What's the best plan for this rust at the rear window?

I am not a fan of POR since all it really does is cover up live rust. How long will the rust stay in suspended animation is the question. I always kill rust where I find it using a converter like Picklex 20 on cars while I use Ospho on the USS Hornet. Once neutralized I then use my epoxy primer on cars and red oxide on the ship. I tried POR on the deck of the ship 18 years ago and had rust show through in 2 years. This past Saturday I covered a 40 sq. ft. deck with a good layer of Ospho. Just saw it at 11:00 am today and all rust is now black specks. Primer this Saturday.
 
I did the underside of my 91 Cummins back in the day with por15 after moving out to Chicago and the salt and brine started killing a very clean truck. It seemed to do the job
 
Just did this in November. Called the local glass shop and they came over, took it out, came back when the metal work was done and put it back in. Front and back glass. $200. Was worth every penny.
Hello Matt did you have any problems finding the front and rear gaskets or did the glass company you used have all that for reinstallation
 
Just did this in November. Called the local glass shop and they came over, took it out, came back when the metal work was done and put it back in. Front and back glass. $200. Was worth every penny.
Sorry just read rear glass doesn't have a gssket
 
Sorry just read rear glass doesn't have a gssket
It's more like a rubber seal that they laid down and then set the glass in. Here are a few photos. Truth be told, this was done at the metal shop and once I picked it up, I noticed that the trim clips were not put in before the glass was re-installed. They were in the trunk...... Needless to say, I'm going to be taking the glass back out once my new vinyl top gets here (I've been waiting for it since May), installing the new top, setting the clips in place and then, for the last time, putting the glass back in.

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Pre-metal work
 
Ok... Before anything else, I used a scraper and knocked off those bubbles. Sure enough, a couple of holes.. I was able to pry the trim up. The goop is dried up pretty good.. I used a screwdriver and the scraper and then wire-wheeled with my Dremel. Shop-vac and then POR15. The trim didn't go back down all the way, probably something to do with the clips. I left it as is (not so bad) for now. It parks in the street but should be fine..
If anyone can please confirm the clips I found (above), I'll order them.
As far as the rust, is alumalead simple and easy to get?... Or is some JB Weld ok?

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Did you use Aluma-Lead? Something else?
How did it go?
 
Did you use Aluma-Lead? Something else?
How did it go?
...I ended up using some JB Weld and smoothing it as best I could with my dremel. Came out ok. The glass guy came out and replaced the front windshield and couldn't remove the rear glass because it had slipped down enough that he either had to risk the trim or the glass itself. He advised me to get a back glass (yikes too expensive) or another trim piece (pita to find).. so he resealed it and managed to get the trim almost all the way flush again...I added some silicone and it's going to have to do for a while...maybe forever but it doesn't look so bad... I'll post a pic soon
 
...I ended up using some JB Weld and smoothing it as best I could with my dremel. Came out ok. The glass guy came out and replaced the front windshield and couldn't remove the rear glass because it had slipped down enough that he either had to risk the trim or the glass itself. He advised me to get a back glass (yikes too expensive) or another trim piece (pita to find).. so he resealed it and managed to get the trim almost all the way flush again...I added some silicone and it's going to have to do for a while...maybe forever but it doesn't look so bad... I'll post a pic soon
I have not heard of JB Weld for body work.
What JB Weld product did you use?
How long is it expected to last?
 
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