What I take manifold should I use?

[Abrown1930]

Hey guys I have a 1963 Chrysler 300, 383 4-speed. Ok so I want to purchase a new edelbrock performer rpm intake manifold. So I have a 383 block with 440 heads they are casting # 346. The intake manifold is casting # 3830848 dated march 1976 it’s a factory 4 barrel manifold. So my question is do I buy a manifold for a 383 or a 440??

 

[CBODY67]

Are you SURE the Performer RPM intake is SHORT enough to go under that hood, with the air cleaner installed, and the hood shut? As the RPM variant is taller than the normal Performer.

Just a thought,
CBODY67

 

[413]

It will fit with the right air cleaner. It is a B block so use a 383 intake. Always go by the block.

the stock air cleaner was very tall.

 

[LocuMob]

Are you SURE the Performer RPM intake is SHORT enough to go under that hood, with the air cleaner installed, and the hood shut? As the RPM variant is taller than the normal Performer.

Just a thought,
CBODY67

Like @413 said, with the right air cleaner it will fit. The lower intake height with the B block helps, too.

 

[Loadrunner]

Need to see the car with detailed shots of engine, shifter, etc ;]

And yes, that was a good question, answered, but I can see why it would be confusing until you get to know big block Chrysler engines well, and they are worth it. Deep set crank, external oil pump, it's light years ahead of the competition by way of being more arcane. Deep set cranks are a thing from the past, seen in old tractor engines. Ford FE blocks had it too, wheareas Chevy hung all their mains below the pan line, which is just plainly weaker.

Also the big block can sit flat on a table with mains installed, a game changer in the shop.

In my opinion the 383 is the finest engine Chrysler ever made, fantastic bore to stroke ratio, incredible blend of rpm and low down grunt.


From the internet;




"The 383 carries a bore and stroke of 4.25-inch x 3.375-inch, while the 396 Rat had an embarrassingly undersized bore of 4.094-inch, and a 3.766-inch stroke-as long an arm as a 440.

What is the bore and stroke on a Chrysler 440?


A stock 440 combines a sizeable 4.320-inch bore with a tiny 3.75-inch stroke to produce 440 cubes"

 

[CBODY67]

The reason for the Ford Y-block, which replaced the Flathead V-8, was so that the transmission could have a better mounting point, for better clutch life and operation. No braces from the block to the lower trans bellhousing area, for the lower bolts.

Although the lower block oil pan rail also allowed for "cross-bolting" the main webs for greater main structure strength AND ultimate horsepower.

As to "ratios" the Chrysler B 383 has very similar bore/stroke and rod length/stroke ratios to the beloved "free-revving" Chevy 302. PLUS the Chevy CanAm 430 V-8, which has no relation to the Chevy 427, fwiw.

I read in an old Chrysler enthusiast magazine article on Chrylser's engine designs, in order to not let the piston side-loading be too great, they considered a "swing" of the connecting rod on the piston wrist pin of 15 degrees to be the limit. Rod ratio from another perspective.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Loadrunner]

Yeah, the Chevy 302, that could rev like a mother. I hopped in this guy's '68 ish DZ302 Camaro 4sp - one night ages ago - and he's doing like 10,000 RPM launches, or something insanely close to that. I hear some valve float, definite valve float but at RPM like that, holy fk... It had the same kind of tirefrying power that a 383 does, smoke rolls from the wheelwells before the car starts moving.

 

[Toolmanmike]

The old Edelbrock DP4B is a good one. Edelbrock Performer is a good one as well. Both are close to stock height and work with mild performance builds. A buddy used a CH4B (for 440) on his mild street 440 build and dynoed at just short of 500 horse and as much torque so they do work.

 

[Loadrunner]

Good old DP4B, DP stands for Dual Plane, which keeps air velocity high at lower RPM, super intakes.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Hey guys I have a 1963 Chrysler 300, 383 4-speed. Ok so I want to purchase a new edelbrock performer rpm intake manifold. So I have a 383 block with 440 heads they are casting # 346. The intake manifold is casting # 3830848 dated march 1976 it’s a factory 4 barrel manifold. So my question is do I buy a manifold for a 383 or a 440??

View attachment 558775

View attachment 558776

Hi @Abrown1930
Buy the 383 manifold. Buy the right manifold for the engine size: 383. 346 heads and other street engine Chrysler factory heads are the same on 383 and 440. 383 has a more narrow width across the block between the heads. 440 intake will be too wide for your 383 because a 440 intake is too wide across the block between the heads and will not fit on top of your 303 block. hope this helps. Ben

 

[Toolmanmike]

B and RB engines can use the ame heads. The intakes and the blocks need to match but the heads can interchange. Like all heads, there are differences in port size, chamber size, valve size and springs of course but if you have a 383 you use a 383 intake regardless what heads you are using. If you are bothered about port mismatch, that can be addressed although for a mild street engine it isn't much of an issue.

 

[Turboomni]

taken from this page https://www.edelbrock.com/performer-rpm-intake-manifold-71933.htmlm

quote: Manifold height: A-4.90", B-5.80"; Carb pad height: 5.35". Manifold is 1.7" taller than stock: quote
Do you want to use the stock air cleaner? You didn't say. New build with new engine mounts? That will raise the engine a tad also. Been down this road.

 

[Turboomni]

The Edelbrock Performer is lower in height than the Performer RPM just to be clear but the winner in performance is the RPM. Depends on what you want/ need.
Main reason for this post though is to welcome you to the Forum!

 

[fury fan]

Welcome!
A bigger part of the intake question is what do you use the car for, and what has been done to teh engine?
And what carb are you using now on that '76 intake? Looks like you have an adapter on that spread-bore intake.
Aluminum intakes generally don't play well with OEM divorced chokes (which sit in the pocket in the intake).
So it's generally easier to use an electric-choke carb.
And then, depending on the carb and neck size, (4-1/2" of the AFB or 5-1/8" of the AVS and Thermoquad) that drives aircleaner choices.
And 'drop' distance of the aircleaner might become important also.

 

[Loadrunner]

Not a big fan of electric chokes myself, not anywhere as good as the manifold mounted unit.

Dual plane for street, keep intake velocity high at lower RPM to prevent bog. The DP is the best of both worlds unless you're at the drag strip then the single plane manifold is better.

 

[SuperDave]

It's a "B" motor, a short deck big block (383, 400). Regardless of the heads, you need an intake for the block. "RB" blocks (raised block, or tall deck (413, 426 wedge & 440) have a longer bore so they have a taller block, which makes the intake a bit wider so the two intakes won't interchange the way the heads can. Get the intake for the 383.

As far as the air cleaner is concerned, you may have no choice but to use an aftermarket "drop based" air cleaner. They set the air filter element over and around the carb, as opposed to above it. That's what I had to do to fit my built 400 into a 73 Newport and still close the hood. I went with a 1" drop and a 1/4" spacer/riser ring (with a 2" filter) for a total of 3/4" drop - the drop based made contact with the Edelbrock carb and wouldn't seal properly, hence the riser ring. Had I chosen a Holley carb, the riser may not have been needed. But the hood closes without contact, it looks cool and the motor doesn't inhale Texas dust.