Wheel bearing and operating temp?

[Ambush]

Hey guys it's me again...about my '65 Imperial.
I had to install new front end wheel bearings. The pass side actually failed on me and welded itself to the spindle. After a good time cleaning that up, I had to get another hub/drum assembly from Murray park, as my hub was too badly damaged to hold a new bearing and race properly. The replacement i got from MP, though a perfect match to mine, wasn't as worn in the inside of the drum as mine was. Anyway I did notice that when I reassembled everything, installed the new bearings, and locked down the nut etc...that when I tried to spin the drum while torquing, it would not spin freely all the way.
My friend told me that it's not a problem w/ the new bearing, but that the new drum was rubbing against the brake shoe inside of the drum, and that the brakes would have to adjust to this new drum ...which obviously is not as worn down as my original. He said to drive it for short distances and maybe do some reverse braking to allow the self adjusting brakes to "adjust" to the replacement drum. He also said keep a check on the temps of the hub after driving. SO that's where I'm at now.

My question is the temps ...what's a normal range for the hub? I drove about 15 miles, up to speeds of 60. Aftewards I took the temp readings. I was getting readings of 129-135 on the drivers side hub, a little less at the lugs area. But on the pass side that had the damage and the replacement hub/drum assembly, I was getting 152 on the hub and you could feel that it was hotter than the other side. The lugs area measured the same as the lugs area on the drivers side. The Hub part was where it was hotter. IS this okay? Is it too hot for continued use? Should I expect this extra heat until the brake shoe there get adjusted to the drum? How long until that happens? OR is the fit so tight that the brake can't adust enough on it's own and I will have to go in manually and space out the spring and adjust the brakes shoes myself? I do have my original drum and if need be I can press out the good hub on the replacemnt and install it into my drum ... but the murray park drum is the same other than it's not as worn down inside. What to do? Don't want to damage anthing again after all this repair work . Thanks.

 

[65Port]

Is it pulling to one side when braking? Those temps are close to normal but the pass side sounds like it is dragging a little bit. I would manually adjust it.

 

[Just Carbs]

Back the brake shoes completely off the drum and re-adjust the bearing again. If the drum doesn't spin smooth and free all the way around when you spin it, then you got a problem with the bearing/race/hub.
Also have both front drums turned/machined. And replace the front shoes, cylinders and rubber hoses.

 

[CBODY67]

As to the wheel bearing, new or not, it is best to err on the side of bieng a hair loose than too tight, period. There is a procedure to use in the FSM, as i recall, that mentions "seating the bearing" and then backing off that adjustment to get a free-spinning wheel.

ANY time a drum is replaced, the brake shoes need to be adjusted to it. You can buy a drum caliper to measure the inside of the drum with AND also adjust the shoes with. When the shoes are adjusted, then install the drums and adjust the bearings. No need to do all of the "spoon action" the is otherwise needed to adjust the brake shoes. As the caliper measures the inner drum diameter and also measures the shoe adjustment at the same time.

The brakes should be self-adjusting, BUT they only adjust "up" with each reverse stop. Not loosen the adjustment, as your friend suspects. Which makes the INITIAL adjustment important, which is where the caliper comes in handy. After any adjustment, the wheel shouls spin FREELY with NO rubbing sounds.

I have used the Ford-spec wheel bearing grease as it has moly in it, which normal whl bearing greases do not. Valvoline also makes it in synthetic, too.

CBODY67

 

[Ambush]

All good info- thank you all...I suspected I would need to dive back into that wheel. SO I've never messed or adjusted the brakes on something like this, but I never did the bearing job either until now. Is what I need to do with the brake shoes, measuring, and manually adjusting a tough job, special tools needed, etc...

 

[Ambush]

Is it pulling to one side when braking? Those temps are close to normal but the pass side sounds like it is dragging a little bit. I would manually adjust it.

Right now it's only very slightly pulling to one side when braking, but I've not been braking too hard or going too fast. it usually will show a pulling to one side better when going at a decent speed and then braking harder.

 

[CBODY67]

Adjustment procedures are covered in the Fastory Service Manual. Nothing magical, just pay attention to "dragging sounds" and how easy the wheel turns. The brake shoe/drum calipers I mentioned make it very easy with consistent results on each wheel.

CBODY67

 

[Ambush]

Ok doesn't seem too daunting... I see a few designs of the measuring tool, but this on at Amazon seems to be the most used and popular for those like me on a tight budget. Would this be a good on to get? HERE

 

[Just Carbs]

The drum calipers are good for measuring the remaining usable metal of the drum before and after it's turned/machined.
They are also good for getting the shoe pre-adjustment close enough to avoid a lot of adjustment after the drum is installed. Then finish the adjustment by listening and feeling for dragging as you turn the drum. Adjust the shoes out until you barely hear or feel any dragging, then step on the brake pedal, repeat adjustment, then adjust them in until you can't tell whether or not you hear or feel any dragging.
So, your final adjustment will need to be done by feel and hearing.
Then let the self adjusters do the rest each time you brake in reverse gear when backing up.

