What did you do to your C-body today....

Pulled my first transmission today!

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Luckily I had my dad around to help me because it would've been neigh impossible to do alone. Those torsion bars might give a nice ride but damn those make it hard to remove the trans. Had to leave the crossmember in place and angle it down at the front. That's the correct way according to my FSM but it was incredibly tight. But it's out! Now to decide if I try a ring gear replacement or get a new torque converter.

Putting it back will be fun... :rolleyes:
Why did you have to pull the trans? Usually those 727‘s are bulletproof unless abused.
 
Continued tinkering over the weekend, wanted to change the U joints due to a small driveline vibration. So while the driveshaft was out, I had it blasted in powder coated. Installed new joints, the car is nice and smooth now.
I know I know!! “Made in China”.. We don’t make anything in this country anymore, damn shame.
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Well, after a mishap last weekend I finally got the high pressure hose for the power steering. It took less time to change the hose than to clean the driveway!

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Starter ate my ring gear so torque converter had to come out, 727 itself is still fine
Typically the ring gear is welded to the convertor, replacement requires exact precision best left to the professionals. It's be cheaper, faster & easier to just outright replace the entire convertor. If power, speed and performance are important to you, might I suggest getting a new convertor with a higher-than-stock stall speed? Your engine will rev a little higher than before, allowing it to develop more torque and accelerate faster. C-bodies are big, heavy cars and can use all the help they can to get rolling from a dead stop. Now this can lead to higher temperatures, so a trans cooler and/or a deeper oil pan (with cooling fins) can help maintain and assure longevity. (I did both, plus a magnetic drain plug too) For street driving, I wouldn't go any higher than 400 over stock or it'll slip a lot at highway cruising speeds and get crappy gas milage.

Have you replaced the starter yet? Was it just wear and tear of being old, or was a bolt missing or loose leading to misalignment of the starter?
 
Took my Chrysler out yesterday to a local car show. It was 2 towns over so it was a real test of the mods I had made to address overheating issues I suffered the last time I went there. With a jetting change and a DIY air dam installed under the chin, the temps never peaked over 190°, so I call that fixed.
 
Typically the ring gear is welded to the convertor, replacement requires exact precision best left to the professionals. It's be cheaper, faster & easier to just outright replace the entire convertor. If power, speed and performance are important to you, might I suggest getting a new convertor with a higher-than-stock stall speed? Your engine will rev a little higher than before, allowing it to develop more torque and accelerate faster. C-bodies are big, heavy cars and can use all the help they can to get rolling from a dead stop. Now this can lead to higher temperatures, so a trans cooler and/or a deeper oil pan (with cooling fins) can help maintain and assure longevity. (I did both, plus a magnetic drain plug too) For street driving, I wouldn't go any higher than 400 over stock or it'll slip a lot at highway cruising speeds and get crappy gas milage.

Have you replaced the starter yet? Was it just wear and tear of being old, or was a bolt missing or loose leading to misalignment of the starter?
Haven't decided yet if I replace ring gear or get a new torque converter. Cause was misalignment from a loose bolt, starter is still fine
 
I added 1/4" phenolic spacers to my 3 carbs yesterday hoping to improve my fuel percolation/boiling issues after shut down. I definitely think my issues are made worse because of the big air cleaner. The center one I fab'd up to cover the center and rear bowls as well. Front carb bowl is not directly over anything so I left it as is. Center carb is the most important one. I would have gone to 1/2" but not enough hood clearance. I have some more work to do before I take it out to test.

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I added 1/4" phenolic spacers to my 3 carbs yesterday hoping to improve my fuel percolation/boiling issues after shut down. I definitely think my issues are made worse because of the big air cleaner. The center one I fab'd up to cover the center and rear bowls as well. Front carb bowl is not directly over anything so I left it as is. Center carb is the most important one. I would have gone to 1/2" but not enough hood clearance. I have some more work to do before I take it out to test.

Wow, that's cool! Did you make those yourself, or is that an off-the-shelf product you bought? If you did that, what kind of material is it?

