Upgrading To Front Disc Brakes

crazyboutwagons

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I have been toying with the idea of doing a front disk brake conversion on the 68 wagon for a while now. I have read a lot of the posts on this board and really haven't decided which way to go.i want a system that is complete easy to install and down the road serviceability if I need parts something that is easily available and wont break the bank.i am looking at the systems from Master Power Brakes and SSBC.Looking for some guidance.
 
Find a set of 69-73 disc spindles.

73 is the holy grail because the one year only spindle uses the cheaper unicast rotors. 69-72 use a 2 piece rotor that cost more money. The rest of the components are the same from 69 on and can be purchased anywhere. You will also need a dual diaphragm disc brake specific booster and master cylinder. You can either use the combination valve from the donor vehicle or use a manual proportioning valve from Wilwood or others.

The best part of this swap is it is engineered for this car at this weight class.

Most of the store bought solutions are IMHO based on the cheapest GM components available that were for cars that weighed 1000 lbs less.

If you Google SSBC you will get complaints ranging from no better than the drums they replaced to downright dangerous when installed on a C-body, not because the components are faulty but just not matched to the application.

Kevin
 
I like the scarebird setup myself. I haven't tried it yet... but for the bolt on systems out there I think it has the most going for it next to a factory setup.
 
Personally my suggestion would be to get in touch with Murray Park, Tell him what you've got and what you want to do and give him your VISA. Then watch for the UPS truck. Hey, From the shorez of the Monongahela you're close enough you could even go pick up the partz in Tiffin, OHOHO. Save, save, save..... Oh, and their will be core charges for the caliperz when you swap 'um for new or re-manz too, Jer
 
Personally my suggestion would be to get in touch with Murray Park, Tell him what you've got and what you want to do and give him your VISA. Then watch for the UPS truck. Hey, From the shorez of the Monongahela you're close enough you could even go pick up the partz in Tiffin, OHOHO. Save, save, save..... Oh, and their will be core charges for the caliperz when you swap 'um for new or re-manz too, Jer

You must have missed the part about "breaking the bank" Jer.
 
I never thought Murray waz way out of line on hiz pricing Pal. I pulled a used up 323 sure grip out of the Batwagon and bought out rite a 276 open from him ah couple yearz ago for $150. Drove down and picket it up out of the bed his pickup at hiz day job. Stuffed it in the pumpkin the following day and down the road I went. Getz tah be one ah them thingz that if you wanna play you gotta pay I guess. Camels ain't 3 packs fer ah buck or 5 loffs of bread fer ah buck anymore either. And $29.95 any car any color from Earl Schibb iz long gone history too, lol
 
call ralph @ ECI - tell them we sent ya - 10% off. i love mine. it was easy to do to, im no mechanic, and i did the work in the driveway with basic garden tools.
 
Thanks for the info.will give ECI a call first.wife wants brand new parts afraid something old will break or something so I got to humor her.
 
I converted my car to disks using parts I purchased on eBay. They were supposed to be form '73, turned out to be form '71. The price for the rotors alone went form $90 to $485. I would also learn that the calipers, hoses, pads, and even dust caps for '73s will not fit. I was able to complete the job and they work well. Even with the extra money I spent it was still less than buying a kit. I found a correct proportioning valve off a '70 New Yorker in a junkyard. I went new on the MC, wheel cylinders, calipers and rotors. What I got from the eBay stuff were was the hardware, dustplates, spindles, etc.

IMG_2751.jpg

IMG_2751.jpg
 
I just did this swap on my 1966 300, use the 1973 spindles, Murray Park has them, then everything else new from Rock auto. use the 1967 disc brake booster and master only. 1969 or newer will not work, your shift linkage will hit the booster. Inline tube has all the lines, use 1967 also.
 
traintech: if I could ask what did it cost you for your conversion and how much work did you have to do to the parts you got from Murray Park.
 
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