Well there's your problem!

Brad Nelson

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Location
Gig Harbor, WA
As we all know some projects take longer to start than others. Today I finally got serious about taking my '66 Newport apart. Here's what a cooling system looks like after sitting since 1981.
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Wow! You got yourself an Alien eco system in there!!
 
There was actually about a quart of water at the bottom of the radiator/bottom hose. Smelled a little of glycol but looked more like water.
Also got enough out of the way to see if the crank will turn.
That's a negative, Houston.
 
Wow! I can only imagine what the water passages in the block and heads look like!
 
Since the old 383 is getting replaced with a 5.7 Hemi, it will be a while before I open that engine up.
But I'll post pictures when I do! :D
 
Since I cannot ask the original owner what he was doing to the poor thing at the time he parked it, chances are even though he was a mechanic he probably didn't always take as good care of his stuff as he should have.
 
Been busy reading about this product. I guess my first real question, after "Does it work?" is "How do I get all the water/antifreeze mix out of my 440?". I don't remember seeing a block drain cock or plug, so do I need to pull a freeze plug (which I'd rather not do) or do I use compressed air to blow it out?
 
Been busy reading about this product. I guess my first real question, after "Does it work?
Yes.
Better than $1/ gal. distilled water.
No. Absolutely not. Read the scientific papers, not the fanboi reviews.

Oops, here we go....
 
Yes.
Better than $1/ gal. distilled water.
No. Absolutely not. Read the scientific papers, not the fanboi reviews.

Oops, here we go....
What got my attention is the 375F boiling point, could solve my over heating cheaper than a new rad, shroud, and water pump. Just a thought.
 
Been busy reading about this product. I guess my first real question, after "Does it work?" is "How do I get all the water/antifreeze mix out of my 440?". I don't remember seeing a block drain cock or plug, so do I need to pull a freeze plug (which I'd rather not do) or do I use compressed air to blow it out?
Properly? Knock out as many plugs as you can. A couple threads recently have shown all the crap that builds up in the block,and eats the plugs from the inside.

@1970FuryConv dropped the transmission and flushed it out before replacing frost plugs.

@73 T&C flushed his in the car hoping to not have to disassemble anything.
 
What got my attention is the 375F boiling point, could solve my over heating cheaper than a new rad, shroud, and water pump. Just a thought.
Heres my thinking. Feel free to differ.
The car was designed, did, and still should run at 190-195°.
It was also designed to idle all day in 100° weather. A gazzilion cops would agree they could. That's a fact.

Now, if you can't make your car run to the stock standard. Wetterwater or WhateverTF you call it is a bandaid to cover up something wrong. No miracle tiger piss for me. Make it correct in the first place. It may cost a ton of money to do it right. And that's where people look for bandaids.
 
Very true. My car suffered major heat abuse sitting in Toronto traffic and never once overheated in nearly 95,000 miles. It had a factory 22" rad, stock pump, stock thermostat, stock 7 blade steel fan and no shroud.
For some reason, after the rebuild it hates even a short stop light. I've half a mind to park it and buy a Lexus HT convertible. :BangHead:
 
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