Underhood heat

SuperDave

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Commando1...don't bother...he'll just get defensive, claim you're a "stock numbers matching guy" and tell you to "bite me" like above.
Brags about the expensive stainless rockers, then demands a cheap solution to his heat issues and he's not even running a thermostat. I'm having flashbacks to the downfall of the C Body Drydock.
I have no time for that crap.

Not at all, I'm open to suggestions. The "Expensive" rockers weren't, same cost as the aluminum ones. I went with them for a) being able to correct/compensate for the shaved heads/block decking (also saves shipping time & expense of custom push rods) and b) reduced friction and c) cost. Powermaster products are lower tier of performance, entry level if you will. I read reviews before buying, and their aluminum roller rockers reputedly don't live long. Factor in the weight and a rev limiter is needed to prevent valve float.

The lack of a thermostat was to see if that was truly the issue. It wasn't, and I haven't gotten around to reinstall it yet.

Yeah a low cost solution looks desirable, money wise. I don't have deep pockets, but I can save up and buy quality when and if it's merited. I could have splurged and got the better coated TTI headers, but at the time I was in a time crunch, I had to get the car rolling and legal to drag it with me to Texas, and it would have meant neglecting other more important issues like brakes, suspension, u joints, steering, etc. Cheap Chinese headers got it running so I could focus on other issues. They aren't a permanent solution. They're bound to rust out, if the motor mounts don't sag or break and the headers grind and puncture first.

It's priorities. Get it running. Make it safe. Make it last. Make it fast. And look good the whole time too. It runs good and it stops and handles good. Aside from the upholstery, it looks good too, on the outside anyway. Now I'm working on longevity. Address the little things I let slide from the beginning. Like nagging heat issues. Front end alignment and tires (done). Better exhaust hangers. Replacing all the 'Edison' filiment bulbs with LEDs. Stuff like that. Building a hot rod on a budget is a time consuming task, but if done properly, there's no reason why you can't enjoy it along the way.

Commando1 offered good advice. Back to basics is sound. Because sometimes it's the little details that trip us up. Do the fans work? Is the block or radiator clogged? Is the thermostat sticking? Is air going around the radiator instead of thru it? Stock or modified, they all play by the same laws of physics.

Chill out Mr. C, try to keep an open mind. Try not to be negative. You'll enjoy life more that way. There's more than one way of looking at things and sometimes more than one solution to fix them. Sometimes the only thing we have complete control of is how we respond to stuff. And that can make you or break you. Either way, it shows what you're made of.

Go forth and be awesome my friend. I welcome any and all input. Even yours. You may have experience or a perspective I haven't considered yet. I know a lot, but I don't know everything. But I am willing to learn.
 
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rapidtrans

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On my way to Carlisle when this was snapped.
1FD2D7E9-9559-45FF-B5B1-AC11E249E742.jpeg

Today’s cars run a lot hotter without melting anything under the hood.
 

SuperDave

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CBody67 here's pics of my spark plug wire looms I mentioned above:
IMG_20210808_111931967.jpg

IMG_20210808_111957573.jpg


The puke tank & fans:
IMG_20210808_112012269.jpg


The torn felt paper between the front clip to the radiator support:
IMG_20210808_112034030_HDR.jpg


IMG_20210808_112040591.jpg


And the beast it's mounted in:
IMG_20210808_112215257_HDR.jpg


IMG_20210808_112237194_HDR.jpg


The radiator measures 28 1/2" wide, 2 3/4" deep and 22" tall.

And if I'm allowed to make a retraction to a previous post, my 1st gear is 2.77:1 (not the 1.77 I said it was) a tad deeper than the stock 1.54. Please forgive my thick fingers, I mistyped. This allowed me to approximate a 1st gear final drive ratio akin to stock 1st & a 4.11 axle on launch. It won't beat a hellcat at the lights, but at least I won't be embarrassed by a Hyundai either.
 

SuperDave

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What rear tire sizes and tread widths?

Cooper Cobra GT 255/60/15's. Mounted on American Racing Magnum 500 aluminum repops with a 1" spacer on the hub (all 4 corners). Fills in the wheel tubs nicely and the additional track width helps handling and stability.
 

TxDon

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Lot of good suggestions here, I had a similar problem with a built 440 in a B-body and the following fixed it:
  • Put the 180 thermostat back.
  • add a 16 psi VENTED radiator cap plus a larger "puke tank", this will create a coolant recovery system like a newer car, allow you to fill the radiator to the top, and stop boilover.
  • check timing and carb jetting as mentioned above.
  • MOST IMPORTANT - be sure your lower radiator hose has the spring inside to keep it from collapsing! This was my biggest problem.
 

SuperDave

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Hose
MOST IMPORTANT - be sure your lower radiator hose has the spring inside to keep it from collapsing! This was my biggest problem.

Hose is new, all of them are really. Well, within the last year anyway. And yes, I made sure the bottom came with the anti-collapsing spring.
 

livininharrow

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once you get your overheating issues figured out i would concentrate on aligning your belt pulleys a little better for prolonged belt life.
 

