.
If one wants to bypass the gauge completely, just bolt both wires to one stud of the gauge.
Doing this eliminates the gauge, and makes the connection at a sturdy protected stud terminal.
Doing this eliminates the gauge, and makes the connection at a sturdy protected stud terminal.
3175375
Senior Member
I believe that what you have suggested doesn’t scratch the itch of getting current out of the feed through at the bulkhead connectors.
Agreed - sorry if I wasn't clear - the assumption I made is that this step is in addition to correcting issue that exists at the bulkhead, which is that the hot feed to the ammeter (red wire), which connects to the black wire side of the gauge comes through the firewall in a way that bypasses the bulkhead, as recommended in this whole thread. As well, it was assumed that the black wire that goes to the main power distribution splice (factory wire weld) under the dash, and subsequently goes back out to the alternator (with the attendent fusible link to protect things), passes through the firewall safely, bypassing the bulkhead as recommended.
What I did was run new 10 AWG wires, unbroken, to and from through the speedo cable grommet, and added a terminal block on the inner fender, to which I added a mini-circuit with a new fusible link on bith the red AND black wires, to add and enhance the level of protection as was there originally.
What I did was run new 10 AWG wires, unbroken, to and from through the speedo cable grommet, and added a terminal block on the inner fender, to which I added a mini-circuit with a new fusible link on bith the red AND black wires, to add and enhance the level of protection as was there originally.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
This is close to my approach. I run one #8 AWG feed in from the starter relay to both ammeter leads, using a brass #10-32 screw w lock washer and flats to insure secure contact. The #8 also being lugged distributes current to the old "battery" and "alt" circuits at the same voltage, with all the other feeds cut. I run the charging lead straight from the alternator stud to the battery, where it makes one "super-node" with the starter relay, and an extra fuse box, which protects the headlight relays, the recently complete stereo amp and player, the pusher fan and my auxiliary charging socket in the passenger compartment. The bus for these is protected by a #12 AWG fusible link, as is the #8 lead going through the firewall from the starter relay. Thus, the alternator goes to exactly ONE node, the + battery post, which then feeds all other circuiits via two fusible links, with one more protecting the alternator feed.
The old #14 bulkhead feed is disconnected on both sides of the firewall. The new splice to the two lugged leads formerly on the ammeter gets taped over with 3M rubber tape, which then gets wrapped in 3M Super 33 vinyl tape, exactly as the high voltage airport runway joints I taped at Ft. Worth Mecham Field decades ago. The new #8 lugs are crimped, soldered, and shrink wrapped for electrical and mechanical security. This approach also allows one to leave the famous brazed connection in place in it's original configuration. I've left the absurd little #12 charge lead in the old bundle on top of the intake on the passenger side, though I folded it back, taped it down onto the bundle, and leave the battery feed to the ammeter lead, which makes a junction with that charging cable under the dash. Another lead comes off that joint to the "E" circuit on the old fuse block, feeding all the battery circuits there. HOW Mopar rationalized calling those battery circuits is lost in old martinis and cigars, long ago guzzled and burned to butts.
It all works well enough though, and is nicely balanced too.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Use some shrink wrap instead. You should be able to slide some onto one of the leads, nut them together, then slide the wrap over the joint, and there smoke it, so to speak. DO get GOOD shrink wrap though. Not all of those come of equal quality material.