 

[413]

When changing any parts in the drum brakes they need to be manually adjusted before driving. Driving and letting it "wear in" is a bad idea.

Yes definitely Back it off and make sure the bearings are set right first.

 

[Toolmanmike]

I haven't ever seen a temp spec for bearings and hubs so what it should be is just a guess. If one side is a lot hotter than the other
(there again, how much difference is up to you what would be considered excessive) one bearing might be tighter or one side the brakes are set up too tight causing the temp difference. Double check your adjustments and check for brake drag. When setting bearings I back off the shoes or the pads on disc brake cars so I can get a good feel for the bearing adjustment. Tighten the nut while spinning the hub, loosen and tighten again. Rinse and repeat. New bearings and races should be rechecked just in case a race didn't get driven in fully. I tighten to as close to zero lash as I can. If it's too loose you can feel it when you pull and push the drum or rotor. Almost a clunk noise. Tighten the nut 1 flat and try again. Make sure you can get the cotter key in and I like to run them on the loose side instead of tightening the nut tighter so the cotter key fits in the hole.

 

[Ambush]

Hey fellas. So I started to re-address the brake assembly and bearings etc... to try and get things properly set following many of the tips from this thread. Remember this is my first time working on this, so much is new to me. So I noticed to today that it appears I'm missing many little parts, hold-down, springs and linkages that should be on my brake backing plate. But before I panic and realize I've got to find these missing parts ...I want to show you what I see and have you guys tell if I'm missing parts or not. It may be that the parts I think I need only go on the back brakes and not the front, where I'm working. So here's the front pass side ( it's the same on the drivers front side too ) I see things missing am I right? IF so can you tell me where I can find a brake part kit that includes all the missing items I need. I found this, Drum brake shoe return spring, hold-down and self-adjuster package for the front or the rear all 1965-66 Plymouth Fury; all 1963-65 Dodge 880; all 1965-66 Dodge Monaco - Polara; all 1963-66 Chrysler and all 1963-66 Imperial
but you guys may have a better place to get a kit. I don't need all the parts in the kit, but I don't know where I can get just the parts I'm missing. Man I'm peeling the onion on this ...

 

[Just Carbs]

The brake adjuster parts you are missing are available at ROCKAUTO.
One kit for the springs and another for the rest.
About $20 total for parts and shipping.

 

[Ambush]

The brake adjuster parts you are missing are available at ROCKAUTO.
One kit for the springs and another for the rest.
About $20 total for parts and shipping.

Great ...better prices. I see there a Shoe Hold Down Kit, a Brake Hardware Kit, and a Self Adjuster Repair Kit ...This is new to me, but it I think I just need the hardware and self adjuster kits, and not the Hold Down kit ...do I have that right?

 

[Just Carbs]

Great ...better prices. I see there a Shoe Hold Down Kit, a Brake Hardware Kit, and a Self Adjuster Repair Kit ...This is new to me, but it I think I just need the hardware and self adjuster kits, and not the Hold Down kit ...do I have that right?

I don't know the age or condition of your existing hardware.

 

[Ambush]

I don't know the age or condition of your existing hardware.

I'll just cover all the bases, and have it in case I need it. Thanks

 

[Just Carbs]

I'll just cover all the bases, and have it in case I need it. Thanks

Would be nice to go ahead and replace everything brandy new.

 

[BigWally]

Dude, absolutely replace all that hardware with new! If for no other reason than peace of mind, plus you are gaining valuable experience.

 

[Milo]

Do not over tighten wheel bearings I tighten with a pair of channel lock pliers give the wheel a spin then check for tightness then back off a little bit and install cotter pin. I had a car come in that someone tightened with a impact wrench and it seized the bearing to the spindle also ruined the drum

 

[D Cluley]

I was dealing with a similar issue a few months ago. In addition to checking the hub temperature, reach under the front and check the temp of the rim of the brake drum itself. Dragging brakes will show up there much quicker than at the hub.

I didn't make notes of my hub temps, but my recollection is that they were in the neighborhood of 110 degrees.

8 AM edit

Just did a 20 mile drive that was a mix of city and freeway. Depending on where on the hub and which wheel, the temperature was between 90 and 104 degrees. The ends of the wheel studs were 85-90 and both brake drums were around 150 (measured right at the lip of the drum)

Air temp was 71 degrees