If for some reason it still after-boils, maybe cover the bottom of the phenolic spacer with foil tape like what's used in ventilation ducts. Just a thought. Wouldn't add but a hundredth of an inch to it and might be enough to deflect the heat that your fuel won't boil out & evaporate on shut down.
 
Not as many choices with 2 barrels and it was all I could do to resist the $8 heat shield gasket but in the end I got a 3 2barrel kit with longer studs and gaskets. But since I like the idea of shielding the bowls I got a sheet of phenolic resin to make my version of the most important center carb. I didn't like the brown look of my bigger spacer so gave it a spray of cast aluminum. Looks good now. Not really noticeable. I had to make another 1/4 spacer for the choke coil. That was wood and metal sandwiched to get the 1/4". I have put a layer of reflective heat shield on the underside of the big air cleaner. But I still have some tuning to do. I figured the phenolic spacers I would do anyway so jumped on that while I was under the hood.
 
Took Jumbo for a good long test drive. The new pertronics set up works pretty good I got the flamethrower coil as a complete package for my birthday.

I have to back it off just a bit as the idle is a bit high and every now and again it’ll Pfft pfft pfft thru the carb. Only on very light throttle so I know it’s gonna work out great.

The higher idle actually helped with the usual discharge at the stop lights. I cruised it down the Sunset Strip and over to Quentin Tarantino’s movie house to see Repo Man on film with my brothers. That is one crazy movie and kinda cool that he screens all these old gems. Probably an 80 mile or so round trip thru light city traffic and some freeway thrown in. The verdict I waited too long to install one of these LoL!!!

Enjoy some crappy nighttime pics of Hollywood. QT’s movie house is called the New Beverly Cinema.

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New shoes .. 245/60-15x8. 4.5 bksp, in front, 295/50 -15x10. 5.5 bksp, out back.

Rear leafs moved inbound about an inch to accommodate a 12 inch wide rear tires (otherwise you cant get this setup out back in a slabbie without some skillful modification to avoid interference)

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Yes, it stayed in the family too. Got it last year.

1971 Plymouth Sport Fury Gt

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It went out to get its vinyl top replaced last week.

I will add it to my forum "garage" here when I am finished touching up a few things. All tributes to the builder -- @Wollfen (hope all is well brother)

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Almost ready to put her back together!
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Just one more weekend working with my dad and should be back on the road. Neither of us ever really worked on cars before this one but she's real easy to work on. Good times.
 
Yesterday I got to drive in the Pioneer Days Festival parade in Pittsburg Tx, then show it off at the car show afterwards. Got lots of applause and admiration. The folks really got excited when I'd rev the motor and get the exhaust to cackle and pop, occasionally eliciting puffs of flame to shoot from the side pipes.

Mine was the only C-body in attendance. There was a couple other Mopars there, a black 69 Road Runner and a yellow 34 Dodge pickup with a high rise dual quad equipped Firepower 392 Hemi. It was cool having so many people there check out my ride, ask questions or just plain drool over it.
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Pulling it was tough but putting it back sure wasn't a picknick either but it's in!

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Fuel tank is also back on the car. Haven't started her yet as I still have some odds and ends to do but starter motor spun it over nicely so ring gear replacement is a succes in my book! Part throttle downshift kit and extra valve body should be here any day now and once that's one she's back on the road. :)
 
Ok for all you Formal Driveway Warriors. My 77’s fuel gauge only read 1/2 when full. Decided to yank the tank and replace the sending unit. As you’ll see! It needed to be done even if the gauge was reading as it should. The filter was gone / desolved. No sign of it in the tank. Tanks is remarkably clean for having never been removed.
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Outside of the tank was in “As expected” condition.. NO Broadcast sheet as I had hoped since there wasn’t one IN the car when I pulled the seats, carpet early. Oh well! Maybe under headliner when I have that done. Also replaced the filler neck grommet. As you can see it needed it.
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Couple more pics.. the filler neck needed to be cleaned, Took a piece of scotch bright and just cleaned off the crud, ready to reinstall.
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and a few under shots in case you guys wondered what your Formal looks like without a tank in it.
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Got a repop glove box liner for my ‘68 300. The old one had a gaping hole in the bottom.

out with the old:
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In with the new:

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