1970cat

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just a few random thoughts here.
as said above, running a thermostat can slow the flow of coolant giving the radiator more time to do it's job.

check your plugs to see if you are running rich or lean.

replace the balancer. you'll never get close on timing with a constantly moving reference point.

don't use the asphalt material. it will get hot and drip tar all over.

are you sure your fans aren't running backwards? happened to a friend.

before cutting things, try putting some wooden wedges between the rear of the hood hinges and the hood. see if it helps let some of the hot air out.
 

bnz84

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A couple things that have been discussed but I wanted to confirm helped me with my non-stock 440 with headers. After consulting with a few guys at shows I tried a 160 stat. Now the engine runs 175-180 and maybe 190 on 95 deg days. My engine was running warm because the front was leaky and air was going around the radiator. I did replace the bumper to radiator yoke with some sturdy plastic I got from a useless black fertilizer spreader. Same as a plastic bed liner. People are sometimes giving them away so you would have as much as you ever need. I also replaced the top yoke to hood seal with some black 1" layered weather stripping. For me with a black hood you never see it and I can tell its sealing well by compression lines. Not expensive either. I too have consider a modest chin spoiler but will try for later on. But 69 Camaro repos are surprisingly cheap. Less noticeable would some strip of plastic as you said with a flexible trim for bumps like this garage door trim maybe. Also for the wires covers melting I have used these fiberglass covers on wires and fuel lines and it has helped. No melting or distortion. And lastly for things like protecting your power steering box I've had luck with this stick on heat shield. None of this will correct the bigger issues but helps regardless.
 

70bigblockdodge

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You're wasting your breath. He hasn't a clue on how to troubleshoot a lean cruise a/f ratio nor will he ask how.
That's my bet and I'm sticking to it.
I had this condition in my Challenger for years blamed everything else till everything else was eventually changed.
My Charger did not get hot, but since Dave at Woodruff's rebuilt and tuned my TQ I have trouble keeping 160° in it except for the hottest days. If I make the heat work I don't know if it will maintain 160° I need to put a hotter thermostat in.
 

SuperDave

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You're wasting your breath. He hasn't a clue on how to troubleshoot a lean cruise a/f ratio nor will he ask how.


Okay, I'm game. Lay it on me Commando1. Please demonstrate your knowledge base and experience. You may know more than I do.

Last time I did a plug chop yielded light brown plugs. Somewhere between tan and milk chocolate colored. This was a year ago with a fresh motor and maybe 20 miles on it. We called it good. Mind you, from home to the shop was 5 miles round trip. Barely got warm.

Rejet kit has 3 pairs of jets: 95, 98, & 101. Factory jetting for the 600 CFM Eddy 1406 is 98.

So here's the battle plan: Replace the 16 PSI rad cap. Rejet to 101, then play with the needles and springs if necessary. Replace the torn paper from the grill shell header to the rad supports with roofing paper (the underlay, not shingle paper, I have half a roll left over). Fab up an air dam with plastic landscaping border, angle iron to mount it & screws, trim to fit for 2" ground clearance. Source and replace the missing "Yoke" seal. The next Cars & Coffee is the 21st, 2 Saturday's & 22 miles away. If it still gets hot, I'll try recurving the distributor (pull the small spring 1st, retard the initial timing to compensate) if it still needs more, then I'll return the small spring and pull the big one out. IF & WHEN I can take it out on a long drive and keep it under 200 by 20 miles, only then will I reinstall the thermostat.

Unless Commando1 has more to add. Am I missing anything you would try?
 

SuperDave

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You're wasting your breath. He hasn't a clue on how to troubleshoot a lean cruise a/f ratio nor will he ask how.

I do have a clue. Several actually. But for the benefit of those reading along with similar issues themselves and maybe unwilling to ask (or the desire to show their ignorance out of fear of trolls like you), please detail for the rest of us the step by step instructions of how to troubleshoot, diagnose and correct overheating issues.
 

413

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Just put a holley on it, it will be plenty rich then! LOL

you have a 1406 eddy, it’s lean.
 

LocuMob

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Replace the torn paper from the grill shell header to the rad supports with roofing paper (the underlay, not shingle paper, I have half a roll left over). Fab up an air dam with plastic landscaping border, angle iron to mount it & screws, trim to fit for 2" ground clearance. Source and replace the missing "Yoke" seal.
Everything but the last sentence screams NO! Your car should be able to get to a cooler temp without using leftover bits from your house work. You said you'll spend money when needed, I'd be buying the proper replacement items to help seal the radiator. Roofing paper? Why not go buy some sheet plastic, or a small 1/4" thick sheet of plastic?

Before you go to Home Depot for your car supplies, why not try out @70bigblockdodge's idea and verify the carb isn't lean? Only takes a couple of minutes and a screwdriver. If that's the problem, you're done. If not, what's ten minutes of your time to cross one more thing off your list.
 

70bigblockdodge

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Just put a holley on it, it will be plenty rich then! LOL

you have a 1406 eddy, it’s lean.
LOL, thanks.
My lean was with a Holley, you are right though a Eddy is too lean out of the box.
The no thermostat is no good. A thermostat is to maintain a minimum temp not control your temp.
200° is not overheating especially on a summer day.
Lean is easy enough to check with a choked carburetor. Just wire the choke or adjust the stove to have it just cracked open enough that it is not stalling the car at idle then go drive a few miles. If it stays cooler you know you are lean.
 

CBODY67

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Seems like the seals that need to be made should be made out of masticated rubber, same stuff the upper control arm water shields are out of. I somewhat doubt that HD has that in stock or anything that can really tolerate automotive underhood heat (even at normal levels).

Y'all have fun!
CBODY67
 
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